GT3/GT2 Performance and Track Discussion on the Porsche GT3 and GT2

You guys with centerlocks need to get your nuts torqued!!!

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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 04:56 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by teflon_jones
Dealerships are notoriously wrong. I'd much sooner trust an operations manual, plus a service bulletin, that comes from an internationally recognized sports/super car manufacturer over what a dealer says. Especially when those two things were written by a bunch of eggheads with more college degrees than you can shake a stick at versus a couple of guys at a dealer that probably never went farther than high school and/or technical school.
Actually the man I refer to is John Gladwil, lead mechanic at Boardwalk, and he is a Spec Boxster driver and is very familiar with the GT3 series...check him out. Many people (not just Texas) bring their track toys to this guy for proper setup.
 
Old Jan 11, 2011 | 05:35 AM
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^John is good. Beyond good. Not all Pcar guys are bad, and John is an example. I would trust his opinion ahead of anyone. He is like me. Work is time spent just waiting until the next race.
 

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Old Jan 11, 2011 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Silentrun
Actually the man I refer to is John Gladwil, lead mechanic at Boardwalk, and he is a Spec Boxster driver and is very familiar with the GT3 series...check him out. Many people (not just Texas) bring their track toys to this guy for proper setup.
Originally Posted by cc08gt2
^John is good. Beyond good. Not all Pcar guys are bad, and John is an example. I would trust his opinion ahead of anyone. He is like me. Work is time spent just waiting until the next race.
Well I don't know him, so I have to go by what you said. But I have to question, when not only the manual says a higher value than he does, plus there's a TSB with an even higher value, why he says to go lower than both recommendations?
 
Old Jan 11, 2011 | 10:44 AM
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I'm torqueing 600NM for track and 500NM for street.
 
Old Jan 11, 2011 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I'm torqueing 600NM for track and 500NM for street.
What would be different between the 2. I drive hard on both.
 
Old Jan 11, 2011 | 11:23 AM
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I dunno, don't care much about bulletin puttering around on the street at 80 and only adhere to manual.

More worried about going into T17 at 150 and pay attention to bulletin??
 
Old Jan 11, 2011 | 11:28 AM
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^ I would agree with your comment. Do you change the tightness on Monday if you tracked the weekend?
 
Old Jan 11, 2011 | 12:36 PM
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I always switch to 18" BBS for track so I just tighten those a bit more then when I put OEM back on after the weekend.

Just got done, leaving for sebring tomorrow ;-)
 
Old Jan 11, 2011 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I always switch to 18" BBS for track so I just tighten those a bit more then when I put OEM back on after the weekend.

Just got done, leaving for sebring tomorrow ;-)
Wish I had that problem.....
 
Old Jan 11, 2011 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TRAKCAR
I'm torqueing 600NM for track and 500NM for street.
+1, retorque to street spec after pulling wheels off to clean/swap after a track day...

Originally Posted by cc08gt2
What would be different between the 2. I drive hard on both.
The reason they require 600Nm for the track is that there have been some issues with seized centrelocks because of the different materials in the bolts/hubs/wheels and the extreme temperatures generated on the track supposedly making them expand at varying rates. Thus a greasing procedure was introduced to ensure no seized bolts and the extra torque is to stop them coming undone from the added lubrication. Overkill for the street as it is harder to crack the bolts at 600Nm if u need to...
 
Old Jan 15, 2011 | 07:41 AM
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It's official for me as well, John indicated that 600nm is the way to go...not crucial for street but the safe way for tracking. He indicated that there is no way the wheel can fall off as the locking splean prevents that.
 
Old Jan 15, 2011 | 10:11 AM
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What is 600 NM in pounds, and does our torque wrenches have NM's anyway?
 
Old Jan 15, 2011 | 11:28 AM
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444 ft lbs and you need a nice long torque wrench or a torque multiplier.
 
Old Jan 15, 2011 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Silentrun
444 ft lbs and you need a nice long torque wrench or a torque multiplier.
^Me got one!
 
Old Jan 28, 2011 | 02:35 PM
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444 ft lbs and you need a nice long torque wrench or a torque multiplier.
Just thinking back about the days of running around in my TR3 with wire wheels. Get out the lead hammer and beat the crap out of the spinner to change a wheel. Calibration at it's finest.
 


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