Hi guys.

Have a 2010 Panamera 4s. Im very familiar on the in's and out's of Benz and BMW air ride systems. Panamera is throwing me for a loop and i want to make sure im changing the correct items. I have an Autel maxisys elite scanner/diag machine. Im able to run some tests, however something still smells fishy to me. I've also been reading all this stuff about it being a closed system and in order for it to work properly i need to get air in there somehow first.. (why is there a compressor then, just compressing the air already in there?)

The cars front is slammed down (air struts probably leaking, just want to verify), I lifted up one side, let wheel free-hang, and ran my autel (replaced air bag initial fillup) just to test if it would put air in there (front left only as example). It does, i can see the wheel start moving downward, hear compressor running ok, then after 2-3 seconds it'll stop, and the message i will get it accumulator pressure too low.

I can also run this other diag/test, it will adjust the rear, compressor will run etc, but then shuts off, will not even attempt to do anything to the front, (2-3 sec not enough for it to cutout for overheat or anything), and accumulator pressure too low again error... Thats where its throwing me a bit for a loop, on the benz and bmws i can keep the compressor running however long within reason, and watch temps to not overheat it...

Compressor sounds fine, just like it refuses to work longer, and then throws the accumulator message.

Car was at the porsche dealer for a recall and he had a diag done before coming to me, i just got the papers today. They said valve unit, valves blocked to front. Both front air struts leaking. OK, so how did i get it to inflate some air no issue when i ran the free hang wheel and initial fillup mode. I dont like throwing parts at things.

Lastly, another thing throwing me off is people saying schrader valves, and to inflate struts from the top with line disconnected or can do testing at valve unit.. i only see air fittings, no schrader valves, is there some adapter piece im failing to see so i can get shop air in there? Does the accumulator need to be pre filled with some shop air to let me get to more testing of the system? As in the compressor wont fill up the accumulator on its own?

I want to go by Porsches diag, swap the valveblock, pop the 2 front struts in, however im worried it wont fill up on its own if im getting these other issues and accumulator problem.

Thanks for anyone who throws some help or understanding my way. So far everything is ***-backwards to what im used to on a Benz or BMW system.

 

Go to my thread about diagnosing air suspension, then replacing the air shocks. Read it all.
Panamera Air Suspension System Info & Troubleshooting
DIY: Panamera Air Suspension Shock Replacement (front)

After you read, you will visualize how air suspension works on panamera.
From what you describe and what dealer said, I am quite certain your shock or both are leaking and must be replaced, not repairable.
Accumulator is name for the air tank that keeps compressed air. Your compressor turns on, starts compressing, and detects pressure in tank/accumulator is way too low, throws code to you.
Compressor wont run yoo long or it overheats.
Anyway. My threads explain operatio in detail. Go read. You will be glad you did, bookmark it.
update when you can.
fyi valve block easy to change. Compressor easy to change. Car will lift itself after leaks fixed.
fyi, you should disable air suspension any time you lift the wheels off the ground. Stuff can be damaged.

 

 

Pull8ng fuse for compressor wont work. Comoressor not needed to raise or lower car, it is only used to maintain pressure for air tank. Ec uh for air suspension does controlling. Put sticky note on shifter with how to disable it after they park car to do work.

 

After replacing my front shocks car won't lift itself. Won't even try to level out. Front is slammed. Get the car too warning and sometimes chassis error. Any suggestions to force the air into the bags. Seems like the car isn't even trying to fill or level any of the bags. Is there some sort of protection mechanism that tells the car not to filll the bags of the car is slammed.

Thanks in advance.

 

Height sensors on each shock tell eco that front too low, and cause compressor to kick in to reach pressure in air tank, so valve block can open to put air into bags. For that to happen front sensors have to work, compressor must work and valve block must work. Leaks would make things longer, but real bad leaks could cause air bags not to fill. If you are sure all pieces work after you diagnose. Question shocks. Recheck electrical connectors to shocks, make sure they're plugged in right and all the way, that compressor activates (should start when u start your car within seconds, you will hear it when you stand near pass side muffler). Do methodical check. Verify your electrical connections right, check electrical Connections to level sensors, as they must be plugged right to open or close solenoids that allow air into shocks. Make sure valve block connected and no leaks. Then suspect shocks. Few rmt folks stayed their shock had to be sent back. Even when I did my front, pass side shock would not life and had to send back for replacement. Be nice to them but insist overnight if you determine shock needs change.
Keep us updated.

 

Thank Ciaka.

Here are the things I do know:
1.) I made a typo earlier...i replaced the Drivers side front shock. I have previously done the passengers side a few years ago, but did not have these current issues.
2.) The compressor is fairly new, within the past 5 years.
3.) The valve block is new within the past 2 years (same time I replaced the passenger shock)
4.) I'm confident there are no leaks, I feel this is a computer algorithm issue? I've noticed in the past that if the car is slammed in one corner that it took me a few start/stop cycles to get the air to pump the bag, but this time it hasn't worked.
5.) Currently NONE of the bags will fill. all 4 corners seem to be slammed and unresponsive.

Questions:
1.) Do I need to recalibrate the system? is there a chance that it now things it's baseline is super low? Can pulling the battery or clearing the OBD codes help reset to factory height?
2.) Can I buy the air adapter and try to nitro the bags up, or do I need the porsche tool to activate the solenoid? Any other way to just give the bag SOME air to help it?
3.) Can i fool the system by jacking up the 4 corners to what looks sport + mode, but then select comfort mode so that the bags fill? I don't know if this will work since the corners go up and down and the jack would prevent the "down" motion.

I'm going to take the drivers side wheel off again today and check the height sensor connections, the air connections, and the electrical connections. Not sure if one bag failing would make the entire system fail?

Thanks.

 

Update. I heard the air compressor turn on. But then after it was done, I heard a click and then the dash error for chassis turned on. No bags inflated.

 

I think I know what may have happened. After testing it out (will require me to take the shock out), will report back. If I think I know what it is, could be useful for next person.

 

Provided height sensors are undamaged, compressor good, electrical connections to shocks are ok, fuses, etc, you will inflate.
Unless shock nternally bad.
Do keep us updated. Thank you.

 

I haven't gotten a chance to take the car apart (waiting on low profile jack...car slammed too low for other jacks I have).

I didn't "snap" the original gas shock into the clips (see pic) on the Bellow I bought (I didn't buy a full assembly, just the Bellow unit). For some reason I thought they would auto snap Into place , but then realized the entire chamber is aired, not a double bladder along the walls (obviously I made that up in my head...no really, I'm a gear head, just a **** sometimes).

Hopefully that's the issue, will know in a few days.

 

Thanks for update. This will be good update when you get the rest done.

 

Sorry for the delay. Here is an update....takeaway: it's all working now!

1. These bags have a few parts that can fail from cheap o-rings on the strut shaft to leaks on the top bushing to leaks in the bladder. I would think it would absolutely suck if the cheapo o-rings on the strut shaft were causing folks to replace the entire unit! Talk about the Porsche Tax (...or Pay to Play LOL). I'm sure it's mostly an issue with the bellows and the upper bearing seal than the o-ring seals themselves...but figured I'd throw that out here.
2. Ciaka, thanks so much for your write-ups and responses.
3. Turns out that I didn't properly seat the shock into the clips on the bellow unit (remember, I didn't use a fully assembled unit, the bellow only unit can be had for cheap if your original shock (gas charged damper) is still good. Pic of it seated properly:
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4. These are GREAT low profileJacks (amazon) that fit right into the jack point areas, even when the car is slammed (very helpful)
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      ​​​​​​​
5. I didn't take as much apart as the FSM or Ciaka recommended, and your mileage may vary...but here is a pic of all i took apart with some notes.
   1. Originally I took the windshield wipers off to get to the 3rd, drivers side shock bolt; however, upon my second run at this, I did NOT. I found with the right flexy extension, and warm plastic so it wouldn't snap, i was able to get to the bolt with no issue (even when I re-torqued it). btw, I just left the bolt sitting inside the "hole" it was in so that when I put the shock back in, it was already aligned. It's a blind hole, but only the size of the socket...easy peasy.
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         you can see the ratchet in the center
         
         cool flexi joint
         
6. When taking apart the overall shock assembly area, I only took off the bolts holding the shock in, the upper control arm bolt (need a puller), the plastic air shield on the lower control arm, and the 10mm (or was it a 12) bolt holding the hydraulics to the aluminum suspension arm, electric and air connectors (height potentiometer, shock air/electronics) and the sway bar (keep it at stock height and it will come right out).
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      didn't take apart ANY of the brake components.
      
      view of what it looks like with the items i took off...please note, keep the assembly in a position that doesn't pull on the hydraulic lines and you'll be fine. Typically cocked to the rear of the vehicle.
7. ​​​​​​​With creative up/down of two jacks (one under the suspension arm) and the other under the jack point of the car, you should be able to get the assembly in whatever position you require to make it work. Please keep in mind, I have an assortment of odd tools that allow me to get into tight places (shallow sockets, etc.)
8. Yes, the alignment is still spot on
9. Instead of string to compress the shock, i used my motorcycle tie downs...worked GREAT.
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10. Fooling the computer to actually fill the shocks
    1. OK, this one is tough to explain as it appeared to work in a very random fashion. all 4 corners of my car were slammed at one point (the cars decision, not mine)...hence the air tank needed to fill more than a few times as well as the compressor cooling off (otherwise it didn't work). It took A LOT of restarts (shut door, turn on car, get typical air chassis and low suspension warnings, turn off car, open door, close door, turn car back on...many times of that cycle. Also pressed the height button randomly, turned off and on suspension control.
    2. Honestly a lot of random back and forth. after 2 days and multiple compressor rest cycles and jack positions I was able to get the car working "normally". without the proper Porsche computer tool (i don't have), it's one of those things where you just get lucky.
    3. All that given, follow what Ciaka did and leave the car lifted to fill the air bag with reserve air on the first start. I think mine got messed up as I didn't have the gas charged strut properly seated to the bellow and hence the air pushed into a bladder with no seal! Probably confused the computer. When I did my passenger side a few years back, his wasn't an issues.

All in all, if I was to do it again, it would be a quick repair


oh on a side note, PM if you are interested in the Evomsit performance cable (ups HP and torque close to 100 on both). I am using the OBD programmed version and have the cable version to sell (evomsit looked it over and said it's all in spec).