Does anyone know of a video showing spark plug replacement for the W-12?

 

I've just done mine it's a little awkward but take a day off to do it patiently.keep the manifold as one as the gasket in the middle is rediculous price whereas the one that deals the manifold is only a few pound from flying spares .I removed the pipes at the back and took it off as one then all you have to deal with is pipes to turbos and a few other small pipes .I replaced all coilpacks too .

 

There are multiple threads available here regarding spark plug renewal.
I've done it myself last August. Took me an afternoon, going slow.

Have fun,
christian

 

Thank you Rico, as always.

 

Is this the same for 2012?

 

It would also be desirable to remember another old post of this forum on the subject with a couple extra recommendations....

A gentle reminder, when pulling the spark plugs remember to blow out the recess. Accumulated debris down there can get into the cylinders when the plugs are removed. Also, if there is a lot of engine oil in the recess this is the time to replace the valve cover seals.
Add to it - don't pull plugs out of a hot aluminum engine, let cool down completely, albeit pretty difficult to get everything off that you need to remove and still have a hot motor...haha.
Also, torque plugs to spec, and DO NOT apply anything to the threads. Old school used to apply anti-seize to spark plugs going into alum heads, which completely changes the "clamping torque" (clamp force). Plug manufacturers, NGK being one, now apply a dry anti-seize in manufacturing so the installer doesn't need to muck with it anymore.
Use some dielectric grease on the rubber boot and O-ring of the coil (NOT needed on the conductor). This keeps the rubber from drying out and burning onto the cam cover housing.
tape over the manifold opening. Also make sure to put tennis ***** or something over the Turbo down tubes once the air filter assemlies are removed. Things like to fall down there and can be catastrophic to the turbochargers.

 

so I pulled the coil and seen this

 

Just grey alloy corrosion crap .
As others have said , use compressed air and a hover to Vac it away before removing the plug .

And tape up the induction pipes and turbo air in pipes first .

 

thanks but what I tried to show is there’s quite a bit of oil in this spark plug hole the oil is coming up halfway up the white part of the spark plug housing

 

Hello Douglas,
I take it that you did not understand John F's response in your own thread as to the oil in your spark plug hole, It is normal after time, the items John F and myself listed in your thread will help you with your oil leaking into spark plug tube.
Let's keep your issue to one thread so we are not repeating the same info.

Johnny