click-click, click-click silence!
#1
click-click, click-click silence!
I'll try and keep this as short as I can. Bought a Cayenne S 2005 2 months ago since then it has been back and forth to the garage due to an issue with the central locking clicking both when driven and parked. Nothing showing up on Diagnostics. The garage have replaced offside door catch and tested solenoids but did not resolve the problem. The car went back for another week with no avail. So I got the car back with the click still present. Now a few weeks on the clicking has suddenly stopped. Great I thought until I visited the fuel station where now the button for the fuel cap won't work or the button for the trunk. Therefore I've got a feeling this is where my problem with the Central locking is. I removed both switchs from the door panel and there is no obvious damage. I then refitted the fuel cap switch and a soon as the switch was connected (not pushed) the cap popped open. I closed the fuel flap again but pushing the switch did not work until it was disconnected and reconnected. This did not work for the trunk. I have also tried swaping the switches as they are both the same but this does not have the same affect.
I have ordered some new switches but I'm not so sure the switchs are the problem.
Can anyone help? Haven't seen anything similar on here.
The Wing mirrors have also stopped working but I'm not sure if this is related. Does any one know the fuse number for these as I can't see them in the book?
Hope someone can help, thanks in advance.
Jon
I have ordered some new switches but I'm not so sure the switchs are the problem.
Can anyone help? Haven't seen anything similar on here.
The Wing mirrors have also stopped working but I'm not sure if this is related. Does any one know the fuse number for these as I can't see them in the book?
Hope someone can help, thanks in advance.
Jon
#2
Is your Cayenne a dual battery Cayenne? One under the drivers seat and one extra under the rear cargo floor?
If it is this may be your issue. The rear battery is ONLY used to start the car and the battery under the seat is ONLY used for the power accessories. Its possible for the battery under the seat to die and now know it. (since the car still starts fine off the other battery). Screwy things happen when the accessories are not getting their full power.
If you have the "keyless entry and drive" option you can kinda test it. The car will start off the rear battery with the dummy key in the ignition and will start off the underseat battery with the real key in the ignition.
If it is this may be your issue. The rear battery is ONLY used to start the car and the battery under the seat is ONLY used for the power accessories. Its possible for the battery under the seat to die and now know it. (since the car still starts fine off the other battery). Screwy things happen when the accessories are not getting their full power.
If you have the "keyless entry and drive" option you can kinda test it. The car will start off the rear battery with the dummy key in the ignition and will start off the underseat battery with the real key in the ignition.
#3
Cole,
thanks for your reply. Found the second battery after your post yesterday. I flipped the seat and tested it. I'm getting 12v when the vehicle is not running and 14v when it is so I'm guessing this is ok. I also found some money so it was all worth while
As the wing mirrors have also stopped working I'm wondering if the switches and the mirrors share a common feed? Anyone have any wiring diagrams? I should probably add I'm in the UK so the diagrams may differ.
Thanks again
thanks for your reply. Found the second battery after your post yesterday. I flipped the seat and tested it. I'm getting 12v when the vehicle is not running and 14v when it is so I'm guessing this is ok. I also found some money so it was all worth while
As the wing mirrors have also stopped working I'm wondering if the switches and the mirrors share a common feed? Anyone have any wiring diagrams? I should probably add I'm in the UK so the diagrams may differ.
Thanks again
#4
Ok spotted yesterday that the clock has drifted 5 minutes in 1 week so it does look like there may be a power issue there. This may seem like a simple question but if the battery is showing 12v with a volt meter does this mean the battery is good or is there something else I should be considering i.e Amp/hr etc. and in this case how should I be testing it
Thanks again
Thanks again
#5
12V really doesn't mean much (and is actually rather low - you should be seing 12.6V). What counts is a load test - measuring the voltage on the battery and how quickly it drops when subject to a load. Most big box auto stores will do this test for you for free if you drag the battery in to them.
#6
Its actually the reverse of this. With KESSY the dummy key uses the main battery and the real key uses the auxiliary battery when starting. TSB 2706 refers.
#7
Would hardly even click with the real key. Replaced e battery under the seat and it cured everything.
Trending Topics
#10
Yeah, i noticed its like that in the owners manual as well.
Seems that the aux battery is never used with Kessy and the dummy key in play.
It's only used for starting ops if the main key is used.
Kind of makes sense I suppose if you consider the main key would be used only if the KESSY unit failed or the main battery failed which would inop the KESSY as well.
Seems that the aux battery is never used with Kessy and the dummy key in play.
It's only used for starting ops if the main key is used.
Kind of makes sense I suppose if you consider the main key would be used only if the KESSY unit failed or the main battery failed which would inop the KESSY as well.
Last edited by Bigbuzuki; 06-27-2011 at 07:45 AM.