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I had my barb blow out a few months ago and tried repairing it by using JB weld to glue it back in but, that is now leaking after 3 months. I am now replacing the coolant distributor with the new threaded barb version. I have unbolted the old distributor and am now trying to figure out how to remove it. Is removing the fuel pump going to provide enough clearance or is there anything else I need to take off to get the distributor out? Is that cam stopper part something that will be needed if removing the fuel pump? I did not see that part and have only ordered the fuel pump o-ring.
I had my barb blow out a few months ago and tried repairing it by using JB weld to glue it back in but, that is now leaking after 3 months. I am now replacing the coolant distributor with the new threaded barb version. I have unbolted the old distributor and am now trying to figure out how to remove it. Is removing the fuel pump going to provide enough clearance or is there anything else I need to take off to get the distributor out? Is that cam stopper part something that will be needed if removing the fuel pump? I did not see that part and have only ordered the fuel pump o-ring.
Did you have any luck getting the old dist manifold out? Where did you purchase the new threaded unit?
Did you have any luck getting the old dist manifold out? Where did you purchase the new threaded unit?
I was able to get the manifold out with just removing the high pressure fuel pump. I have everything back together now and running. I am hoping I didn't miss anything and it doesn't start leaking somewhere. I took the lower 4 bolts out from underneath the car. A flex extension was helpful here. But, it was much easier to reach the bolts from above when installing them after the fuel pump was out. To remove the fuel pump you will need 10mm, 13mm, and 17mm wrenches. maybe a 14 also for fuel rail.
You will also need 2 coolant distributor gaskets - part no: 94810615401
And then I got 8 new screws just to be safe: 90038507201
The fuel pump O-ring should be part: 99970758141
Intake Manifold gaskets 8 needed: 948-110-146-01-M100
If you are doing the whole coolant pipe upgrade then some additional parts will be needed.
Updated aluminum coolant pipe: 948-106-069-10-OEM (Updated)
Aluminum thermostat socket - ECS part: ES#2771205
Thermostat gasket: 94810612402
Water pump housing sealing ring gasket: 94810653300
Not necessary but I replaced this hose as well: 95510632310
Will need some silicone synthetic grease on orings of coolant pipe. I used a small amount on inside of new hoses as well to get them on easily.
Good luck. PM me if you need parts manual or other assistance.
Thanks a lot for the reply, good to know! I checked my v6 cayenne consumes about 50mL coolant fluid over 1500 miles and it got some white exhaust smoke from two tailpipes at stop. Is that related to the issues discussed here?
Thanks a lot for the reply, good to know! I checked my v6 cayenne consumes about 50mL coolant fluid over 1500 miles and it got some white exhaust smoke from two tailpipes at stop. Is that related to the issues discussed here?
That sounds more like a blown head gasket. I believe you need to do a leakdown test to check for that.
That really makes me sweat in my air-conditioned office. I just checked: both oil and coolant caps are clean and normal. I didn't find oil or milk on top of coolant reservoir either, no engine check light either...
Perhaps I should be commenting on a different thread since this is a little old but my 2008 S popped today. Confirmed the barb came out of the distribution tube. Fortunately it didn't happen when I drove to Ohio two weeks ago. Man, that would have been a bummer. Anyway, I have parts ordered and will start dropping the transmission and transfer case tomorrow....or over the weekend. I'm headed to NHTSA to leave a nice note.
Still love the vehicle and will shop for a Porsche after the wife's new what ever she decides to get is paid off.
Perhaps I should be commenting on a different thread since this is a little old but my 2008 S popped today. Confirmed the barb came out of the distribution tube. Fortunately it didn't happen when I drove to Ohio two weeks ago. Man, that would have been a bummer. Anyway, I have parts ordered and will start dropping the transmission and transfer case tomorrow....or over the weekend. I'm headed to NHTSA to leave a nice note.
Still love the vehicle and will shop for a Porsche after the wife's new what ever she decides to get is paid off.
In addition to the NHTSA, find the class action lawsuit thread on Rennlist about glued in coolant fittings coming out and creating a safety hazard and contact the representing attorney with your case. I provided them some details about the glued I rear water bridge fittings in Cayennes coming apart and in any cars where they've epoxied the fittings in, included Mezger motor GT cars. I suggested they expand the "class* of the lawsuit to include any Porsche model with epoxied fittings as it seems they will all eventually fail and to have the repair done by a dealership, they pull the motor, which is thousands of dollars.
There are folks more educated on 955 recalls than I am but there are no recalls for the distribution pipe issue for 957 and with high confidence 955. I replaced mine with the updated part number with the threaded barb. It was a bear but it's done and I am up and running.
So there are two main categories of OEM related service on their dime. Recalls are for safety related issues, brakes, fuel, seat belts, air bag sometimes transmission cables etc, then there are campaigns which are non safety related issues such as defective intake manifolds, transmission coolers etc. Then there are cases where dealers or regional managers rather that will help you out if you are a avid customer.
There are articles here specific to 955s and the issues you will run into. If you are a wrench, I say BUY it or shop for a 957 which has many of the 955 issues resolved. If you can't wrench you will need a deep pockets for the up keep. I think there are issues with front suspension bushing issues, cooling pipes, maybe fuel pumps.....need to look it up. Just take the time, the info is here.
Last note, the Cayenne is a great way be to introduced into Porsche genetics and what I say is "proper" in regards to steering feel, brake feel and suspension. Mine has adjustable coil overs so I have dialed it in better than OEM damping but the handling of a 5500 lb vehicle almost defies the law of physics. Plus I tow a 20ft boat with mine.
ONE MORE THING, So my advice is research repairs here, get estimates on those repairs, how much can you set aside each month for maintenance, drive several before buying and if you don't have service records go back to the beginning of my sentence. It's not a 4runner but you could possibly lap a 4runner at any track!
There are still many threads popping up with people trying to find the source of coolant leaks so I wanted to add this one to the list of things to look for:
On the 8th Jan 2017 the temp in Atlanta got down to 15degF. Colder than usual.
I noticed a disturbing pool of coolant on the garage floor about a foot and a half inside the right front wheel of the Cayenne.
I had this sinking feeling that maybe my fix had failed (even though the pool was on the opposite side of the vehicle) or that somehow the aluminum T or pipes had somehow developed a leak.
After inspection with a scope I was able to confirm that there was nothing wrong with either of these areas. I then also checked the expansion tank for cracks as well as the overflow and found nothing.
After a lot of searching I spotted the source of the slow drip as shown in the pic below (borrowed a pic from RenaissanceMan to illustrate location).
The low temperature must have contracted certain parts just enough (and possibly in combination with bolts which were incorrectly torqued or loosened over time) to allow the location where the water distributor joins the block to seep some coolant.
With a long socket extension and some elbow connectors (going in from below) I was able to tighten the 2 bolts shown in the pic. The left bolt was definitely not as tight as the one on the right and I got about a 1/3 turn on it with minimal effort. The right side bolt only turned about a 1/8 turn at most.
I used very little effort because 1 - the difficulty in getting to the bolt with the elbow connectors and, 2 - size of the head didn't allow for much grip from that angle, and 3 - I did not want to risk over torquing. Problem solved immediately and no issues in the 2 weeks since.
Finally I think I found someone else who may have had the same issue I have, although will find out for sure this weekend. Picked up my '10 GTS about a year and a half ago. The previous owner had some issues with oil leaks so the dealer performed a engine out service to correct things before I purchased it. Shortly thereafter I began noticing an occasional smell of burned coolant on driver's side so kept an eye on the reservoir which only went down a tiny bit every 500 miles or so. I stuck an endoscope up under there and found where coolant was dripping on top of the exhaust manifold and can see where it is leaking from, just was having a hard time identifying exactly what I was looking at, but it appears to be possibly from the same connection you described here. I am wondering if when it was last serviced if that connection was fully tightened. Now in the last couple of months it is slowly leaking more and more so can't wait any longer, going to try and get up under there tomorrow and see if I can tighten these down. Here is a photo of where it appears to be coming from which I believe is looking at the side/backside of that connection from the photo above. I sure hope that is it. If not, either need to repair myself or bite the bullet and take to the mechanic.
Follow up. So got under there yesterday and to my surprise, the leak I was having now isn’t anywhere on the water distributor. This leak was coming through the tranny bell housing holes so got the endoscope and stuck it under the intake and bingo, coolant sitting in the valley.
While checking out the water distributor, it appears it was already previously replaced with the threaded in barb fitting. Good news.
Took the intake off and both of the coolant vent lines were leaking, and when I touched one of them, the plastic was so brittle it snapped right off. Can replace them without removing fuel lines but going to take them out anyways so I can clean the coolant crust out of the valley. Threaded barb fitting on water distributor Broken coolant vent line
This is the area that I will be working in (transmission fully removed).. you can fully see the water distributor from the back:
I don't see it covered anywhere in this thread, so thought I'd ask if anyone has any experience changing the AS Coolant Pipe (94810602253) that runs from the passenger side of the rear water distributor up along the passenger side of the engine block to the engine oil cooler at the front of the engine? I'm pretty sure my issue is that the o-ring on the pipe that inserts into the water distributor is faulty but it's super tight in there to try even get at it. My independent shop is telling me this is an engine out job... which I'm quite frankly not willing to accept.
I circled the pipe in question in red on the picture that was posted by Renaissance.Man in one of his initial posts...
11-13-2017, 09:16 AM
that maybe my fix had failed (even though the pool was on the opposite side of the vehicle) or that somehow the aluminum T or pipes had somehow developed a leak.
