Hello members,

I have started to dismantle the engine today due to overheating problems after replacing water pump and coolant expansion cap without any success, today I tested the pressure using gauge and from 1-6 it reads 120-122 and 7,11 and 12 reads 120-121, while 8,9 and 10 read 90-92, so I have a confirmed gasket issue.
Being going to remove the engine out for this job, I want to ask what else to change ?
also any brand recommendations for the head gasket and rocker gasket ? I checked flying spur and oem is expensive from them.

 

Shaqovic,

What is the year of your automobile and does it have the plastic vacuum lines that run behind the engine to the top of the transmission? IF so, replace all of those with metal lines. I am about to have that done on my 2005 shortly. When I have the engine out, here is what I am having replaced since I believe all of these are either engine out repairs or much much easier to do with the engine out.
Oxygen Sensors
Starter
Alternator (or just the coolant rings)
Engine Drive Belt
Belt Pulleys and Belt Tensioner
I am replacing while is is out and these may not be necessary, but just to not have to mess with it again.
Check Motor Mounts
Radiator, water pump and thermostat
Compressor, condenser, and receiver/dryer and orifice/screen/expansion valve in line
Considering lower power steering hoses that deteriorate (I believe there are two that are an issue)

I am not sure, but the head gasket etc might be the same or cross over to the gaskets on a 6L VW Phaeton. You need to investigate that since I may be wrong if they cross. At least one of the parts I checked crossed. ( 07C103483C) By cross, meaning the identical part number was orderable from VW. I am assuming it is identical.

 

continuation of the problems you started in a thread almost year ago? still the same / correlated? remember white smoke issue...

 

Hello members,
follow up to this thread, my mechanic advised to try block sealer products before taking the engine out, as the crack might be minor and could be fixed temp with this seal
today we together went through the procedure as instructed by sealant manufacturer to disable targeted cylinders, in my case it was 8,9 and 10 on bank 2, removed fuse #2 and #25 in the engine fuse box.
we then removed the thermostats and installed an old non working thermostats, flushed the coolant out and filled it with clean water, burped the air out fully and poured the product, started the car for 1 hour running only on bank 1, coolant cap was off for 45 mins and it never boiled and temp on vcds never exceeded 84. After 45 mins idle drove the car for 10 kilo and let the car to cool down overnight as instructed. Tomorrow will flush the water and fill with red coolant from abro and burp the car very well then block combustion check it compared to all cylinders and test drive it.
will update this thread tomorrow.
My car is 2005 gt with only 69800 kilo
vcds only shows p0545 egt 1.
car drives good and only overheat after 3 mins idle after driving, as long as the car is idle from cold start it never overheat, must drive it and then when standby it starts to boil within minutes.
sorry for the long explanation and my bad English 😅

 

A follow up to this thread, I have been driving the car for a week now and I can tell you this liquid block sealer is magic 😎
the temp gauge is normal and live data vcds shows the thermostats opens at 101c and car temp never exceeded 103c on vcds
when driving the car it stays on 97c on vcds
the gauge is at normal position.
bleeding the car was a tough job to do.
every morning before I start the car I check the coolant level and when I open the cap air pressure comes out, is this be normal ?

 

Hello @Shaqovic ,
That is just a tad on the hot side, but depending on your local temperature, it may be correct.
I must say, your deactivation of the failing cylinders was key to making the sealant work, I am not sure that I have read that in the past, but it makes perfect sense, no combustion pressure to blow the sealant out while it is curing.

As to the pressure release in the morning, after cooling all night, are you sure that it is pressure, and not a vacuum, is the upper hose hard in the morning (cold), or soft, and easy to squeeze ?

Is it spitting out coolant in the morning when removing the cap cold ?

Johnny

 

@Johnny Hotspur GT - the same effect you can get by disconnecting coils from sparks? asking because i have other car with v8 engine I may want to seal it
@Shaqovic - what sealant you used - will try it if you have positive opinion

 

I agree, deactivating the targeted cylinders did help.
as to this procedure, it is writing on the bottle and also most videos I’ve watched instructed to do so.

regarding the pressure issue, it’s like opening a bottle of water which was thrown in the sun the whole day, maybe someone can drive his GT and try open the cap next day and revert.
on google some says it’s normal because of high pressure, and some claim it’s not normal.
I will double check the upper hose next time

 

I have used the product 3 times and each time I burp the car and flush and refill with tap water, each time used 2 bottles so in total 6 bottles were used then refilled with green coolant mixed 50:50

I did not test combustion after first 2 bottles, but my mechanic suggested a 3 times flush and refill with the sealant.

hope my thread would help

 

Two very simple ways to check if your still getting combustion pressure in the cooling system.
1. Nose / Sniff test. First thing in the morning or a cold start. Take off the filler cap and start the car. As it warms up have a good smell in the expansion battle.
If you smell any petrol odours, then you still have cylinder pressure getting into your cooling system.
2. Order a cylinder leak tester. Its a bottle of chemical thats changes from blue to urine yellow if any hydrocarbons are present in your cooling system.
In the uk ebay sells them for around £15.

 

Shaqovic,
You stated that you filled it with "green coolant", did you use the correct coolant since I thought what we are supposed to use in the Bentley W12 was purple/lavender?

 

@sazam ,
Unplug the coil's 4 wire connector from each coil you want to deactivate, do NOT pull the coil off of the spark plug and let it hang plugged in with power, that's a good way to burn out the coils.

Johnny

 

Thank you @Johnny Hotspur GT !

 

​​​​​​Hello @Mars911 ,
Depending on which site you read, the information is varied, most of what I have read claims that the green is ok in VAG vehicles, BUT, only after all of the G11, G12 or G13 has been thoroughly flushed out, which @Shaqovic has done here, BUT, there is talk of the green being bad for certain types of head gaskets, mainly being, that if all of the G12 was not completely removed, that the residual G12 would mix with the green, and create a corrosive mixture, that in turn would corrode/erode the head gasket.

@Shaqovic ,
I seriously hope that you flushed the heater cores out with fresh water, then distilled water, and that you had the heater cores turned off or blocked off while using the sealant three times, as, any sealer is very bad for any VAG heater core, or their pumps.

Johnny