Agree, replacing valve block does not need calibration of height sensors, but I need to do it for my car to ensure all corners are at precise same height.

 

Must be reader dependent I guess. <CTRL> F did nothing for me. ☹️

 

Most readers (windows based) do this, as long as the content is not an image. If each page was scanned as a jpg, then you are out of luck. You would probably have to scan the entire doc, through some OCR based software.
If the document is text based, even if it contains many images, pressing CTRL+F will bring up search text box. On a mac, it is a COMMAND+F key combo.

 

Hey sir:

Would you mind also send me a copy for the service manual? My email will be kiakiewong@gmail.com

Thank you so much !
JJ

 

Ciaka - thanks for all the helpful DIY tips.

I have a 2010 Panamera 4S, and this suspension issue is making me dirt poor.

I changed the front struts along with the valve blocks TWICE in the last 35K miles. Last time I changed them, it was 1 year ago, and the car is sagging again! I notice that both sides are sagging at the same time. Usually takes ~48 hours to sag. I sometimes get the error ‘vehicle is extremely low’, and sometimes I don’t. Every time I turn on the car, the car goes up to the proper level. The back side of the car is always fine.

Does anyone here have an idea as to what is causing this? It’s really hard to believe that I need to change struts every year.

Could it be an electrical problem? Or something else? Sometimes, when I turn the car on, the ‘suspension button’ is activated to the first level. I clearly did not press it tho.

When testing for leaks, where should I spray the soap water?

I was hoping to change the strut myself, I’m afraid I will really break it, at which point, getting it to the shop will be a real pain.

Lastly, I have read that not repairing the struts will overwork the compressor, which will ultimately break and cost me an additional $500. My most important question is… if the compressor costs $500, is it easier to repair than the struts? If so, I’ll just shelve out $500 to repair the compressor when it continuously dies again and again. New struts have been lasting me a really short period of time anyway.

As disclaimer - I drive in NYC, where road conditions are not optimal, but it’s not the jungle.

Please help!! I’m on the verge of swapping my car for a Toyota Corolla.

 

So I am finally picking p my car tomorrow. Turns out my issues were

1. the suspension pump/compressor
2. Front right strut was leaking.

A few thousand later and it is done. I would put the soapy water on the air bags of the strut to see if its leaking. You will get the bubbly, soapy notice where the hole is. Most likely a pin hole causing the issue. Definitely an expensive, needy girlfriend type...

 

I replaced all air struts/bags front and back along with my air compressor and solenoid at the same time in my garage. The air compressor isn't that bad as long as you have easy access under your car i.e lift etc. To confirm, you replaced the suspension air valve block on drivers side rear? Also, check each connection to the air compressor for leaks following the soapy water method. I find it hard to see the struts failing that quick even if they are rebuilt or aftermarket.

 

When the struts start to leak the compressor has to overwork to keep them inflated, and hence burns out faster. I immediately stopped driving ours after getting her home when the warning light first appeared on the instrument cluster. If you continue to drive that's the price you pay...

Do you lift the front end for extended periods of time? A potential suspect is leaving it unloaded/hanging. If I'm not going to be done within an hour I'll support the suspension with one of my motorcycle lifts.

 

Thank you both for your prompt responses. You guys are the best!

As for the block valve, my mechanic told me he changed it (don’t think he would lie about it), but I’m not sure where it’s located.

As for keeping the car lifted, I don’t. It simply sags by itself. I think the passenger side sags a bit more. I noticed that the car sags more during colder days. However, it takes a little less than 2 days to fully sag in a noticeable way.

I will buy some jacks to lift my car and try the soap water spray. But I am very much inclined to just changing the compressor when it dies as it looks like I can actually do that myself. I’m not an expert, but I would assume that under the current situation, I am working the compressor every time I use the car (somewhat overworking it), but don’t feel like I’m overheating it, as the vehicle stays in the proper level for at least 24 hours while parked.

Last time I changed the struts, I paid like $5K to the Indy. So if a compressor costs like $500 and it’s a DIY, I could change it 10x for the same price as changing the struts. And based on my current track record, I don’t think I will blow the compressor once a month, hence I will come out on top hahahha.

But yeah, really appreciate your feedback. My current plan is to take some pictures of the car while it’s sagged, upload it to this post, don’t fix the struts, and just let the compressor ‘overwork’. Will update again once the compressor dies and let everyone know how long it took to die. At least this way, anyone else experiencing the same issue might have a case study as to what happens when they resort to not fixing the struts and maybe simply fixing the compressor.

Seriously tho, I honestly think that Porsche should cover the labor with air suspension issues. It’s such a common problem based on all the research I did in the last week and so cost prohibitory to fix when out of warranty, which only blemishes their reputation.

happy holidays all!

 

If you do decide to replace the struts eventually research Arnott. They come with a lifetime warranty and at least you'd from then on only need to pay for labor. (On installation it needs a smooth piece of air tube, so I cut off a little bit. So you can inspect if they did it properly it would no longer have an insertion mark line. That is if they did not replace the entire line as well).
Happy Holidays to you and yours.

 

Here are some of my thoughts:
- if one front side leaks air, usually the other side will show as sagging some as well (geometry changes and lowering on passenger side results in driver side being lower too), so if you see both sagging, does not mean both are leaking air (but always great to check).
- Now, what is leaking? I would have to ask few questions:
1. When you replaced the valve block and the shocks, did you use new valve line connectors? Did you try to remove them and re install again? Reason I am asking is because inside each of those brass connectors (ones that you have to screw onto the block or onto the shock), inside them are two tiny very thin gasket seals. Those rubber seals are extremely easy to cut/puncture. If one seal is damaged in any way, your system will leak. Since you say the back stays ok, to me it would mean front side valve block air line connectors, front shock air line connectors need to be checked. These are not easiest to put back into place, each having a tiny groove to live in, and you dont want these twisted, or kinked when you put them into their grooves either. So you will have to get some magnification (I suggest from Amazon), turn light on, inspect each of the seals inside each connector (this means removing and gently spreading the rings, remove connectors, inspect, then reinstall gently). Best is always just buy new ones, but it is up to you.
2. What is the vendor for the valve block? I installed non OEM one, and replaced it 3 times due to internal faults, where front was sagging, suspension would not inflate/deflate, etc.
3. What relay are you using on the pump? New? Or used one. As soon as you do any suspension work, replace the solenoid, it can be a culprit for weird stuff going on, especially with the air compressor.
4. After the shock replacement, have you done the soapy water test again to make sure the connectors to air lines, and the centers of each shock do not leak air? Spray to make sure they do not leak.
5. Have you made sure to be extremely clean when handling each shock and line/connector? Very important.
6. Have you checked air lines after disconnect from air shocks, that they do not have a crack? what I did was to try pull some vacuum on each line after I removed from valve block and from shock (plugged one end, used mity vac to pull vacuum to see if holds).
7. Have you replaced the compressor? the compressor also has a valve connection, which can leak, piston that can leak, and can be a contributor to leaking (especially if valves do not close all the way, etc, sometimes in combination with valve block issues).
8. Have you used PIWIS2 to diagnose to see which codes come up? Normally, PIWIS2 will give you very specific info on component not working as intended, telling you voltage, pressure, etc.

This is not super complicated stuff but has to be meticulously checked one step at a time.
There is also the possibility that the shock is leaking due to faulty bellows (normally it happens when they are worn out....visual inspection tells you if they are new rubber, or old reused rubber).
Also, the shock can be leaking from its tip side seal. The seal is a very thin (maybe 1 or 2 sixteenth of an inch), at the top of the shock, and has to be replaced with new one (prefer OEM from Porsche), to prevent this leak. you cannot check for this I do not believe....maybe if you try to look up some threads on suspension on this forum, one guy said you can test, but it was not clear to me. he describes removing and replacing the seal itself. Hope you can find (I do not have a link).

Trying to think of anything else, but nothing else comes to mind. Remember, do not over think this. Valve block, shocks, have valves that open/close. If they work ok, they isolate each shock/line. If air leaks out, it can be the line, shock, air connector seal, valve block internal fault, bellows, shock top air seal, compressor.
I am sure this is not helping but unfortunately this sucker is a diagnosis type of item.
See what PIWIS2 codes tell you.

 

The bellows on the strut does not hold any air and is not responsible for any air management. It's only purpose is to keep dirt out of the actual shock absorber shaft. If it's damaged, by all means replace it, but that's not going to be the source of any air leak. If your mechanic just replaced the bags and kept the OEM shock, there's a chance they reassembled the shock and bag assembly incorrectly. Either nicking an o-ring, not lubing them correctly, or otherwise compromised the seal. To check for a leak at the top bushing or o-ring, pop the hood and look for the strut hat. It's pretty easy to see. The center bushing will have a large nut and washer, with a rubber bushing visible underneath. Spray that area and look for bubbles appearing/growing. If the bubbles are coming from the rubber bushing, the bushing is leaking. If they're coming from under the washer or nut, it's the top o-ring.

I went through two valve blocks (one from Arnott, one from the dealer - Continental) before I got one that was good. I had the same issue - front was sagging overnight.

The other thread about removing/rebuilding the struts is here.

 

While I'm still happy with how it's functioning, lately I noticed the boot has torn up. I contacted Arnott on whether I should replace the boot but was told it is not necessary. Happy with their responsiveness I just sat on it but the strut boot seems to be not that great quality, too short, or both, and tears quite early on, 11/2 years or less than 10k miles....

 

tyrells860@gmail.com

 

Do you mind sharing 970 manual, please. Thanks