I will check out the other post. You answered my question though. Now time to put on the weekend warrior gloves and get to work. Thanks for the help

 

Turn your car on, and get outside, close doors. you should hear the compressor running for up to a minute. Low noise humming sound coming from under car, back near the passenger exhaust pipe, Lean in to hear. If you dont hear compressor running, means compressor not working, means could be burned out, or fuse out, or relay bad. If compressor needs replacement, make sure you get the updated relay for new one and install it.

 

Got a Chassis System Failure message this morning. I can hear hissing from the right front area near the strut. Remove the cover, put soapy water and see bubbles right around the nut. Failure must have been hastened by me lifting that corner, removing the wheel, and sending it to Wheels America to refinish, which took two days instead of one they said it should take. I did turn off the suspension control by pressing the button for 10 seconds, confirmed on the display.

Sigh.

Looking at options, Arnott is significantly more than RMT. There is also a Duralast option from AutoZone which is even more than the Arnott, of which AutoZone sells both. Hmmm.

Thoughts on these options please? Any other options to consider?

FCP Euro provides lifetime warranty on what they sell. They seem to have the driver side (Arnott) front but no ETA on the passenger side. Wonder how much a Porsche original strut costs...

 

Just called my dealer and was told MSRP is $1575 for a strut. Just comparison shopping for now...

Do not leave suspension unloaded for extended periods of time!!!

 

yes compressor works. It’s responsive again.It looks like it’s just the front left strut that is leaking. Yes the mechanic keeps trying to scare me that after they replace the struts when they lower the car the rod pierces right through the bag. I am not sure how much of this is just a scare tactic to get some money off of me or if it’s in reality a true problems that can arise. They want to charge me close to $2000 to replace one strut

 

Heard similar about shock damage if you slam shock down fully. My work was with two jacks keeping front up.
Can you send shock back for rework? Is the leaking shock, one you replaced? Rmt may replace but their warranty covers issues the shock has due to their assembly.

 

Thanks for the tips. No what’s your take on the aftermarket shocks versus the $1300 plus shocks?

 

My wife wanted a cheaper alternative to the DuraLast strut I preferred. (Lifetime at AutoZone means lifetime, including wear and tear). I got a used but like new SCITOO strut from Amazon because it is shipped/serviced by Amazon, so good customer service. I'll post on how well it works, the one review on Amazon sounds bad....

 

no it’s a shock that came with the car when I bought it. I haven’t done any suspension work yet but Will need to replace the front driver’s strut due to a leaking airbag causing the chassis system error.

so with the 2 jacks and the struts replaced do the airbags get fill led up automatically before you set the tires back on the ground?

 

There's a filling procedure that should be followed before lowering the car per Tech Info, (all) wheels should be "suspended freely" while filling the accumulator with 17 bar (maximum) N2. The tank and pressure reducer are supposed to be attached to the right front line and PIWIS 2 used to fill the system. I'm afraid this is well beyond my pay grade, or at least way beyond my available shop equipment....

 

Fyi, for nitro fill, you need piwis2 computer, to control valve solenoids to open and close. That's why nitro is a shop thing.

 

I do not have a N2 tank either. Must be a big one to handle 17 bar (247 PSI)?

For some reason I could not find info on air suspension in the manual kindly shared by Mazurda. Maybe I didn't look hard enough, but I saw only the steel spring instructions. Since the strut is arriving today I thought I'd check out the tech info instructions yesterday evening, and found a document about bleeding and filling the system. It's a little hard to read but I realized this is not a task I want to take up. My wife is not going to be happy with this news.

How did you figure it's an open system? It sure seems closed, especially with that high pressure.

 

Spoke to porsche mechanics. When you release pressure from shocks, it gets out of shock, through the lines, into valve block, then out through vent line that goes behind the rear bumper.
Compressor puts compressed air into tank, tank pushes air into lines once valve block actuates, and once shock valves open.
You can get nitro tank at a welding shop for less than 100 bucks. The connector adapter about 40 bucks on ebay genuine.
BUT, you still need a way to control the valves in the block and in shocks. That can only be done with PIWIS2.

 

So as far as I understand if there is no leak in the system, then replacing a strut/air spring can be accomplished without loss of any N2/system air. This is done using the PIWIS 2 or 3 to bleed one air-spring strut. The pressure accumulator can accommodate one air-spring strut volume. Any more volume than that and N2/system air is lost. It does not specify anything with regards to a leaking strut. I guess it's supposed to be obvious to us that system air is lost though the crack typical of failure right near that central nut on the top.

I've been looking at PIWIS 2 and PIWIS 3 devices online. What a headache of so many choices, and most are very/too expensive.

I have not been able to get a quote on installation cost. I will wait until the SA I'm fond of gets back to me before I make a final decision. I did run to Harbor Freight and got a spring compressor to see if that will work...

 

...yes, and once you have it, you wont be getting subscription updates as dealers do, because it costs about 30k/month.
Unless you are wealthy and have 30k that you have to spend each month (in that case, I have a proposition for you).lol