When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
the map sensor is that only sensor sitting on the passenger side runner of that rubber Y-pipe before the throttle body... yeah, rule of thumb, nothing solid ever touches that tip... However, a Map sensor cleaning would be ideal at this point, haha.. By the way, i'll be posting up pics of the crc "entry point" for you in a bit..
So for the CRC intake valve cleaner, the method of action it takes specifically is that it makes the carbon buildup into a looser state... The PEA is the main detergent in the chemical make up works to attack the carbon build up further when it is heated up. You dont have to worry about anything getting lodged between the valves or anything like that because the chemicals purpose is to desolidify into a gel-like suspension. The key part that really takes off all the gunk is the highway miles that you do after the first day of doing the treatment. The PEA actually stayed stuck onto the carbon for a couple of days and it will continue to work through out the couple of days. As far as the liqui-moly engine oil flush, you just add to the oil and its purpose and method of action is that it acts as a lubricating detergent... Specifically for the panamera turbos and V8 models, if you got higher miles(+60k miles), you'll actually do some good in preventing any clogging at the bottom of the oil pan where the sump inlet sits. When you get good flow there, you'll have a very happy running oil system. Afterwards, drain the oil and let it drain out warm for as long as you can to get as much of the detergent out(but no harm done if you dont with ligui-moly). If you wanna be super ****, dump in new oil, let the engine cycle through and redrain the oil.
How long (mile wise) would you leave the liquid moly in prior to the oil change? I am looking forward to doing the intake spray and this, car has approx. 120k miles and should be a big difference.
For any engine flush you would normally warm up the car, add contents if bottle to engine oil, wait 5 or 10 minutes idling, then you would turn off car and change both oil and filter.
Engine flushes are not meant to be driven with, it could damage engine driving with it. They are very concentrated chemicals meant to stir up sludge, and mix it with current oil into suspension, so you can drain it out oil filter us a must. During dtmrain, make sure you let it drain really well for 10 minutes until just drips.
so dont drive with additicmve back of bottle has specific instructions for each brand.
Originally Posted by murci930
How long (mile wise) would you leave the liquid moly in prior to the oil change? I am looking forward to doing the intake spray and this, car has approx. 120k miles and should be a big difference.
Just checked mine today. 12 PTT with just over 40k on it. My ideal has gotten rough and I have started throwing a p4012. This is what I found could this be causing the rough idle? New AOS is already in order, and I got a new down stream 02 sensor to try and fix the code.
Rough/Fluctuating idle, stumbling even, engine fully warmed up, in gear, at a stop.
Ours developed this concern. I did the intake valve cleaning with CRC valve cleaner. Drove around a few days now, and as of yesterday afternoon still happening. Seems like the engine is fighting a stall at a stop and in gear. This is with engine fully warmed up. I did not test to see if it happens driving it engine cold or warming up. Seemed better when the engine is in P or N, but didn't let it sit like that long because I got drive through and didn't want the food to get cold.
If the rain lets up I'm thinking of pulling the plugs to see what they can tell me. (I know it's old school). Lucky I left the design/engine covers off, I think I have ready access to all the plugs/coils.
If you have a rough idle, seemingly accompanied by P0171 and P0174 on low throttle just a little after starting off, definitely disconnect the battery terminal lugs and clean up the contact areas real nice with a battery tool. The old smooth Panny is back!
Hey guys! Getting ready to do my Intermediate Service this spring. 2014 P4S with about 75 000 km (~47 000 miles). Bit early based on mileage but would prefer to do early and be proactive. Oil change will be with Liqui Moly 5W-40.
I bought the car when it was 2.5 years old and all the service is up-to-date. Oil has been changed every 7500km (5000 miles).
Wondering about the LM Pro-Line Engine Flush before the oil change? It was previously discussed in this post but can anyone provide an update? Safe? Worth it?
my personal opinion on flushes is not to use them.
You should never put your car in position to need one. If you do, its too late.
Sometimes, cars that are not taken care of, will get all gunked up but will continue to work. Then someone intends to do a good thing for a car, puts in a flush fluid, then all the built up gunk is loosened causing all sorts of issues internally, to the seals, other places.
Do what you want. If you know history of the car, i recommend you stay away from flushes. Ju are da owner though.
Thanks for this! I was uncomfortable hence the question. Mixed reviews when you read on-line. I’ve owned the car since 21 000km (13 000 miles) and know the full service history since new. I’m steering clear and simply “flushing” my engine with new oil every 7500km! 😁
I will also be doing plugs/coil and a PDK fluid change with this spring service. I’ve been reviewing your DIY’s so thanks for these! For the PDK service, looks like I can simply change the fluid and leave the pan/filter alone?
Seems to be 3 solutions per the posts. New cluster, alternator or PDK. The PDK case affected certain gears. if the fluctuations are for any gear, the first two are a good place to start looking.
Hi guys, I know this is an old thread but I have just started to think that this might not be 'normal'. Also during steady driving, I saw the most at 6 or 7 gear, also maybe a little bit at lower gear as well. Has changing the Air-oil separator fix the problem for everyone?
2010 PTT at 65950mi, everything else seems to be fine, except sometimes I see a sudden dip in rpm when I hit on gas from idle after waiting for lights.
