My CR pooped out on me again right in the middle of a wash. Now my car is peppered with hard water spots.
I tried white vinegar, IPA, QD. Nothing. I know polishing is the best/most effective way of removing these, but I JUST did a 2 step polish 2 weeks ago. For the sake of the paint and my own sanity, I don't want to polish again so soon.

Any products that people have used that are effective and simple to use (i.e. not two or 3 steps)?

 

Didn't this happen to you before? You could probably do a 1-stage with Menzerna Super Finish or Power Finish. Do you have those polishes. A white pad should be perfect.

What was the reading on the CR? How hard is your water and how many washes did you get?

 

Sort of. This time, I knew the TDS reading was elevated, but it was only about 17. Thought I could get one more wash out of it....
I have Super Finish. But was hoping there was something I could just apply and wipe off without having to polish again.
Water is VERY hard (don't know the exact PPM). Probably get 10 washes per resin refill (DIC-20), if I'm lucky.

 

It takes a while for the resin to hit 002-005 ppm. Once it does, it quickly rises. So if you started at 17, chances are, you may have ended at 50-75. Did you check to see what the reading was?

You can try using einszett Paint Polish by hand...that usually does the trick for me.

http://www.glisteningperfectionstore...00mL%2C/Detail

 

If you were only at 50-75, I doubt it is hard enough to etch. Were you using softened water through the deionizer? If so, try washing the car again with new cartridges. Foam the car and let it sit (out of sun light.) Then spray it off again. In my experience (I have 550-600 ppm hard water) I go through resin at 3-4 times a year. I usually don't change it until PPMs hit 40-50 (I blow dry my car.) Even then, the spots are pretty easy to remove. I've experienced etching once...as long as the PPM isn't excessive (>100) you should be fine with some elbow grease.

If you find yourself needing polish, since the spots are not etched, use something super light (PO85RD) and a light pad (white or blue.)

- bob

 

Using 85RD by hand is a little tough on darker colored cars. The polish dries up too fast if used by hand an a mf pad. ALL of menzerna's polishes were designed to be used by hand. This obviously doesn't mean you cannot use it by hand. But to get the absolute best finish utilizing the polish's strength, it should be used with a machine.

With that said, I'm not sure what reading you had once you were finished rinsing, bonehead. Like bob said, even at 30-50 ppm, the spots should still come out with a light paint cleanser or even detail spray. I'd still say use the einszett paint polish. It is much more user-friendly than 85RD if used by hand and mf pad.

 

Well, I just changed the resin again on my DIC-20. This time I remembered to run the tap through the empty canisters to get a TDS reading.......581

How many cubic feet of resin are in the DIC-20 units?

 

Just measured my water, 211ppm.

 

I hate you

 

rubbing alchohol is best remove lot of thing,or some 3m product, when u clean any spot more like picking n wipe with a cloth

 

LOL...Ed, what's your water like (ppm)?

- bob

 

See post above. TDS read 581. Dunno what that translates into ppm??

 

That is in ppm, which is terrible. My handheld TDS meter I have says "500+ U.S. EPA's max contaminant level."

 

That is PPM reading. That's on the higher side which might explain why you go through a lot of resin. You probably already know this, but use your promo code here on 6speed when you order resin from us and pick up the r6-20. It's 1 cu/ft of resin. The dic-20 takes .33 cu/ft of resin. So the r6-20 will change the system 3 times. Another great feature of getting the bagged resin is how fresh it is. It's vacuum sealed.

 

You and I are in the same boat...550-600s sometimes. A lot of limestone in my area and magnesium.