It's time - front tires wearing on inners.

Any suggestions on best price sources?

Scuderia has a complete kit for around $750, but after taxes, and shipping it ends up over $2000.

For a 2009 Continental GT W12.

Thanks as always!

 

If the ball joints are in good order there is no need to change the full arm. The rubber bushings can be changed out with standard ones or upgraded to polyurethane bushings. A bit more work but substantially cheaper especially if you can do it yourself.
Regards Chris

 

Thanks Chris - I'll pass that along to my tech. I used to do this type of stuff myself, but that has changed over the years.

Any other recommendations for Control Arms - they may be less expensive overall than the parts and labour to swap out all the bushings.

 

Looks like I may be striking out on this one.

 

If it's because of perceived availability of Bentley-specific PU upgrade bushings, remember that the control arm bushings are identical to D3 generation Audi S8. I've installed a few of them lately, a perfect fit.

 

You can ose the A8 bottom arm's the alloy one's but you have to drill out the anti roll bar from 10mm to 11mm
The Bentley is cast and beefier

 

Yes, I'm inclined to agree that just replacing the bushings is the way to go.

Do you have a source for Polyurethane replacement bushings? The set at Flying Spares appear to be the original rubber type.

Much thanks.

 

Yes, I'm inclined to agree that just replacing the bushings is the way to go.

Do you have a source for Polyurethane replacement bushings? The set at Flying Spares appear to be the original rubber type.

Much thanks.

 

The vast majority of replacement bushings are of OEM rubber type, replacement and not an upgrade.

I've used Strongflex bushings in a number of applications, https://www.strongflex.eu . They're dimensionally accurate, well-priced and available in 80 and 90 shore hardness depending on your preference and intended use. I've chosen 90 (the "sport" or "A" option), mainly because the FS is heavy, bushings are relatively large in diameter and I rather trade some NVH for improved tracking and precision. The non-sport 80 ShA kit is probably a better choice for most, they're still a solid step up from OEM rubber with improved control characteristics.

 

OK, thank you.

 

Just to close out this thread -

I purchased the OEM bushing kit from Flying Spares for around $450 US. The shop replaced the control arm bushings, and did a 4-wheel alignment.

Total bill was $1200 shop labour plus the bushing kit, versus the other shop that wanted to replace the complete control arm assemblies at a total repair cost of $5400 US.

My car now handles like a new vehicle. The improvement is remarkable.

 

I'd have gone with rubber too. While PU might sharpen up the handling a bit, I find they often make the car feel too "jiggly".

 

If anything, PU increases the felt vibrations through the steering wheel and suspension slightly. And sharpens up the feel, stability and response a whole lot. Mine feels like a proverbial bullet train after the upgrade, ultra stabile on highway and precise and planted in corners. Not unlike Supersports, much of the same feel has materialized when flex and slack is off the table and the dynamic wheel alignment isn't nowhere near as much subject to lateral forces as before. A typical result, I'd say. We've done quite a few PU upgrades over the years and the Flying Spur is among the best in terms of precision and stability.

Another project we had, a Volvo V50 (T5, AWD, 6-speed manual), resulted in a massive transformation. It shares its P1 platform and suspension geometry with the notoriously great handling C1 "ASBO" Ford Focus ST mk.2 and once the slack was taken out, it can comfortably hang with well-driven Porsches in the twisties. Ok, combined with Bilstein B6/B8, Penta Stage 3 Comp remap and Frankenbrakes brake upgrade, but still. PU bushings combined with a good geometry and alignment are a performance superpower.

 

I concur. These are GT cars - Grand Tourers, not high spirited sports cars. Enjoy the ride.

 

@Randy V ,
Just a quick question, when changing just the bushings in the upper and lower control arms, was / is there a way to determine just how worn the ball joints are, meaning, you go through the cost and labor of replacement of bushings, but may end up with a worn ball joint a short time later, and as the ball joints are not serviceable, the complete control arm goes into the trash, so how did you determine that the ball joints/control arms were worthy of not replacing ?


Johnny