Did anyone see the Wheeler Dealers episode on the TR6 last night?

They used Evans Waterless coolant and the main interesting fact I picked up was the system doesn't build any pressure, i.e at full running temp you can take the 'radiator' cap off and nothing happens, no steam, no boil over!?

See here: http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/

Thought this might save us GT3 guys from blowing hoses...

Anyone used this stuff? I am going to research some more (I see the internet is a live with similar posts )

Cheers
Jay

 

I think that would help, but getting a DE coordinator to buy off on the fact that you're running coolant and it's going to be better will be a tough sell. If you did leak any on track, would be a skating rink behind you!

 

Jamie,

I agree in the states where your DE rules are strict on this it may not be an advantage over water wetter and welded fittings but for the rest of us (ROW) it may?

One thing is if you did get a leak/failure without the pressure it will be very slow and small giving a longer time to detect and resolve and the resaulting leak will smaller and spread over a much larger area. With water and the pressure at 100+ deg C when there's a failure even small, all the coolant turns to steam and gets pushed out in a one causing a big spill/lake and all the problems this entails on track and road.

If no pressures built this removes the cyclic stress on hoses and radiators that make them fail and having no corrosion is always going to be a good thing.

I want to find out the thermodynamic properties of this new coolant compared to straight water and 50/50 water/antifreeze mix then go from there. It needs to be close to extracting/moving heat as normal coolant.

Thanks
Jay

 

Specific Heat

Evans = .65-.68
50/50 Coolant/Water = .78 - .85
Water = 1.0

 

Thanks Jamie.

 

The pump is still circulating this stuff so if a fitting came out or hose broke I would think it would still create a big mess. Am I missing something?

Wayne K

 

Wayne,
Yes there’s a big difference between pump pressure and the pressurized water with regard to quantity being dumped.
With a normal coolant system running at operational temps especially at load (say on a track etc) the coolant wants to boil but is kept in check by the sealed system/pressure cap @ 1+ bar. When this is release by say a blown hose or fitting the water boils and almost explosively gets expelled in its entirety in milliseconds.
The pump will take a few minutes I would guess to empty the system if no pressure is applied. This time spreads the 'leak' out over a much bigger area with smaller quanities so the likelyhood of a spin or track closurer is much reduced.

Cheers
Jay

 

Jay,

Thank you for explaining this. If one would fill the system with this would you still use the same pressure cap or something else?

Wayne K

 

+1 on the question by "Wayne K"

 

I don't see why you would change the cap only its use changes to stopping slop spills instead of pressurising the system to raise the boiling point of the coolant.

Cheers
Jay

 

After reviewing Evans website this certainly looks like a better way to go until one can have welded or pinned the fittings. Has anyone here gone this way? If so how hard was it to get all the water out of the system? Does it require pulling hoses etc.?

Wayne K

 

Might be ok to use provided one's GT2/GT3/Turbo is old enough to be considered a classic or vintage car....

I'd be worried about this fluid's resistance to forming vapor bubbles when the pump is working hard and the fluid is hot.

The stock water pump vanes are designed to work with fluid (a blend of anti-freeze/water) of a specific gravity and under pressure when hot.

Pump damage and failure due to cavitation does not appear to be a problem.

With this new wonder fluid...?

Think I'll hold being the 1st in line to try this stuff.

 

[QUOTE=Macster;3738762]Might be ok to use provided one's GT2/GT3/Turbo is old enough to be considered a classic or vintage car....

That is why they make the "Performance Range" Which is designed for modern performance engines. It's already used by many racing teams with great results.

If I do my 4.2 engine build, I will go with this when I re-fill the system.

 

I too will being going this route when the time comes to replenish the coolant for what ever reason... 4.3l ;O)

Jay

 

There’s a bit of info on the Evans site and cavitation resistance (localised boiling of an explosive nature) is mentioned as a positive!
I hope to have feedback I can share soon from some race team users. I have some positives for bikes- manly dirt but people on here may not make the connection.
Jay