GT3/GT2 Performance and Track Discussion on the Porsche GT3 and GT2

Roll cage padding

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Old 08-06-2005, 07:40 PM
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Roll cage padding

I've installed my cage, now I need to pad it. I'm using the BSCI padding for the helmet contact areas and softer tubular padding for the other contact areas. My question is where should the two types of padding be applied to the cage? Obviously, the stiff stuff goes on the main hoop above the seat and on side bars up high and on the front cross bar, but where else? What about the soft stuff? Door bars and lower on the front hoops seems logical, but again, where else?













Thanks,
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Old 08-06-2005, 10:08 PM
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Wow....where does your head go? It looks like your seat is far enough back that your helmeted head will contact the bars above and to the left/upper side. Is that the case? Hope not. Or I hope you're very short.

I'm not a roll bar padding pro by any means, but here's what I've done in past race cars:

I put soft stuff right next to my head so I don't rattle my brain/vision on rough tracks if/when the helmet touches on the left side. If you have enough clearance so you don't touch the cage at all with your helmet (even with a couple inches of sideways motion), use hard stuff there. Basically, the hard stuff will absorb motion better on impact, it doesn't compress so quickly as the soft stuff. That said, use the hard stuff everwhere you can that your body can come into contact with in a crash.

One of the nice benefits of the narrower hard padding, is that when you pad the cage bar that runs down the driver side A pillar, it doesn't obstruct your view like a full-wrap soft pad does.

Soft padding is minimal protection, whereas the hard padding can absorb energy like a helmet.
 
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Old 08-06-2005, 10:20 PM
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Originally posted by Super D
Wow....where does your head go? It looks like your seat is far enough back that your helmeted head will contact the bars above and to the left/upper side. Is that the case? Hope not. Or I hope you're very short.

I'm not a roll bar padding pro by any means, but here's what I've done in past race cars:

I put soft stuff right next to my head so I don't rattle my brain/vision on rough tracks if/when the helmet touches on the left side. If you have enough clearance so you don't touch the cage at all with your helmet (even with a couple inches of sideways motion), use hard stuff there. Basically, the hard stuff will absorb motion better on impact, it doesn't compress so quickly as the soft stuff. That said, use the hard stuff everwhere you can that your body can come into contact with in a crash.

One of the nice benefits of the narrower hard padding, is that when you pad the cage bar that runs down the driver side A pillar, it doesn't obstruct your view like a full-wrap soft pad does.

Soft padding is minimal protection, whereas the hard padding can absorb energy like a helmet.
Are you saying I should use the hard stuff on the door bars and the front hoops down by my knees?

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Old 08-06-2005, 11:11 PM
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If you dont mind, how much do cages like that run for?
 
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Old 08-06-2005, 11:15 PM
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If you street that car without a helmet, you'd better pad the hell out of that thing!!!!! The window net attachment weld-onb looks like a scalping device!

If you street it, get some serious padding everywhere. I'd use the full padding and get a nice cover for it. Jeep style -
 
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Old 08-06-2005, 11:25 PM
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Is that bar bolted together or welded? All the key joints look bolted, that will not pass a tech inspection I'm afraid, Like JSZaid, you need some serious padding.
What racing body are you running with? kind of an unusual setup, most of the guys racing boxsters use a hardtop version.
Just devils advocate, not trying to be an a hole.
 
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Old 08-06-2005, 11:56 PM
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Originally posted by Ryan in SD
If you dont mind, how much do cages like that run for?
I got this 3rd hand, the new ones are $1349.

Stable Energies website

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Old 08-06-2005, 11:59 PM
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Originally posted by racerjsz
If you street that car without a helmet, you'd better pad the hell out of that thing!!!!! The window net attachment weld-onb looks like a scalping device!

If you street it, get some serious padding everywhere. I'd use the full padding and get a nice cover for it. Jeep style -
I do plan on padding most of the cage, hence this thread. This is one of my street cars and I have the cage bolted together to get all of the installation done and the padding put on. Once that is finished I will be unbolting and removing the front hoops and the crossbar when there isn't an upcoming DE/AX event.

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  #9  
Old 08-07-2005, 12:06 AM
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Originally posted by C4S Surgeon
Is that bar bolted together or welded? All the key joints look bolted, that will not pass a tech inspection I'm afraid, Like JSZaid, you need some serious padding.
What racing body are you running with? kind of an unusual setup, most of the guys racing boxsters use a hardtop version.
Just devils advocate, not trying to be an a hole.
I know you're not being an a**hole and thanks for the reply. Teh cage is a bolt-in with bolted front hoops, cross bar and door bars. This setup is for AX and DE only; it's one of my street cars and won't be used for racing. If I do go racing it will be with a dedicated (and gutted) track car with a welded cage. This is from the Stable Energies website, though:

"The revolutionary 'saddle bracket' joint developed by Safety Devices is approved by the FIA, RAC, MSA. This cage is PCA Club Race approved."

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  #10  
Old 08-07-2005, 12:09 AM
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Originally posted by Super D
Wow....where does your head go? It looks like your seat is far enough back that your helmeted head will contact the bars above and to the left/upper side. Is that the case? Hope not. Or I hope you're very short.

I'm not a roll bar padding pro by any means, but here's what I've done in past race cars:

I put soft stuff right next to my head so I don't rattle my brain/vision on rough tracks if/when the helmet touches on the left side. If you have enough clearance so you don't touch the cage at all with your helmet (even with a couple inches of sideways motion), use hard stuff there. Basically, the hard stuff will absorb motion better on impact, it doesn't compress so quickly as the soft stuff. That said, use the hard stuff everwhere you can that your body can come into contact with in a crash.

One of the nice benefits of the narrower hard padding, is that when you pad the cage bar that runs down the driver side A pillar, it doesn't obstruct your view like a full-wrap soft pad does.

Soft padding is minimal protection, whereas the hard padding can absorb energy like a helmet.
Sorry, these pics were taken with the seat moved all the way back for egress. I'm 5'10" and have the seat much more forward while driving. I have about 1.75 inches clearance from my helmet to the padding that will be on the cross bar.

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Old 08-09-2005, 07:43 AM
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I would not run a cage like that on the street with out it fully padded, even then it worries me. Wrap anything your head can come into contact with.
 
  #12  
Old 08-09-2005, 11:25 AM
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Originally posted by Bruinbro
Are you saying I should use the hard stuff on the door bars and the front hoops down by my knees?
I don't see any door bars; if you're talking about the left-side bar that runs along the roofline...If you have less than 2" of space (without padding) between your helmet and the bar with your seat in final driving position, you don't have enough room to use the high-density (hard) padding there IMO. Your head will move short distances rapidly back-and-forth on an average (imperfect) race track, and your helmet will contact the bar padding. Since you have such little clearance, I'd use low-density (soft) padding at the helmet contact area, otherwise you'll jar your head during these little impacts and it'll probably disrupt your vision.

Anywhere you have will have contact with the cage often or continually (some leg areas for example in a full cage with Nascar-type door intrusion bars--which is a different animal than what you're using) you should use low-density over it to make it a non-bruising interaction. If there isn't enough room, like what it sounds like here in the head area, go for low-density. If you have plenty of room, such that you won't be contacting the cage under "normal" driving conditions on track, go for high-density. Basically, you want to decrease chances of your cage hurting you in a crash, but while driving, if it batters your head or bruises the side of your leg, your driving is challenged--not good. You have to be comfortable in the cockpit so you can focus on driving.

Pad for protection first and foremost, comfort where you absolutely must. Just my opinions from my own experience, so there may be opposing views of course.

Btw, if your seat isn't on the floor, put it there. You need to get as low as possible for the obvious performance reasons, but also to get low enough in that car so you don't elongate past the roll-over bars if you flip it. This will also help keep your head away from the roofline bar in case of roll-over. Get the cage far away from you as possible, and vice-versa.

Have fun out there!
 
  #13  
Old 08-09-2005, 11:32 AM
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Originally posted by Super D
I don't see any door bars; if you're talking about the left-side bar that runs along the roofline...If you have less than 2" of space (without padding) between your helmet and the bar with your seat in final driving position, you don't have enough room to use the high-density (hard) padding there IMO. Your head will move short distances rapidly back-and-forth on an average (imperfect) race track, and your helmet will contact the bar padding. Since you have such little clearance, I'd use low-density (soft) padding at the helmet contact area, otherwise you'll jar your head during these little impacts and it'll probably disrupt your vision.

Anywhere you have will have contact with the cage often or continually (some leg areas for example in a full cage with Nascar-type door intrusion bars--which is a different animal than what you're using) you should use low-density over it to make it a non-bruising interaction. If there isn't enough room, like what it sounds like here in the head area, go for low-density. If you have plenty of room, such that you won't be contacting the cage under "normal" driving conditions on track, go for high-density. Basically, you want to decrease chances of your cage hurting you in a crash, but while driving, if it batters your head or bruises the side of your leg, your driving is challenged--not good. You have to be comfortable in the cockpit so you can focus on driving.

Pad for protection first and foremost, comfort where you absolutely must. Just my opinions from my own experience, so there may be opposing views of course.

Btw, if your seat isn't on the floor, put it there. You need to get as low as possible for the obvious performance reasons, but also to get low enough in that car so you don't elongate past the roll-over bars if you flip it. This will also help keep your head away from the roofline bar in case of roll-over. Get the cage far away from you as possible, and vice-versa.

Have fun out there!
Thanks for the reply. The pics don't show the door bars, they are longitudinal bars that connect the front hoops with the lower part of the main hoop tube and run slightly above the doo sill.

One of the options I have if there trully isn't enough room between the helmet and the cross bar is I can move the seat back and put a spacer between the steering wheel and the quick release hub. I'm going to measure the actual helmet clearance with the BSCI padding today; will post the results here.

Bruinbro
 
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