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ENGINE OIL LEAK
So I have found and can smell oil on the Rh side . A small drip from the windage tray.
Will update on that when I get a proper look at it🤪
@Frank ( Sunnyside ) ,
As Sazam stated, verify if either fan is stuck, or, if you feel any resistance difference between the two, as the fault code is showing "difficulty of movement", meaning that it is seeing a higher than normal amperage draw on fan number 2, it could either be worn out and failing, or if sitting for some time, needs a little help to free up, during my rebuild, my original fans were a little tough to turn, I used my power washer on the fan blades to spin them up to very high speed, they spun very freely after that, although one developed a howl as seen in one of my videos.
@Frank ( Sunnyside ) ,
As Sazam stated, verify if either fan is stuck, or, if you feel any resistance difference between the two, as the fault code is showing "difficulty of movement", meaning that it is seeing a higher than normal amperage draw on fan number 2, it could either be worn out and failing, or if sitting for some time, needs a little help to free up, during my rebuild, my original fans were a little tough to turn, I used my power washer on the fan blades to spin them up to very high speed, they spun very freely after that, although one developed a howl as seen in one of my videos.
Johnny
Can the fans be easily accessed without removing the cooling pack?
Yes, with a few swear 🤬 words, and some cut up hands...
I did mine after the vehicle was completely back together.
Johnny
.
You got all that out through that tight gap....well done. Now I know it can be done.
First is to fix the suspension just to say I have done it.
Then tear it all off the car and fit coil overs. That will be one headache permanently put to bed.
Thanks Johnny.
Ps It's going to be a slow process. So I will post and update as I find more faults or fingers crossed fixed them and how.
LEFT SIDE REAR WINDOW
The left rear window wiggles about and seems loose. It doesn't seal at all.
I belive there has been water ingress and iirc all the Air Suspension Modules are behind the panel. So at some point I will have a look at both the window mechanism and the control module. I now can get Jack Mode and its in it. I will full Jack the car right off the road and go from there?
So after reading the IETIS manual it seems 2 special tools are required to align the regulator and glass.
WT 10176 and VAG1739
Has any one got any more info on these 2 items??
The problem I have with VAS Pc is its on in ancient pc. Windows XP and isn't compatible with my other devices. So saving and reading the work log file on the vaspc is easy. Transferring to somethin more modern that can read that file is giving me a headache.
I have ODIS as well so will run ths. Its on a Windows 11 pc. So saved work logs should be easier. The problem ( isn't there always ) is ODIS is not easy to use. So I'm still getting used to it. I did briefly pot ODIS on and it did connect OK however the darn thing tells me No Iggnition Key found. Which is crazy as it found all the control modules??
Another job to do. Ha Ho...
@Frank ( Sunnyside )
My ODIS VAS 5054 shows the same message as to the key, yet, it reads the VIN and all modules, odd...
So after reading the IETIS manual it seems 2 special tools are required to align the regulator and glass.
WT 10176 and VAG1739
Has any one got any more info on these 2 items??
@Frank ( Sunnyside ) ,
I am not so sure that your issue is any adjustment of the window, or any special tools needed, it is more likely that you either have bad cable twisted up because of broken guide wheels, or that the little white plastic pieces that guide the silver rectangular glass mounting piece are broken, you can see in my pictures the pink arrow pointing to a good one, but the pink square shows broken and missing, this is what allows the glass to rock front to back.
Be aware, each side has a different part number for the complete regulator, as shown in my pictures.
Johnny
.
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; Nov 11, 2024 at 08:49 AM.
Reason: Spelling
@Frank ( Sunnyside ) ,
I am not so sure that your issue is any adjustment of the window, or any special tools needed, it is more likely that you either have bad cable twisted up because of broken guide wheels, or that the little white plastic pieces that guide the silver rectangular glass mounting piece are broken, you can see in my pictures the pink arrow pointing to a good one, but the pink square shows broken and missing, this is what allows the glass to rock front to back.
Be aware, it side has a different part number for the complete regulator, as shown in my pictures.
Johnny
.
That makes visual more sense. Thanks Johnny.
That and access to the air suspension ecu is todays job.....I hope.
We gave Guests in the B&B for the next few days. I will try and get the rear quarter panel off then move on from there time willing.
Hmm, I was 100% sure the system just looks at the level sensors. If they are out of range then system wont start.
You need to make sure the car will be leveled to a range where sensors are telling the system that they are in range.
Otherwise the system will not run.
If you have the levels in range and system is not starting then indeed maybe the other measure is the air reservoir and if it is out of range system wont run too but this would be strange - the air reservoir can be empty so this should not be a blocker for system to be triggered.
AIR SUSPENSION UPDATE
Gained accessed the Air Suspension control module. Found one plug not correctly seated which means some one else has been playing with it before me.
Locked the connector down with the slide locks and put vas diagnostics on.
Could now readout module coding which came back as good . So went through vas to fill reservoir tank ( bit sketchy....went to 16.5 bar so I stopped the fill test. Seems a bit high??)
Then told the module to calibrate the 4 corners which to my utter surprise it did. All the time I kept the car on the wooden blocks and Jack's to fool it that the levels were nearenough to start the alignment. Been thought a few raise and lower cycles. Now left the car on raise overnight and measured the hight to see if the air will leak. I suspect that was the problem all along at the show room. Lost air while closed on holiday and the battery went flat. Not knowing the correct procedure he screwed everything up.
Which is my next post. Another faulty module.
Last edited by Frank ( Sunnyside ); Nov 9, 2024 at 12:47 PM.
BATTERY MONITORING CONTROL J367 AND BATTERY ENERGY CONTROL MODULE A
Two main faults coming up in lot of module fault readouts are the above.
Going to have to locate these modules.
This sound very suspiciously like damage caused by the show room booster charging the battery.
Not sure the full function of both modules so going to do some research. If any one knows more about them please chip in and let me know.
Vas can not find the battery management module? It doesn't seem to be present.
Strongly putting on as many electrical items I could find, the battery ( which has been fully depleted and boost charged) was still around 12.5 to 13 volts. So I belive it still could be charging??
Last edited by Frank ( Sunnyside ); Nov 9, 2024 at 12:23 PM.
Hello @Frank ( Sunnyside ) ,
I wouldn't worry to much about the 16.5, it was probably ready to shut off any second, I have had between 15.95 and 16.3 bar, no issues.
As to the battery control module, it is behind the house (left) battery, I would check both connections on it as it show no signal.
Hello @Frank ( Sunnyside ) ,
I wouldn't worry to much about the 16.5, it was probably ready to shut off any second, I have had between 15.95 and 16.3 bar, no issues.
As to the battery control module, it is behind the house (left) battery, I would check both connections on it as it show no signal.
You got all that out through that tight gap....well done. Now I know it can be done.
