How is the best and most efficient way to apply this special wax?

I have no problem melting in on my palm but spreading it by fingers and wipe off right-a-way is going take a whole day to wax my small Porsche. Is there any better way to do this? Also, it seems like it's difficult to get an even coating just by fingers.

TIA for any help.

 

Try a yellow pad (checker auto or O'Rielly's if your in a time jam and can't order online: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1648&ppt=C0209). Don't load the pad too heavy.

 

Will the Zymol pad also work? I have a couple packs of it.

 

If it is the blue wax applicator pad...yes.

 

Yes, that's exactly what I got.

 

Is the Zymol Glasur wax the best one to use on a Porsche routinely? And also in addition to the applicator pad (linked earlier) what do you guys use to wipe off the wax/any specific product?

 

I do not know if it is the best, but the instruction was very specific about wiping it out right the way and do not let it dry to a haze. I have only applied to the top of my car as I ran out of energy and time. It takes a lot longer than the regular wax and hence my question about a quicker way. The result does look better though, it seems to have a more "wet-look" than the rest of the car which I finished with Megiuar. I will try to wax the entire car with it next time.

BTW, what is the recommended waxing interval? Twice a year? My car is garaged most of the time. (99.9%)

 

If you drive your car and it's subjected to direct sun you'll find that Zymol and Swissvax waxes should be applied about 10 times per year or every 4-5 weeks. This info comes from Swissvax. In the garage I'm sure the wax will last 4-6 times longer. Sun/heat is a major factor in degradation of wax as the wax will loose it's bonds.

For those who enjoy waxing their cars, remember a perfect finish is key prior to application of a LSP. Some, like me, may be better with the application of a sealant followed by a LSP of carnauba for extra shine. I'd never really look at a carnauba based wax as having much longevity.

 

I never really bought into the "this wax is best/made for this car manufacture". Zymol and Swissvax are very big into this marking and there may be some science behind it, but my idea of a good carnauba based wax is this; 1] The Wax is easy to apply and remove; 2] The wax is not temperamental (i.e., not prone to sweating or hazing).

Re-hazing and Sweating:

Taken from an article at http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/?du=y written by Marc and Jacob from AutoLavish Fine Automobile Care of Michigan http://www.autolavish.com/Autolavish_Site/Welcome.html

Re-hazing is the most common issue with a wax (or sealant even) and occurs when the product is applied too thick, isn’t given enough time to set, or a combination of both these factors. If you apply the product too thick to the finish, the wax that is touching the paint itself doesn’t dry properly or enough while the outside of the residue ends up hazing over giving you that “crust” that you’re looking for which is an indicator the wax is ready to be removed. Once you remove the wax residue that is dried, the remaining wax residue that hasn’t dried begins to set on your paint. This re-hazing can occur to part of the vehicle (if you apply wax thicker to certain areas), or the whole vehicle. Most people that have dealt with some of these high-end waxes have experienced this first hand: they get done performing some outstanding work to a vehicle, wax it, come back 30 minutes later, and observe some spotty cloudiness which makes them want to pull their hair out. If you encounter this problem know you’re not alone, and it will go away. If you see hazing, wait another 15-45 minutes before you wipe the car back down to give the wax more time to set. Carefully wipe away the residue again, give the paint another good 20-30 minutes and re-check for haze.

Sweating affects few waxes, but Supernatural is one of them. This is a problem that seems to be unique to ultra-high carnauba content waxes. While re-hazing gives a cloudy look right away, “sweating” will happen most often within 24-48 hours of application if the car is outside in the sun and will appear as what seems to be sweat drops on the finish. This is most notable on dark colored cars (you can see anything on a dark colored cars and dark colored cars absorb a lot more heat than lighter colors), and most often occurs on larger panels in direct sunlight that absorb more heat (the hood, roof, and trunk lid). The best solution is to wait until the paint is completely cooled off and wipe the affected area with deionized (pure) water.

As far as all towels are concerned I'd do some research on why microfiber is blended and on different types of blends [ratios] (I know this sounds **** and I am, but knowledge is power).

Here are some sites with some info you may find helpful and PM me if you want any product recommendations:

http://www.roscorags.com/default.asp
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Microfib...ories_s/18.htm
http://www.viaripatti.com/MFibinfo.html
http://www.ecarwax.com/page.cfm/More...fiberinfo.html

 

Drsullivan...Thanks for the abundance of information, will definitely read into the links you provided