I'm putting a coat of Rejex on my car tonight, should I wipe it off or let it dry on it overnight or will that damage the paint? Will it introduce any scratches when I take it off? I'm looking for the best way to make it bond to paint.

 

Treat it like wax- when it comes to a haze, polish it off with a good microfiber towel.

 

i just washed my car and put a few coats of klasse sg on it. I always wondered the same thing, if it will help should the sealant stay on longer. I think the consensus is that it will only make it more difficult to remove.
i usually apply and remove in less than a minute later.
I applied 2 coats today, will probably wash then repeat more coats during the week then I will apply a layer of p21 wax

 

I already wiped it off for tonight's coat, will let tomorrow coat dry on it!

 

Would using Megiuar's Swirl Remover 2.0 over Rejex remove the rejex? Will the rejex make the swirl remover useless? I need to get rid of a couple of micro scratches on my passanger mirror.

 

Rejex is a polymer based product that, as far as I know, cannot be removed by polishing. I'd recommend wiping the car down with a 50/50 solution of isopropyl alcohol and water. Griot's also makes a wax remover. I know the only car I tried to remove the rejex from took 6 applications of Zymol HD Cleanse. Rejex is some strong stuff.

 

Thanks Moe, so if I go over the area with some swirl remover I won't be able to remove any scratches since it's Rejexed already?

 

The swirls remover doesn't work all that well. I've used it before, not anymore, and it only hides them. To remove them legitimately, you need a better polish like Menzerna Final Polish or 106FF.

 

Moe, will Dawn soap remove Rejex?

Also, would I get better protection for the paint if I use Rejex first and then two coats of Vintage?

 

that is a good question stryke, i was also interested how the sealants like rejex or klasse are removed.
i do notice that after a few months it doesnt feel like the sealant is still there, this is just with regular washing, mild soap.

 

as far as I know, since products like rejex are a polymer, you cannot break the bond using a more aggressive soap. This is why I'm not a fan of synthetics. I want to be in charge of when the wax comes off my car, not the product. I wouldn't worry about stripping all of the Rejex off. Wash the car like you normally would; use Dawn if desired. Then dry and wipe down with the alcohol solution I suggested. Wash again, clay, and then apply the new product. As far as Vintage, it should be holding up for at least 6 months if you're washing with Clear and using Field Glaze. I don't see a need for a sealant. How is everything holding up now? Did you ever get a chance to put more vintage on?

 

This is what I noticed raffi. Bottom line is, there is no magic product out there that's going to make your car bullet proof. Use whatever you like bt realize the product's limitation. It comes down to common sense. There are products out there that are just plain inferior; I'm not shy about discouraging clients about using them. But when you get to the better products, like Optimum, Einzette, P21S, Zymol, etc., they're are going to hold up pretty good; some better than other, hence the price. Bottom line, use what you like, know how the proper way is to use the product, and enjoy detailing and driving your car.

 

Since my car is outside the BMW is no longer beeding too well so I want more protection. Would Vintage bond well over Rejex?

 

So I take it it's safe to wax over rejex but not polish?

 

I'll call you on Monday. We've gotta figure out what's going on. There's no way Vintage didn't last since you applied it less than a month ago. And no, you cannot rejex and then use vintage. And applying Vintage and then Rejex is pointless and would take away from why you purchased Vintage in the first place.