Not really, you just need a 4 foot torque wrench and 150 lb feet of torque

jump on the bar!!!

hahahah

yea you need a 4-5 foot torque wrench

 

Guys, can you please tell me which "Key" you use to put the centerlock off? really urgent, i go to Hockenheimring tomorrow....is it a porsche Key, or we can buy a Facom one for example?

Thank you in advance!!

 

The Key is a special tool that comes with the car (2010 GT3) in the front luggage compartment. You remove the plastic cap on the center of the wheel and insert the splined tool until it clicks and pushes the locking spline ring pass the lock mechanism and then you can loosen or tighten the centerlock nut. With the plastic cap off you can push the locking mechanism (a 1 mm thick ring which is spring loaded to pop back out) by pushing with a small screwdriver against the spring. When properly torqued the lock ring shoulkd be flush with the outer edge of the drive shaft hub.

 

Thank you very much for the information man! it helps!!

 

New torque spec just came out again.

 

Link? (or the summary)

 

Don't have the link. Spoke to a Porsche rep. He said the new spec came out on April 6th. When tracking, you are required to tighten to 600nm, loosen back out, and tighten again to 600nm.

 

This is kind of getting funny. Seems like Nemo's father Marlin at the beginning of Finding Nemo...

Marlin: you go out, come back in, you go out, come back in, and if you want to do it a third time...

Nemo: Dad!

---

Porsche: you take it off, you put it on, you take it off, you put it on, and it you want to take it off a third time...

(yes, I have kids.)

 

I wonder WTF loosening out and retightening really does? Once it's tight, isn't it tight?
Has anyone had issues? Hub problems? Loosening at track while driving? etc.

 

This procedure has been in place since September 2010. Please refer to the third post of this thread... A pdf of the TSB is provided regarding torquing and greasing.

It would seem your dealer must be quite behind the times...

 

Nope. I could be wrong on tech verbage. I didn't talk to dealer. It was the regional service rep. He knows as much as anyone on the planet. I could have mistated the tech, but it came out on April 6th. I'm positive on that, as it involved my warranty claim.

 

Hell Chuck, I didn't figure you keep the cars long enought to even change out the tires.

 

On Ferraris with center lock hubs I owned in the past (e.g. 365GTB4 [Daytona]) my mechanic recommended the same procedure: tighten, losen, re-tighten. The reason: any dirt that might have been in the system and that might have compromised the torque actually applied on the first tightening would have been mostly moved out of the way for a cleaner re-torquing.

One big difference between then and now: We used a big spanner and lead hammer to tighten the nut. Not exactly a high-precision procedure, but you did develop a feeling for how hard to hit the spanner. Some guys at track events had trouble with the hammer and hit the fender. Ouch.

 

Yes, i had my left front hub nut and spindle fail. Dealer in Henderson NV said it was impact tool issuebut we always use 5' torque wrench. Anyway word to the wise "lube it or lose it". Have never had any loosening of the nuts. ran at Spring Mountain NV two track days with BBS 19's and hoosiers.

GT3RS.2

 

Makensure that the spring loaded locking nut is out after you torque down. I had mine loosen up after 4 laps!!!! FYI, car does not drive well with loose nuts!!! One of the rear nuts won't stay tight, so I have a new one coming! I love these center locks!!!