Just got my error this AM, and it's been cold as ***** here forever. Monday I started the car up and started driving to work and man it was a hooptie, bouncing the from end over everything like there were no shocks. Then I got the Extremely low warning, I made it to work and got out and the front end was on the bumpstops. I waiting until lunch (a little warmer out) and started it, after 5 minutes the front end finally came up and I was able to work the lift button again.
Fast forward to this am and the car was fine at ride height when I started it, but after 10 minutes I got the Chassis system failure, shocks seemed fine, height seemed fine, so I just kept driving to work. I stopped it and restarted, message didn't come back.

I would suspect the ice issue or frozen value but wondered about something; if it's a closed system with Nitrogen what pressurizes it? Must be with air right, which would introduce moisture, and that would make sense with the cold, but if it's a closed system, then unless there is a leak....?

Anyway I hope it warms up soon as I need a reliable car

 

Or you might have a small leak/hole in one of your airbags where the rubber shrinks when the ambient air is cold, allowing air to leak out, and expanding when the ambient air is warmer not allowing air to escape. I just went for the $350 Air strut assemblies and found a third party shop that would replace both front assemblies for 5 hours of labor. I figured since one was leaking the other one wasn't far behind and it saves me 3/4 of an hour in labor to do them both at the same time. Most shops will want 3.5 or more hours of labor to do one side, so you'll have to shop around a bit.

 

they aren't really a closed system and they do suck in moist air from the outside (starts out pure nitrogen, but is replaced by plain old air after a while)

so the change of is being an ice issue is very high. time will tell (as will temperature)

 

 

I ended up using Suncore Industries. I ordered two, one for passenger and one for driver side. Ended up that one of them had the threads stripped out where the brass air fitting screws in. I had to call them and get a new one, and they made me pay for the overnight shipping. Even more Sucky part was that mechanic had already installed the strut before he found the stripped threads on the strut, so they ended up charging me for the installation of 3 struts.

 

Hi. New to the Pan thread barely 7 months now. Mine is a PanS 2010 970 with only 1800 kilometers (1000 miles) on it. Yes it was a garage queen and was very lucky to have this car!

When I first got this car, everytime I'd start and lock the car, there's this annoying buzzing sound that comes from the rear. It lasts around 3-4 seconds only but you always hear it during start ups, on idle and on lock up. Sort of like a motor sound (compressor?). Not really sure what it is until now. Is this normal?

Took the car out this afternoon after not driving it for 2 weeks, the CHASIS SYSTEM FAILURE appeared.




The suspension switches, sports mode, vehicle height switch wouldn't all work and couldn't get the darn red error off my dash. The car however was ok, the height was just fine and the ride was normal. It was just the annoying error message and the non-working switches that worried me. After a 30 minute city drive, I turned off the car and had dinner. After about an hour I went out and started the car and guess what...the CSF error was out and everything as in everything was functioning as they should. Cycled through sports, sports plus, comfort and adjusted the height several times and eveything was A-ok!

Reason I'm sharing this is that I'm in a tropical country hence it's always warm (30°C-35°C) everyday. We dont get below 0° temps out here and this still happened to me.

My questions are: what's the buzzing sound (related to the suspension compressor?) and am I really that lucky that this is just a system glitch?

 

Your answers:

• Yes it is the compressor for air suspension
• If you hear it every time you get out of car, it is a sign that your air suspension has a leak in it. Compressor should kick in occasionally only, when pressure in air tank (also in back of your car), gets to low threshold, causing compressor to kick in and increase tank pressure. Air going into suspension comes from the tank, not from compressor. Compressor only makes sure tank pressure is adequate for every day working.
• No, you are not that lucky. It is likely NOT a system glitch, but an error you should investigate. Just because your car is 1000 miles old, it is still 9 years old, rubber and similar components degrade by time as well as use.
• I would test the top of both shocks under the hood, to see whether the shocks leak from the rubber bushings
  • Open hood
  • Remove both triangular trim pieces (see my panamera air suspension info thread and shock replacement thread)
  • Spray soapy water onto top of each shock and connections
  • Look for air bubbles (may need to wait for few minutes)
  • If you see air bubbles (soapy water will make nice foam if air is escaping), you have a leak
• May also try to do same under car (near back bumper on driver side), to spray connections on the valve block, and also spray air tube connections to air compressor under the car
• Other reasons chassis system failure may come up is due to power steering fluid leaks or system issues, sometimes you get that if your spark plugs are bad (and you change to sport suspension, then under acceleration get errors about engine error and system chassis issue, but it does not sound like your scenario

One question, after you get the error, does the error clear after you turn car off and then back on later on? I suspect it does get cleared every time.

 

Thanks ciaka! Will review your thread.

This is the first time I got the Chasis System Failure error code on dash. It stayed on for 30 minutes. Lost the error message after 30 mins of city driving, stopping the engine and restarting it after an hour.

 

Just posting another update here. So my system chassis failure message went away for just a little while after replacing both struts and seemed at that point that I would have to replace my compressor as well. I have since replaced the compressor, and again the problem was fixed. I was so excited to no longer have the chassis failure message, and it went away for a whole 2 weeks. Now...the message is back again, but only under specific circumstances. The message will only come on when I do a power take off or under full throttle acceleration. However, the message will go away when I turn the car off and is gone when I turn the car back on again the next time. The message will only return when I full throttle the car. Has anyone seen this message or know why this message would appear when accelerating hard?

 

sounds like a loose connection

 

When have you had spa rf k plugs and coils replaced? Reason asking is that if you are in sport mode or under WOT (wide open throttle), car expects multiple things to be working just right for performance.
If plugs/coils issues detected, car performance limits, and due to such limits, chassus system faklure is flagged because air suspension is prevented from being in high performance mode. It is one of those 'one error causes many others' sutuation.
Noticed on my car, and others too.
Also check leaks in your valve block. If you still have leak, compressor will go out again.
Also possible you have issue with hydraulic fluid or motor, especially if have PDCC.
If you can, read tv he codes off car when you get the error. It will narrow your issue to one system.

 

Attached are the only error codes that I get. Not sure what they mean as they are not very intuitive.

Engine Module Siemens EMS SDI 6.1

Current Fault Codes

B0300:

Transmission Mount Valve -1-/-2- -N262-/-N263- Short circuit to B+ Value below lower limit value

C1A00:

Implausible signal




Porsche Active Suspension Management (PASM)

Current Fault Codes

336 / 150:

PDCC control unit, function restriction Warning Indicator On
Test Completed This Monitoring Cycle Test Not Failed Since Last Clear

Test Completed Since Last Clear Not Pending DTC
Test Not Failed This Operation Cycle Fault Active

12656791 / c12097:

Check air conditioner regulator control unit fault memory content Warning Indicator Off
Test Completed This Monitoring Cycle
Test Not Failed Since Last Clear

Test Completed Since Last Clear Not Pending DTC
Test Not Failed This Operation Cycle Fault Active






Any idea as to which of these is related to the chassis failure message and what it means? Thanks in advance!

 

First, get diagnostic package, piwis2, durametric, etc.
then, scan car to see exactly what errors you got.
Next understand when and how errors happened. Some errors pop up because other errors popped up.
For suspension. If you're in sport or sport plus mode and you get errors, you often get additional pass or suspension errors because some sensor is off, and all if a sudden the ecu is kicking you out of sport plus mode for safety.
Once you have exact errors, it will help us help you.
Your post, as is, is too generic. With too many ambiguities.
Hope this helps some.

 

Would be awesome to have access to piwis2 as ut can give very detailed messages on issues.
your warnings about vehicle being extremely high. I think come from the height sensors that are mounted on each shock. Have you been hoisting car up without disabling the suspension first, or at some mechanic place?
car reads itself riding way too high. Now it is more plausible ecu receives this message fro. Sensors, as opposed to ecu being bad in a way to say your car too high. Both possible, bad sensor more realistic.
When you look at the car does it look higher?
when you press raise car button, does car raise? All doors and trunk must be closed for that and make sure car has been running for few minutes. Think you mentioned replaced compressor so I assume its good, but was it new? Does it make sound when compressing? Should only turn on for about a minute at a time. If raise car does not work, means air tank does not have enough pressure.
Have you tried to clear all errors with car not running, then make sure charge your battery to full, while disconnected from car, then install battery back next day and observe messages. Do this on a warm day. If your suspension leaky, you will be getting suspension faults too.
keep troubleshooting, list error codes with error descriptions.
all of them.

 

Time to test the power going in and out of the fuse that feeds that module. Then test the power at the module itself.