The valve cover leak is one thing, and you should fix it the proper way, BUT what concerns me more if I followed what you said correctly, the side with the oil leaks the plugs look great, but the other side has a lot of buildup, do you have any coolant issue or running hot, lean ?

 

No I only took out two plugs on only one side (Passenger). The one plug that looks like its GOOD come out of the spark canal that had oil build up maybe 2 Centimeters up the Porcelain part of the plug. The BAD looking plug with all the carbon on it didn't have any oil build up in the Canal. And no I have no coolant or running hot or lean issue.
This is only coming from a slight miss on the (Passenger) side of the car so I decided to pull the plugs to do a lookie lookie. All in the same decided to changed them since they were out. (Waiting for plugs to come in the mail.

 

So I decided to start to take out the other side of the engine plugs tonight and this is what I found. I’ve change many plugs in my day, this can’t be normal

 

It's plain and simple, you HAVE leaking valve cover seals as I showed in pictures in one of my previous post to you, besides the valve cover gasket that runs around the outer area of said valve cover, there are 6 seals on each valve cover to seal the oil from getting into the spark plug area, you must remove the valve covers to replace them.

 

ok thanks. Bad as I don’t wanna do it guess it’s a must do. The guy before said it’s not easy to do so I kinda of paused on it but again thanks

 

Also I don’t mine doing the job where can I find the torque specs for the spark plugs and other bolts and any advice needed for the valve cover job

 

Sadly the slight miss is still there after I got everything together. Guess I gotta just carry on with it I don’t know what else to do.

 

did you replace the coils? Something caused the plug to foul out, since the other plugs looked good.

 

No I didn’t change that one thing, I’ll order one and try that. The coil that, that plug was on is the new one out of the 12 which I didn’t understand

The other coils are original to the car
d

 

How long have you had the vehicle ?

It seems someone before you had the same issue and changed out just the one coil and possibly that same plug, how long have you had the slight misfire ?

Did you do both VC gaskets and the 12 spark plug seals ?

I do not get why people ( not you, the guy that replaced 1 coil) do such work, while the intake is off you would do all the plugs and all the coils, and for you at 70K miles I would be replacing all coils.

Johnny

 

i had it about two months and yes I did the VC replacement and spark plug seals. The car runs so silent that replacing all the coils is a draw back because the simple reason I don’t think there’s a reason other then the very slight miss on the passenger side

 

OK,
Can you do a scan on both engine ecu's to pinpoint which cylinder shows a misfire, I know you say no check engine light is on, so also look for pending fault codes, maybe someone else here can chime in as to the "pending fault codes" as I do not recall at this moment if the Ross-Tech actually shows pending faults, and not just logged hard or intermittent faults, sorry but I am a little slow in the head after a 40 straight no sleep job, beside the RT, and the VAS for my VAG cars, I have a cheap OBD2 dongle with the Torque app, and it shows pending codes on my S600 such as P0410 for SAI fault, then days or so later the check engine light will come on and the P0410 is now a hard fault.

I am not trying to scare you, but some things I would do, I know you just did this work, first try the scan to pinpoint the cylinder, next check the wiring and pins on said coil plug end, next, and you are not going to like it, but I would be pulling all the plugs to do a compression test on all cylinders, and note in case you did not know, all plugs must be removed all at once to perform a compression test, so the engine cranks over without any resistance, and the other would be to remove the valve cover or covers to check the rockers, a member on AW had a A8L W12 with low compression in one cylinder with a slight misfire, turned out to be a bad rocker arm, and yes the W12's do have rocker arms....

Johnny

...

 

Ok I’ll try the fault codes first before braking everything back down again 🤦🏽‍♂️ Which OBD code reader do you suggest so I can order it

 

I like the Ross-Tech, and as I write this I think as to the pending fault issue, the RT will show you a random misfire fault as a intermittent fault, so when it misfires enough times it will turn to a hard fault and turn on the check engine light, which brings me to this question, how did you come to believe to misfire to be on the passenger side, and are you saying it is misfiring all the time, if so, why is your check engine light not on, it goes to a number of misfires and sets the code, hence then a check engine light, also during a bad enough misfire the check engine light will flash, meaning to shut down the engine immediately, has it ever flashed, does it illuminate during bulb check when ignition is turned on ?

 

I believed it was in the passenger side because of it coming out of the passenger tail pipe. And with that I figured it was the spark plugs as we see now it wasn’t. Also Yes it has flashed one time after I left the gas station. I figured it was just something random because it never returned or stayed on long when it came on.