Hi
Very familiar with 911 brakes, is the 09 cayenne s similar? Any DIY stickies?
TIA
c

 

I changed the pads and sensors on my '04 CTT a few months ago. Fairly easy job. Would think it's similar, but not sure. One thing I would suggest is to replace the sensors. I think 3 of the 4 broke when I tried removing them (planned on replacing anyway). And be sure to get brake grease...shouls be similar to your 911, but haven't changes the pads on my 911 yet (soon).

Mickey

 

X2 on the sensors. Mine all broke when I tried to re-use them. I think that is intentional. I actually stopped using the sensors. I don't know if any of u have also noticed this but they come on way too early. There is still 30-40% of pad on there when they go off. No wonder our cars go through brakes so fast...we only use 60% of the pad! I just check mine the old fashioned way now and have tied to sensors back as to not cause an error light.
As for changing the brakes, they are close to the easiest pads you'll ever change. 1 retainer clip and 1 bolt. You don't need to take the caliper off...it's a beautiful design. Of course rotor removal is more work but jus pads is super easy front and rear. There should be a diy if u search.

 

I just changed my pads and rotors on all four corners. Overall, it wasn't that difficult and will gladly post the steps I took. The only big thing right now is that I'm not getting enough pressure when I step on the brake pedal - going all the way to the floor before I stop - seems a lot softer. I checked all for wheels and no brake fluid leaking that I can see. The master cylinder is showing full - filled with Dot 4 fuild (Prestone - because that's what I had on hand at the time).

Anyone have any ideas on what it could be?

 

If you just changed the pads the volume should have been low in the master cylinder before changing the pads (typically the level will return to the full mark once the new pads are installed). Did you open the lines at all? You have air in the system and need to bleed the brakes. I wouldn't recommend driving it until this is performed (safety hazard). If you have never bled the brakes pm me and I will give you details on how to do it properly.

Troy

 

Troy: Yes, I opened the lines when I removed the calipers to clean them off and remove the rotors. What you're saying totally makes sense. Can you PM me the instructions how to bleed and if it's a one man job? I've been driving around on them after topping it off - I can stop, but it makes me nervous sicne I have to step down so far.

I can't send PM's yet since I don't have enough posts...

thanks in advance.

 

IMHO..
Never open the line/s..unless your changing the fluid..

 

Pm sent to you, park that thing until you bleed the system.

 

Where can I find the DIY for the brakes?

 

BTW..bleed the one farthest from the reservoir first..KOEO

 

Thanks for the tip - but can you still get the caliper off to change the rotor? (or can you do it while leaving the caliper on there?

 

Thanks, got the msg. I think I'm gonna just take it into the shop tomorrow - non-dealer, but Porsche specialist shop willing to do a brake flush for $110 with OEM fluid. Figure it's already going to cost me $60 in fluid to do the bleed and I need to call a buddy over for it.

I've been driving around on it - definitely not the safest but late at night I did a couple of hard test brakes on a back road from 80mph -> 0, etc... and the car did okay. so I should make it to the dealer. Thanks for everything though.

btw, one more thing - on the rear rotors - there is an extra hole for a screw/plug. The new rotors had a hole, but no screw, old rotors couldn't get them out to replace (is it a hex or something?) do I need to move that over or what? I left them off since it wasn't holding anything together, but in hindsight, I'm thinking that the plug helped to keep the rotor balanced.

 

Here are the instructions that I used - disclaimer, as you can see, I still don't have brake pressure (although it's likely because I didn't bleed my brakes yet), but these are the steps I took as I remember them.

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...e-cayenne.html

and for the rotors I used these:

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/

For just the pads, it was really easy.

1) Loosen lug nuts on wheel we're working on
2) Place blocks behind wheels that you're not working on so it doesn't roll away.
3) Raise tire off ground with jack
4) Remove tire.
5) If working on front tire, insert key and turn steering wheel towards the wheel being worked on all the way so you have the most room to work with.
6) Unscrew bolt to the retaining pin. (I think 12mm socket)
7) Using a Philips screwdriver and a hammer, gently pound out the retaining bolt. I used the screwdriver to help guide it through the holes once I got to the clip section.
8) Find the sensor wire and follow it back to the inner side of the caliper where it clips in and unclip it. (may need a flat head screwdriver to push the latch)
9) Loosen the brake pads by taking a wrench and sticking it between the two round metal balancers at the top and bottom of the brake pads and prying them apart as far as I could. (They look like metal Rolos ~1cm thick) (assuming OEM pads) No need to brake spreaders or anything.
10) once the top and bottom are separated from the rotor, I was able to easily remove the brake pads, clip, and sensors as a set.
11) Put new pads in - you may need to wiggle them a bit if the pistons weren't fully compressed. I put some Brake Grease/desqueek on the backs of the new pads before putting them in as I had a lot of squeeling/ringing coming from my brakes before - hoping this will help. I'm assuming it was from these pads rattling at low speeds.
12) Put metal clip/holder in place.
13) Put the retaining bolt back in place - will need a hammer and use the philips screwdriver from the opposite side to help guide the bolt back in along the right path. It helps to have someone help push the metal clip in.
14) Screw the retaining bolt screw into the retaining bolt - use threadlocker if you have it. I bought new ones which come with it on it. Not sure how hard to torque it.
15) Push the new sensors in using the tips of needlenose pliers.
16) Insert key and turn the wheel back to straight
17) Put the wheel back on, tighten bolts in a star pattern as hand tight as I can.
18) lower the car back down and then torque the lug nuts to spec. (120 ft lbs?)

If you're also changing rotors - here's what I did:

Between steps 10 and 11:

a) Front rotors (using a 21mm socket & breaker bar) removed the two bolts behind the caliper holding it in.
b) Unscrew the brake line attached to the caliper (this is questionable - I couldn't figure out any other way to do it though - folks free free to chime in)
c) remove caliper
d) compress the pistons so that it's easier to put the new pads in. since the caliper is already out, I just used the old brake pad and a C clamp, but to be honest, you probably could avoid the C clamp and just do it manually since nothing's connected - watch out for squirting brake fluid.
e) remove the rotor - there's only one bolt holding it in - it's a Torx 50. Impact wrench will help here.
f) Replace new rotor and bolt it on. My buddy said to wash the new rotor w/soap and brake cleaner before putting it on - so we did... something about an anti-rust coating. myth?
g) Replace caliper - those two bolts and the brake line.
h) go to step 11) above and then at the end, my personal lesson - DON'T FORGET TO BLEED YOUR BRAKES before your friend leaves.

The dealer said that they usually use 2 liters of brake fluid when replacing brakes/rotors - so make sure you have this on hand or else you're hosed (like I was).

For the Rear rotors, it's a little harder to reach and there are a few differences.

a) to remove the caliper, first I recommend removing the 13mm screw that secures the brake line to the caliper. (not the actual nut holding the brake line) This will give you more room to work with. You can see it in the middle of the back.
b) Remove brake line (again arguable - welcome feedback)
c) Remove big caliper bolts - you'll need a 16mm triple square hex. I had no idea what the heck that was and nobody had one in town, so I just used a 1/2" hex bit socket from Harbor Freight (only store open at 9pm and the set was $13) with a breaker bar (also from Harbor Freight $3.77 clearance) - this is awkward don't hurt yourself or push so hard the car knocks off the jack stand - BAD.
d) you should now be able to remove the caliper and follow on with step d above. When replacing the caliper, work backwards.

Hope that helps and welcome comments.

 

Sounds like a good idea taking it in for a flush (make sure to let them know that the brakes weren't bled just in case someone pulls a fast one and doesn't do a complete flush like it should be done.

Your old rotor has a screw but is not holding anything together? Only screw that I have ever seen on a rotor usually secures the rotor to the hub assembly and has to be removed to do a rotor swap. A picture would be very handy to see what you are referring to.