I am ready when you guys are. Lets get everybody together and get er done
Start a list of people who are on board and list out what bore and stroke you want.

The list goes as:
1- ADAMNSONS : 82x104.1 4186cc (GT2)
2- Jamie_GT3 : 82x103's 4100cc (GT3)



I am not going for top horsepower numbers. My car is pretty light weight and I plan on lightening it further. I want my car to have great spool, and power\torque off boost as well as on boost. I just want a fun car that handles great. I will work on my suspension next.

I'll come back shortly and confirm my intentions and spec from there.

Just looking at further property purchase...

I should have my list by mid week

regards
Mike

Here's an interesting spec off the 9ff site:

http://www.9ff.de/en/997-gt3-3600ccm...t3-545-43.html

997 GT3 545 4.3
997 GT3 9ff Engine Conversion

Cubic capacity 4.3 L

Conversion to 545 HP ( 401 KW ) at 8.400 RPM
490 Nm at 5.300 RPM

Consists of:

9ff Conversion to 4,3 L cubic capacity
9ff Aluminium forged pistons 105mm
9ff Steelcylinder 105mm with coating
9ff Crankshaft with 82,4mm distance
9ff stronger Steel connecting rods
Engine block doweled
New connecting rod bearings
Modified cylinderhead and valves
Bigger throttel plate
Camshafts
Modified fuel pressure regulator
9ff Exhaust manifolds Stainless steel 3x50mm to 70mm
9ff valve exhaust system with adjustable sound (Sporty/ quiet )Stainless steel 70mm
9ff Tailpipes Diameter 90 / 90mm Stainless steel polished central
2x 100cell Metall Motorsport catalytics
X-construction of the catalytic converter system for higher torque
Airfilter CUP layout
Stronger clutch with organic coating and motorsport Flywheel
9ff ECU for E-Throttel, Variocam und HFM system
Motorsport sparking plugs with 9ff special heat rating
Castrol RS 10W-60 engine oil
Oilfilter and sealing kit

Assembling:

dismount engine
release transmission
disassemble engine
clean engine
chart engine
complete engine
assemble clutch
assemble transmission
install engine
program ECU
build and install exhaust and manifolds
final assembling
adjustment drive

Nmax 8.500 RPM
100 Octane Gasoline

Did they say how much?

No price on their web site, a case of if you have to ask...

I think 9ff is using the PPM racing crank etc. this is what PPM said when I asked who purchased their products...

I think my heads about to explode - choices!!!
I am thinking about keeping the stroke as short as possible to enable a freer revving engine. Also with compression up a little and 3.88 diff then it should be quick out of corners
I note the 9ff package down from the one (997 GT3 510 4.0 - http://www.9ff.de/en/997-gt3-3600ccm...t3-510-40.html) above uses standard bore (at least for a 997.2)
This would mean crank, rods, pistons, coatings etc.. for a cost effective kick off point.
I've not ever had a lot to do with builds and rebuilds and would appreciate input from those with experience

my thoughts are as follows

1) I want to keep the car for some time to come, and it can be a work in progress over time

2) If I go all out now then would a future build require a new block too? or do the sleeves save this?

3) Shorter stroke faster revving (would it be noticeable?)

4) Good crank and rods make for best foundation so future builds could simply be rebore, pistons, rods and recondition crank if need be, does this sound right?

5) are the JE pistons being used here designed to allow larger valve sizes. I note in some other builds the details specifically mention pistons designed specifically for larger valves.

6) by staying a little conservative are we able to avoid pioneering our way through unseen issues? Tuning is the most sensitive as I see it, remaps etc..

Your input appreciated

Been reading up on rod ratios as well.

Alan, can you get the rod length from Brian for the 82mm stroke crank? We really need to stay over a rod ratio of 1.6 or so or the side load on the pistons and wrist pins will be a bit too high for good longevity...

Modoz, it makes sense to do the stroker with crank, rods and pistons from the beginning: it will save you money in the long run. You can leave your heads, and cams stock in the beginning to cut cost and come back later for cams, head port work and change valves, springs, retainers, etc. You can also save some cost by not replacing the sleeves, and using the stock sleeves you have in there right now but you will still need pistons because the stroker kit will come with different length rods with different rod journal sizes and different wrist pin size; you can not use your stock rods and\or pistons. So you can choose to go with stock bore size, cylinder liners\sleeves, go with the 103mm drop in sleeves that will not require machining, or larger bore sleeves\liners like 104.1 which will require further machining.
The pistons will come ready to accommodate for 2mm bigger valves, and more lift.
Sorry, I am not too clear about the question regarding needing a new block for future builds or not. If you go with stock sleeves or 103mm bore, drop in sleeves, you can always go back to stock size or up to 103mm with the drop in ones. If you go with 104.1mm bore sleeves now, you are stuck with 104.1 or larger(only have room for a couple of rebuilds by honing the sleeves larger, 0.010"-0.030"; can't safely go over 0.0030" over), or you can use new sleeves and again pick any bore size up to 104.1. I hope that helps : ) You might need new sleeves, not a new block so maybe that is what you meant. (Is that what you meant when you said the sleeves\liners will save it?

As for a couple of mm of stroke more or less, and feeling the difference, I have talked with a few people and they all seem to agree that you will not feel the difference. Like I mentioned before, even though we are increasing the stroke of the cranks, because we are using smaller rod journal sizes the weight is reduced. Difference between titanium and steel rods might change the way the engines\motors REV but the difference isn't that big. Just get a lighter flywheel, or have some weight taken off your one if you really want the optimum result. lol

The cheapest way of getting more displacement out of your motor is by increasing your bore, pistons size. Look at the Sharkworks 3.9 stroker kit. They only change the sleeves and pistons, and give you new cams; doesn't even come with rods. I think the price is 18K if Im not mistaken. I might be wrong…
I would recommend at least upgrading the rod bolts. Don't know who offers a rod bolt upgrade for the stock rods; ARP might have something.
If it were me and I wanted to do a budget build to gain the most for the least amount for my GT3, I'd go with a set of rods, pistons, sleeves, and cams. Then again, I wouldn't be able to help myself and go the rest of the way and get the stroker crank. hehehe That is just me.

I am still working on Cylinder Head work and valve-train improvements. So far I have learned that going with 2mm larger valves both on the intake and exhaust make a huge difference just by themselves. The heads also flow a lot more at higher lift so the right cams will also make a big difference.

Hi Adam
Crazy Week

There is still a couple of questions I have

1) What was the maximum stroke that was recommended for 3 rings on the pistons 82 or 82.4?

2) Jay's earlier question of Brian's recommendations, CC vs Power Vs reliability

3) are the Capricorn liners out of the mix? What is the pricing differential of these to the 104.1 liners?

4) CAMS, Heads and Valve train pricing?

5) Head Porting - although for us in OZ I guess we source that locally

6) Jamie asked about chains, seals, guides etc..

From an ordering perspective only Q1, 2 and 3 are needed to finalise my requirements

regards

Mike

1) 82mm with 3 ring setup
2) Although the stroke to rod length ratio is on the lower side the reliability will be good; you GT3 guys need the displacement to make more power.
3) Capricorn liners is an option but an expensive one. Will bump the price up a coupe of thousand.
4) Still working on the heads, cams, valve train pricing. Will let you know as soon as I find out.
5) Still working on the porting as well
6) I would recommend new OEM timing chains, seals, etc, which can be purchased at your local dealer. I can look into it later to find out if I can get a better price, than what you can locally.
I also am working on head studs. 2 options.
A) 12mm studs with 40mm threads into the cases like EVOMS. 12mm all the way through. The heads will have to be modified for these to work; holes made bigger.
b) Studs with 12mm threads on the case side but neck down to 10mm; just like the Champion studs; the ones Keyser posted. This way you will not have to modify the heads.

Both A and B studs will require machining, drilling and tapping to accept the 12mm threads; have to go deeper for the additional threads and larger to accept 12mm.

The turbo applications which will run a ton of boost and run 1000+ Hp will be the only ones that would need Studs A. Moderate boost turbos and, GT3\NA guys will not need anything more than Studs B. The head studs will be stronger than the head bolts anyway; especial when they go in 40mm deep instead of 25mm.

Hi Adam

I'm in

104.1 x 82
Coatings – All : Pistons, Main Bearing, Rod Bearing
Crank – Gun barrel drilled and knife edged
Preassembled too
Compression target around 13:1

regards
Mike

The list goes as:
1- ADAMNSONS : 82x104.1 4186cc (GT2)
2- Jamie_GT3 : 82x103's 4100cc (GT3)
3- modoz : 82x104.1 4186cc (GT3)

I love to see this rolling forward. In for updates!