What pressure are you getting from the suspension module?

 

not sure I did purchase a relay from autohausaz for $5 , it’s a Bosch relay same part number I got from the dealer. Could it be a bad relay? The dealer wanted $69 for theirs

 

I doubt it.
Relays are just on/off switches. They either work or they don’t. (The reason a new one is specified with a new compressor is that it is assumed that the compressor has burnt out due to a leak & it running too long to compensate and attempt to refill the system. This constant current demand can cause the relay to stick on (actually to weld the contacts closed)).
So, in summary, you need further information. Hence my question about the system pressure.

 

Thanks ! , Guessing my best course of action is bringing it to the dealer , or Indy for a diagnosis ?

 

Probably the best idea if you don’t have a scan tool.
Did they refil the system when you replaced the shocks? (The compressor won’t do it by itself).
I’d also spray everything again. Valve block. Shocks etc. It’s not unheard of for replacement shocks to leak.

 

they did not refill the system as the compressor did it itself within the hour of everything being plugged in. Whenever the compressor turns on everything works smoothly.

 

I think that’s your issue.
the compressor won’t pump the whole system back up to 17bar.

 

so it’s sporadically supposed to give me the chassis system failure ? Like yesterday I went for a quick drive and the light didn’t go off but last night I went to the pharmacy and on the way back it worked fine , the light went off and it pumped up fine

 

Yes.
I replaced my compressor due to a fault with it (the vent valve, which is an integral part of the compressor, was sticking).
Anyway that was giving me a chassis system failure.
I diagnosed the fault for quite a while and discovered quite a bit about the system.
I use Icarscan. Best £150 spent ever as I used it on several other cars before I bought the PTT. (Other tools are available - I’d recommend a PIWIS 2 clone for not a lot of $ more).
Having that data available was very useful. Everything pointed to the valve block, but it wasn’t that at fault. By not changing that block, the tool saved the cost of its own purchase price twice over.
So, back to the system.
l logged pump pressures, pump temperature, strut pressures, voltages, position sensors and and relay on/off signals, valve block positions and a bunch of other things that the tool can see and record.
When you turn the car on, it does a quick system check and levels the car when you close the doors. The pump runs for a few seconds. Remember, the struts are filled with nitrogen from the tank, not air from the pump, but the system pressure sensor is in the compressor.
Assuming that you don’t change the level or drive mode, it runs checks at fixed time intervals. One happens at 30 mins where the pump runs briefly, the accumulator tank valve opens and closes and pressure measurements are taken.
This test, if the system isn’t fully filled, will illuminate the chassis system fault light and it goes into limp mode on the level control. It will reset on start but the module retains all the data on why it last went into limp mode.
So, if that fits with what you are seeing (roughly 30 mins into a drive/sequence of driving with a short stop) then that’s what the problem may be.
It might not be, you’ll never know without the data from the car’s computers.
However what is certain is that if the system has lost nitrogen, the compressor will not pump it back up to 17 bar.
It takes a few minutes to recharge the system, it is one connection and a click on the PIWIS (or Icarscan).
Nitrogen is super cheap. £25 for a cylinder.
A compressor is £1500.

 

so it’s definitely not a DIY, type of thing ? Should I ask the Indy to just fill the system to 17 bar? Or just ask them to diagnose it and provide them with the symptoms I stated ? Or would it be easier to just bring it to the dealer and ask them to fill the system ? The compressor is also not turning on after I turn off the car if the chasis system failure light is on , if the light is off which happens every once in a while then the compressor works fine and turns on after turning off the car.

 

Yes you can DIY. You just need the right tools.

 

These updated relays for compressors make them work different, I would go back to other relay as it is not likely your problem, and get one for the car. OEM one.
I Think your problem is more leaks (bad compressor, valve block), or some sensors (height sensors on upper control arms), or your faults have not been cleared from ECU.

 

Since I've been having trouble clearing PCM/CDR codes, I have been in contact with Foxwell support. (It's still within the 1 year warranty period). They are allowing me to return the NT644Pro because of this issue. They advised me to get a NT510 Elite from seller OBDZON, shipped by Amazon, claiming it can control special functions on the PASM. Very good pricing, I had to ****** one up. (There's even a $10 off coupon available that lowered the price down to $169.88).

 

Nitrogen is not needed. The system itself is not really a closed system. The "out" port on the valve block vents to the atmosphere, not the tank. The air tank is there and kept pressurized to make filling of the suspension faster than if just by compressor. It does not store nitrogen. Well, I mean if you initially fill the system with nitrogen, it will store it, but once it starts purging it will eventually be replaced by filtered ambient air

 

I believe the system does have to be refilled, I had brought in my car to the dealer to check for leaks since it was slammed on the front shocks in March. They refilled the system, the car raised but did not hold the air. I have also attached a link to a YT video on how I believe it is done.