Does anyone have info on what the torque should be for the front passenger air shock main nut (one top of the shock, not the air line but the one that large air line plugs into - its 21mm).
Showing pic for reference. I cannot seem to find it in the FSM.
I was doing some stuff on car, took a 21mm wrench and was able to turn it quite easily (saw bubbles come out when sprayed soap water). Trying to see if it needs tightening, but dont want to over tighten. When I attempted initially, started turnn clock wise and more bubbles started coming out. Need the torque to make sure its on properly, before I run out get another shock.


Thanks.

 

Hey, ciaka so this is exactly where i showed you mine was leaking from correct? if so it had nothing to do with the tightness of the screw it was actually a rubber seal breaking allowing small bubbles to come out. if you have time take a actual picture of yours so i can see if it was same like mine. also which side is this right or left and are both doing it or just one did you test both. as i told you few days ago back in messages i knew this would be your problem as i have troubleshooted the whole air suspension setup since my previous air suspension failures back to back.

 

Yup, it is same as your leak. I was hoping this nut is loose, since when I took 21mm wrench, I could start turning it rather easily. Wanted to find out what the torque on it is.
It does appear to be on top of rubber of some sort (the threading onto which the nut goes). When I started tightening, bubbles started coming out quicker.
That is why I did not want to keep going in case I tear something even worse. That is why I asked if anyone knows the torque. I will likely be making plans to get passenger side shock.
Checked both and only the passenger one is making bubbles.

Have questions for you about the shock removal.
1. Did you have to do anything special during removal of shock? I mean, did you have to compress anything (shock, or sway bar, anything else), to allow removal?
2. Did you have to bleed the shock before removing?
3. When removing shock, did you notice if shock has to be removed to replace upper control arm?

If you have specifics on how you removed it, it will be great in knowing what to expect.


Here is pic of my bubbles:

 

The Passanger Was also my problem , and it looks like your bubbles are coming out fast which is bad and is what caused my compressor to burn out so fast after being changed so get started on taking the strut out no you dont have to bleed the shock when you disconnect the hose its going to let out on its own, when you losen up the nut and finally get the shock out your going to have to seperate the airbag from the strut and your problem is going to be on the strut it self im almost 99% positive being that we just worked on another friends problem as well with this front strut when the airbag was removed from the strut there was a tiny rubber seal that seemed scraped up and i changed it with my rubber seal kit and from there on out it was no leaks but we dont know if thats your problem so that is just a starter for you if you can take pictures of your strut out / rubber seals so we can tackle the cause of the bubbles that would be great, you gave me good tips when my suspension failed so ill be glad to help you out the same way . as for the upper control arm i didnt pay attention as to if you need to removed strut to replace it i think so though not 100% sure would have to go check back on it.

 

Did I read that correct? Did you say you had a kit that replaced the torn rubber seal on top of the shock only? When I look closely, it did look like the black rubber under the nut seemed to be scraped or torn a bit. I will have to remove the triangle trim again, and look closely to take a detailed pic again zoomed in.
What is that kit you talked about, and is there a part number for it?

Just to sum up, to remove front pass. air shock, I will:
- remove wheel
- remove wheel lining
- support axle so it does not bottom out (can damage seals)
- separate upper control arm joint
- separate lower control arm joint
- remove sway bar link bolt
- remove entire shock from body (3 bolts on top of shock, plus remove thin green air line, plus remove the nut I referenced while disconnecting air line to it)
- separate shock

 

 

If you look under the nut, you can see a crack through which the air is escaping. See below, 1st pic.
2nd pic shows same crack with soap on it.

Is that the seal you mean? Really hard to see from pic attached above.





...here is the air shock disassembled...i dont see seals? Do you mean there is a small o ring on the tip of the shock insert? If so, what about the tear in my pic? I think FSM calls that rubber piece the vibration damper, means if torn, its one reason behind noises when going over bumps.

 

 

If my rubber damper piece is torn, and assuming the o ring you refer to needs replacing, then the way I see it is to replace the shock. Only that will guarantee both the o ring and damper to be repaired right. So yes, at this time I am contemplating replace.
After you put the shock together, did you just hook up all hoses back, and let compressor fill the shock? Or did you fill the shock first somehow?
Thank you for help.

 

 

I see one for $385 shipped. Have to pay 150 core but will get that refunded after I ship old one back (they will pay for return ship too).
Hope good deal. Anyone see better deals? Need front passenger side air shock for 2011 Pan turbo model. Thank you.

 

What was the torque spec of the bolt? I don't want to overtighten it.

Thanks.

 

looks like the FSM shows 55NM (41 ftlb)

 

Yes strut must be removed to replace upper arms

 

Going RMT route? I would suggest brand new not reman from fvd.net. They have German aftermarket brand new for a few about $150 more and no core needed.