I love this story, cutting grass under the feet of "it's PORSCHE parts maaannn" gang. Mythbuster.

 

Saw in another build that he had "lighetened" them for the NA application versus the turbo applications... Is this an option for the NA builds?

 

Oh and can you share the crank maker?

 

Pauter too.

 

Subscribed.

 

Good choices on the rods/cranks from Pauter. They were on my short list as well, good racing heritage with lots and lots of GT1 style installs running around. Also like the big end nascar style bearings... Seems like they keep the costs down as well.

Where are the cylinders coming from?

Do we have a ballpark cost since it seems most things sans headbolts are put together...

 

Looks like the homework is about done.
Lets build this motor(s).

\m/

 

Hi everybody. Happy hollidays to you all.

Sorry it took me a while to get back. Thanks to my own family obligations, and most of the businesses being gone for the holidays, it took me a bit longer to get this buttoned up.

Here is what will be included in the kit:

- Billet Stoker Crank

- PAUTER Forged 4340 Con-rods (over 0.200" smaller rod journals to reduce weight and allow use of better rod bearings. This will also help with the oil pump clearance with added stroke!)

- CLEVITE Highperformance Race Series rod bearings (modified to work with the billet crank, sized to give the proper clearance specific to each crank)

- Porsche main bearings (modified grooved for oil delivery, oil holes enlarged, coating available for an additional $200)

- JE FSR Pistons (light weight pistons, light weight but stronger wrist pins)
(coating of the skirts and the piston top is available and advised for )

- Total Seal Piston Ring Set. Slightly different combination for NA vs. Forced Induction.

- Ductile Iron Sleeves (max bore 4.100")

- Multi Layer Metal Head Gasket to suit each individual bore size you will pick and thickness. You will be able to pick thicker or thinner gaskets to further adjust your compression slightly.

- Head stud kit. 205 tensile strength. Good for 1000+hp and 30 psi.

Up to 5 kits (1-4) the price for the complete stroker kit including all of the above is $11,528.
5 Kits and up the price drops another $500 to $11,028.

10 Kits and up drops another $500 to $10,528. I will be very surprised if we can get this many but I would love the additional savings

Available options:

- Titanium Connecting Rods: +$4500 (I have been told 6 titanium rods weigh close to 4 steel ones) Big weigh difference for you GT3 guys. Not recommended for Turbo applications due to boost.

- Piston Coating: +$250 (Skirt coating and Thermal Barrier Crown piston top coating) I highly recommend doing this! It will be worth every penny in my opinion to have the added benefit; especially when you are doing a build like this. I know I will go definitely go for it myself)

- Main bearing coating: +$200

- Rod bearing coating: +$100

- Lightening of CrankShaft: $850
There is also a super light weight Crankshaft option for the GT3s where the Cranks are gun\barrell drilled, and further knife edged but it costs $1500 more instead of $850 cost of lightening.


I did not take a few of the parts into consideration when I started doing my homework like, main bearings, rod bearings, sleeves, available coating options but all an all I think the price is still a lot better than I anything I have seen out there taking into consideration what will be included, the quality of the parts and better engineering parts. I have seen stroker kits where they are still using standard porsche rod bearing sizes. WHY? They are a lot larger than needed, which means a lot more weight, along with limited rod bearing access. With the rod journal size we picked, two hundred something thousands smaller, there are bearings available like 0.001 under and over sizes to fine tune the clearance of each rod to crank of specific cylinders. The cranks will come with the rods attached to them where they will already be clearances, or they will be labeled\stamped so you will know which rod goes onto which crank journal with which set of bearings. This alone saves you hours of build time. You are more than welcome to check to verify, but we will do the work already for you.
I will post the pics of the parts again as a visual guide.

BTW, I have been told that I can not sell these on the forum unless I paid a vendor fee of $250. I do not want to upset them so for now, I want to see hands of who are interested in the Kits and once that is established, I will pay the fee just to make everybody happy. What is fare is fare I guess. We can divide that cost among us.

One last bit of info regarding the head studs. Unfortunately they go up in price after the 18th of January. They are supposed to go up after the first but I managed to convince them that there will be multiple sets ordered and convinced them to give a curtesy extension until the 18th. Even if we do not get this buttoned up by then, I am sure it will not go up any more than a Benjy.

I have went to my cylinder head guy and walked for a while. He has a GT3RS head now and will try and digitize it to make a better CNC port program to improve them, and possible use the same program or slightly modified one to use for the earlier GT3s, and Turbo heads.
He said the Turbo, GT2 and GT3 can benefit a lot from larger valves and hand port\polish. He will try and get me some pricing for the work and the parts needed like the valves, springs, keepers, retainers, etc. I will bug him daily after the first to keep the fire burning under his butt to speed it up as much as possible.

 

 

Count me in

 

Hi Adam,

Great work on this, I'm asked around myself with some engine builders and the biggest concerns are being the guinea pigs with the stroker crank shaft. I've heard horror's of building it, buttoning it up and not getting oil pressure because of issues with the crank shaft.

Can you help allay my hopefully unfounded fears? Also someone other than you said it was a Pauter 82.4mm stroker crank, can you share more details if possible?

Thanks

Jamie

 

There are a few things to be careful when doing a stroker kit for our cars. As the stroke increases the 3 of the rods can bind up against the oil pump or if you go too far the pistons can drop too far where the rings can not seat\seal and or depending again on stroke, rod lengthe and piston height, the pistons can bind up agains the crankshaft. The whole kit is designed with the right length con-rods, right size pistons and crank to ensure everything works properly.
There is also a smaller rod cournal size that can be used but this can only be for a race application where the motor will have to be rebuilt on a lot shorter intervals than a street motor. If you want to built the ultimate motor for your track toy, and want the most displacement possible, least amount of rotating mass and do not mind taking the motor apart once a year, or less depending on how many miles you will put on the motor, that would be the way to go. The rod journals would be 0.400" smaller. I will find do some more homework on this set up in the future but do not recommend it; it's not for eveybody, only for race\track applicatoin. I dont even know if they would allow that in a sanctioned class. I am sure some of you guys would know that. If you do a 86mm x 104.14 that is 4395.4cc Let's move on because we are not doing that now

With these taken into consideration, the kit is designed with smaller rod journals which means smaller big end diameter of those said journals to give more clearance against the oil pump. We can go all the way up to 84mm stroke for the GT3 applicatoin. I have seen stroker kits, I will not mention any names, which use stock Porsche Rod bearing journal size, where the big end diameter of the rods are larger and they have to clearance the oil pumps quite a bit and are also limited in how much stroke they can have.

The rod journal size chosen, the one we will be using eliminates a big portion of this situation.

As far as the oiling goes, you are right to be concerned. If stock bearings were to be used, there could be problems, but we will have modified bearings to make sure we wont have any issues. The bearings will be modified, the oiling holes will be enlarged to supply enough oil. That is why the kit will come with these modified bearings.

For the Turbos, we will go with 81X102.6=4018cc (you have the option of going another 1.6mm larger stroke which gives you 4097cc), and for the GT3s my recomendation is 82.6x104.14=4218cc, 82x104.1=4186 we can go up to 84mm stroke where 84x104.14=4289cc, a 4.3Liter


GT3:

- 80 x 104.1 = 4085cc
- 80.6 x 104.1 = 4116cc
- 81 x 104.1 = 4136cc
- 81.6 x 104.1 = 4168cc
- 82 x 104.1 = 4186cc
- 82.6 x 104.1 = 4218cc 4.2
- 83 x 104.1 = 4238cc
- 83.6 x 104.1 = 4269cc
- 84 x 104.1 = 4289cc (MAX recommended)

TURBO & GT2:

- 80.6 x 102.6 = 3998cc
- 81 x 102.6 = 4018cc 4.0
- 81.6 x 102.6 = 4047cc
- 82 x 102.6 = 4068cc
- 82.6 x 102.6 = 4097cc

 

Just flown back from the UK.

I'm hopefully in, will have to juggle finances to make this work for me as timing isn't the best but should be able to do it!

Cheers
James

 

Price is great, just don't know if I want to be a guinea pig for a 82.6mm stroke on a N/A engine.

Would like to see one built and see how it revs

 

Dave,

Why not go over square and use the 81mm stroke and 104.1 bore to get 4136cc?

I am happy with the 82mm but hoping to run Ti rods and crank lightening including knife edging to over compensate.

Keyser can spill the bean's on the engine response as he runs steel rods and 4.2l, just not sure on the stroke...

Cheers
Jay

Cheers
Jay