Panamera Chassis System Failure :(
#31
02-08-2018, 08:29 PM
Hello everyone.
Recently bought my Panamera Turbo 2010 with 39k miles from Florida.
this vehicle never seen snow and guess what? When I drove it to Chicago Winter time Chassis Failure happened to me. Brought car to independent Porsche shop. They were diagnostic the vehicle for 5 days and final result was valve block . Planning on replacing it.
weird thing that they’ve measured the vehicle drop overnight in the shop (Where was pretty warm) and it leaked nitrogen on one side (driver front) more than (passenger front).
before throwing money on valve block replacing I wanna make sure it’s the right thing to replace.
shop technician also mentioned they’ve added 1 liter of nitrogen in a system since it was low.
Need your thoughts. Thanks
Recently bought my Panamera Turbo 2010 with 39k miles from Florida.
this vehicle never seen snow and guess what? When I drove it to Chicago Winter time Chassis Failure happened to me. Brought car to independent Porsche shop. They were diagnostic the vehicle for 5 days and final result was valve block . Planning on replacing it.
weird thing that they’ve measured the vehicle drop overnight in the shop (Where was pretty warm) and it leaked nitrogen on one side (driver front) more than (passenger front).
before throwing money on valve block replacing I wanna make sure it’s the right thing to replace.
shop technician also mentioned they’ve added 1 liter of nitrogen in a system since it was low.
Need your thoughts. Thanks
#32
01-04-2019, 04:38 PM
I am a new owner of a Panamera Turbo S 2012, and unfortunately experiencing some of the same things described in this thread. It has been quite cold here in Utah for about 2 weeks straight now with low's in the single digits and highs in the 20's and I believe this has contributed to a problem with my Panamera's suspension. Unfortunately, I have the dreaded "Chassis System Failure" message that came on today. I have read quite a bit about this message and read the information provided in the following two posts.
Shock replacement DIY
Air suspension tech info
However, after reading much information I'm still a little unsure as to what my problem might be so I am hoping to get some recommendations here.
When I initially received the message, my first inclination was that it was just a result of the really cold weather that we are experiencing and though it would go away after the car warmed up. That being said, I drove the car about 5 miles, came back home and turned the car off, and back on, and sure enough the message went away. The system worked at that point, but with some minor problems that I will describe later. I shut the car off, let the car sit overnight, inspected the car the next morning and it was still at the same ride height. However, when I started the car, once again the "Chassis System Failure" message appeared. I drove the car again, about 7 miles or so, in hopes the message would go away after the car warmed. After the car was warm I came back home, turned the car off, waited a few minutes and started her back up. Sure enough the same thing happened as what had happened the previous day. The dreaded message was gone and the system seemed to be functioning mostly. The reason I say mostly is because there still seems to be something wrong and I will describe what I am seeing in the following paragraph.
It doesn't seem to be an air leak as the height stays the same over time and the compressor does not continually run. What happens is the following, I enable "high level", the rear immediately goes up within 2.5 seconds, but the driver side is about 3/4" lower than the passenger side. About 6 seconds after the back rises, the front then finally rises, just the same as the rear, with both passenger and driver sides going up, but the driver side is about 3/4" lower than the passenger side.
I am stumped and would appreciate any feedback.
Shock replacement DIY
Air suspension tech info
However, after reading much information I'm still a little unsure as to what my problem might be so I am hoping to get some recommendations here.
When I initially received the message, my first inclination was that it was just a result of the really cold weather that we are experiencing and though it would go away after the car warmed up. That being said, I drove the car about 5 miles, came back home and turned the car off, and back on, and sure enough the message went away. The system worked at that point, but with some minor problems that I will describe later. I shut the car off, let the car sit overnight, inspected the car the next morning and it was still at the same ride height. However, when I started the car, once again the "Chassis System Failure" message appeared. I drove the car again, about 7 miles or so, in hopes the message would go away after the car warmed. After the car was warm I came back home, turned the car off, waited a few minutes and started her back up. Sure enough the same thing happened as what had happened the previous day. The dreaded message was gone and the system seemed to be functioning mostly. The reason I say mostly is because there still seems to be something wrong and I will describe what I am seeing in the following paragraph.
It doesn't seem to be an air leak as the height stays the same over time and the compressor does not continually run. What happens is the following, I enable "high level", the rear immediately goes up within 2.5 seconds, but the driver side is about 3/4" lower than the passenger side. About 6 seconds after the back rises, the front then finally rises, just the same as the rear, with both passenger and driver sides going up, but the driver side is about 3/4" lower than the passenger side.
I am stumped and would appreciate any feedback.
#33
01-04-2019, 05:10 PM
I guess I found the answer!!!
I am a new owner of a Panamera Turbo S 2012, and unfortunately experiencing some of the same things described in this thread. It has been quite cold here in Utah for about 2 weeks straight now with low's in the single digits and highs in the 20's and I believe this has contributed to a problem with my Panamera's suspension. Unfortunately, I have the dreaded "Chassis System Failure" message that came on today. I have read quite a bit about this message and read the information provided in the following two posts.
Shock replacement DIY
Air suspension tech info
However, after reading much information I'm still a little unsure as to what my problem might be so I am hoping to get some recommendations here.
When I initially received the message, my first inclination was that it was just a result of the really cold weather that we are experiencing and though it would go away after the car warmed up. That being said, I drove the car about 5 miles, came back home and turned the car off, and back on, and sure enough the message went away. The system worked at that point, but with some minor problems that I will describe later. I shut the car off, let the car sit overnight, inspected the car the next morning and it was still at the same ride height. However, when I started the car, once again the "Chassis System Failure" message appeared. I drove the car again, about 7 miles or so, in hopes the message would go away after the car warmed. After the car was warm I came back home, turned the car off, waited a few minutes and started her back up. Sure enough the same thing happened as what had happened the previous day. The dreaded message was gone and the system seemed to be functioning mostly. The reason I say mostly is because there still seems to be something wrong and I will describe what I am seeing in the following paragraph.
It doesn't seem to be an air leak as the height stays the same over time and the compressor does not continually run. What happens is the following, I enable "high level", the rear immediately goes up within 2.5 seconds, but the driver side is about 3/4" lower than the passenger side. About 6 seconds after the back rises, the front then finally rises, just the same as the rear, with both passenger and driver sides going up, but the driver side is about 3/4" lower than the passenger side.
I am stumped and would appreciate any feedback.
Shock replacement DIY
Air suspension tech info
However, after reading much information I'm still a little unsure as to what my problem might be so I am hoping to get some recommendations here.
When I initially received the message, my first inclination was that it was just a result of the really cold weather that we are experiencing and though it would go away after the car warmed up. That being said, I drove the car about 5 miles, came back home and turned the car off, and back on, and sure enough the message went away. The system worked at that point, but with some minor problems that I will describe later. I shut the car off, let the car sit overnight, inspected the car the next morning and it was still at the same ride height. However, when I started the car, once again the "Chassis System Failure" message appeared. I drove the car again, about 7 miles or so, in hopes the message would go away after the car warmed. After the car was warm I came back home, turned the car off, waited a few minutes and started her back up. Sure enough the same thing happened as what had happened the previous day. The dreaded message was gone and the system seemed to be functioning mostly. The reason I say mostly is because there still seems to be something wrong and I will describe what I am seeing in the following paragraph.
It doesn't seem to be an air leak as the height stays the same over time and the compressor does not continually run. What happens is the following, I enable "high level", the rear immediately goes up within 2.5 seconds, but the driver side is about 3/4" lower than the passenger side. About 6 seconds after the back rises, the front then finally rises, just the same as the rear, with both passenger and driver sides going up, but the driver side is about 3/4" lower than the passenger side.
I am stumped and would appreciate any feedback.
After long and annoying research and talking to multiple technicians from Porsche and Mercedes, BMW etc. conclusion was simple. This air suspension is not equipped with any filter that protect it from humidity (water) to get into the system. In example Mercedes has simple Mann Fuel Filet about 2 inch in diameter on air intake that hold all the humidity and filter just air to the system.
In Porsche’s their none.
Especially in air reserve tank that located in rear end of the vehicle it was found about quarter inch of water inside.
Make sense right? When it’s cold it freezes and block the air lines and shocks from operating properly that why leveling sensors give you fail / error on dashboard. While vehicle warmed up , ice melts and air circulate properly.
One problem is : it’s not enough just to drain the air reserve tank , you need to eleiminate all humidity in the system that left in shocks and air lines . This can be done only with Nitrous Oxyde gas that evaporate water from system on very low pressure to make sure not to blow air struts.
Good luck on repair.
#34
01-16-2019, 03:49 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Anaheim, CA
Age: 43
Posts: 209
Rep Power: 14 
BOYS!!!!!! I was able to diagnose a problem on my own after getting two different independents to have a look over... Both shops recommended getting the shocks replaced... however, I know damn well that the shocks are perfectly fine.... So I went ahead and followed CIAKA's Workflow to diagnose and i found out that I had a simple Cracked Connector plug to the shock itself! I would get random Chassis System Failure on very cold days and finally it just stayed that way... I also checked on my two other friend's with PASM as well with higher mileage and the wire clips ALL were slightly broken or very brittle! I solved the problem with $7 from Fry's Electronics... basically used a 5" Male to Female jumper wires for motherboards which connects perfectly and protects from shorting out inside of the strut..... I'll post pictures very soon, but I literally just solved it right now and the Chassis System Failure went away and all the functions work again perfectly! Porsche NA is gonna hate me for this one as I have a feeling that they get customers to just get a replacement strut and while they are at it, they replace the wire connector part which I think can be ordered, however, I'll look at the wire connector part and see if I can find a corresponding part number...
#38
01-18-2019, 08:57 AM
Male to female jumpers are I assume wires that on one end have a metal wire sticking out, while on other side they have a plastic piece that has a hole, same dimension as the wire sticking out on on other end. Will be nice to see solution implemented, so all can view. Thanks.
#39
01-18-2019, 03:07 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Anaheim, CA
Age: 43
Posts: 209
Rep Power: 14
haha, Im looking through the "search" section right now on how to post pics on here... (easiest method).. It'll be up as soon as i figure this out haha
#40
01-20-2019, 11:05 PM
Switch to advanced mode, scroll down to see button called manage attachments. Drop pics on top of top section before dividing line (where it says pics from computer sometging like that) click upload and done
#41
01-21-2019, 06:49 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Anaheim, CA
Age: 43
Posts: 209
Rep Power: 14
Heres the jumper wires you can use... It fits perfectly snug and has a protected sleeve so that the wires do not short each other out..
https://www.microcenter.com/product/...BsexrymjJUKlqU
https://www.microcenter.com/product/...BsexrymjJUKlqU
#42
01-30-2019, 06:04 PM
Hey Alex.
I was just wondering on the simple cracked connector that you found had a problem, exactly what the labor involved to get to the connector is?Can you further explain where this connector is located? Do you have to take the airbag assembly down and out of the car to get to it and replace? Or are you able to get to it without taking the airbag assembly out of the car? Is there a particular reason, other than saving money, that you didn't get the replacement part from Porsche versus building your own from Fry's Electronics? And just to clarify this is indeed a problem with an electrical connector that you experienced, and no problems with air connectors, correct?
I was just wondering on the simple cracked connector that you found had a problem, exactly what the labor involved to get to the connector is?Can you further explain where this connector is located? Do you have to take the airbag assembly down and out of the car to get to it and replace? Or are you able to get to it without taking the airbag assembly out of the car? Is there a particular reason, other than saving money, that you didn't get the replacement part from Porsche versus building your own from Fry's Electronics? And just to clarify this is indeed a problem with an electrical connector that you experienced, and no problems with air connectors, correct?
#43
01-31-2019, 08:54 AM
Go to my thread about replacing the air shocks.
Panamera Air Suspension System Info & Troubleshooting
DIY: Panamera Air Suspension Shock Replacement (front)
Start with the info thread. Read slowly and in full. Become familiar with each part and what it does. Do not get locked into trying to find a problem someone else found. Yours could be exactly same, but at same time could be totally different. you will waste time looking for a fault that you do not have.
Look at pics of top of shocks. You will see the connectors. Shocks come with the sensors in them. Car has connectors that plug into these. I am not exactly clear on which connector he means (there are two - air hose line connecting to shock, and height sensor with solenoid to open/close valve in separate connection that has 2 wires) . I assume he fixed the 2 wire connector but not clear on how it was broken.
Best way for you to proceed is to inspect yourself. Many make mistake of assuming their problem is identical to someone else that posted with similar symptoms. Once you get locked into this mind set, you get searching for a problem that may not be there. So keep open mind and do the system PD from start to end, you will discover your problem. Good luck.
Panamera Air Suspension System Info & Troubleshooting
DIY: Panamera Air Suspension Shock Replacement (front)
Start with the info thread. Read slowly and in full. Become familiar with each part and what it does. Do not get locked into trying to find a problem someone else found. Yours could be exactly same, but at same time could be totally different. you will waste time looking for a fault that you do not have.
Look at pics of top of shocks. You will see the connectors. Shocks come with the sensors in them. Car has connectors that plug into these. I am not exactly clear on which connector he means (there are two - air hose line connecting to shock, and height sensor with solenoid to open/close valve in separate connection that has 2 wires) . I assume he fixed the 2 wire connector but not clear on how it was broken.
Best way for you to proceed is to inspect yourself. Many make mistake of assuming their problem is identical to someone else that posted with similar symptoms. Once you get locked into this mind set, you get searching for a problem that may not be there. So keep open mind and do the system PD from start to end, you will discover your problem. Good luck.
Hey Alex.
I was just wondering on the simple cracked connector that you found had a problem, exactly what the labor involved to get to the connector is?Can you further explain where this connector is located? Do you have to take the airbag assembly down and out of the car to get to it and replace? Or are you able to get to it without taking the airbag assembly out of the car? Is there a particular reason, other than saving money, that you didn't get the replacement part from Porsche versus building your own from Fry's Electronics? And just to clarify this is indeed a problem with an electrical connector that you experienced, and no problems with air connectors, correct?
I was just wondering on the simple cracked connector that you found had a problem, exactly what the labor involved to get to the connector is?Can you further explain where this connector is located? Do you have to take the airbag assembly down and out of the car to get to it and replace? Or are you able to get to it without taking the airbag assembly out of the car? Is there a particular reason, other than saving money, that you didn't get the replacement part from Porsche versus building your own from Fry's Electronics? And just to clarify this is indeed a problem with an electrical connector that you experienced, and no problems with air connectors, correct?
#44
02-01-2019, 12:13 PM
Thanks for all of the information everyone. I have found a leaky airbag and I'm going to replace. Has anyone used RMT (Rebuild Master Tech) suspension parts? They seem fairly reputable and their parts are made in the USA with a lifetime warranty, but just wondering if they are made out of cheap material? I can get a strut assembly from RMT for ~$350 versus ~$1100 from Arnott. I am guessing that Arnott uses OEM type materials for their rebuild and RMT uses a cheap quality materials. So I get the difference, more so wondering if anyone has actually used either brand and what their experience/result was. Thanks much for the feedback!
#45
02-01-2019, 12:33 PM
I used them. Had small issue, they overnighted part free. Happy. We will see how lifeti.e warr. Works.
if fails, u send in, they analyze, make judgment. Works well if u have extra car in mean time. I bet arnott no lifeti.e warr. Though. I like them.
if fails, u send in, they analyze, make judgment. Works well if u have extra car in mean time. I bet arnott no lifeti.e warr. Though. I like them.