oil pressur sensor (sender) replacement info
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oil pressur sensor (sender) replacement info
I just spent the last day and a half doing the job.
2 screws, simple enough, but left me feeling like I just performed a tonsils surgery, on a patient, through his anooz.
I will get some info together, but was not a simple job at all, since you have to virtually do this blind.
2 screws, simple enough, but left me feeling like I just performed a tonsils surgery, on a patient, through his anooz.
I will get some info together, but was not a simple job at all, since you have to virtually do this blind.
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I just spent the last day and a half doing the job.
2 screws, simple enough, but left me feeling like I just performed a tonsils surgery, on a patient, through his anooz.
I will get some info together, but was not a simple job at all, since you have to virtually do this blind.
2 screws, simple enough, but left me feeling like I just performed a tonsils surgery, on a patient, through his anooz.
I will get some info together, but was not a simple job at all, since you have to virtually do this blind.
so in other words, it was tight and cramp?
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Symptom was while driving (at a stop, after car warmed up fully), get error oil pressure fault. The oil pressure gauge reads zero on left (analog needle), and the digital readout (if you configured your cluster to show it), shows dashes, no numbers, and at bottom of right display, orange oil symbol flashes for about 15 seconds.
Shut the car down, and watch the flashing oil symbol. Once the symbol flashing turns off, you start car and as if nothing was wrong at all.
Once I replaced the oil pressure sensor, the temp showed much lower, and the oil pressure (while fully warm, at idle) was showing much higher.
With defective switch, my pressure at idle was at about 1.0 or 1.1 sometimes. With new switch in, at idle (same conditions), pressure was showing at about 1.6. Big difference.
Shut the car down, and watch the flashing oil symbol. Once the symbol flashing turns off, you start car and as if nothing was wrong at all.
Once I replaced the oil pressure sensor, the temp showed much lower, and the oil pressure (while fully warm, at idle) was showing much higher.
With defective switch, my pressure at idle was at about 1.0 or 1.1 sometimes. With new switch in, at idle (same conditions), pressure was showing at about 1.6. Big difference.
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Saying tight and cramped would be way overstating the space you have to work with, for surse.
Forgot to mention, while doing all that, in that space, you have to do it blind too.
Forgot to mention, while doing all that, in that space, you have to do it blind too.
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Symptom was while driving (at a stop, after car warmed up fully), get error oil pressure fault. The oil pressure gauge reads zero on left (analog needle), and the digital readout (if you configured your cluster to show it), shows dashes, no numbers, and at bottom of right display, orange oil symbol flashes for about 15 seconds.
Shut the car down, and watch the flashing oil symbol. Once the symbol flashing turns off, you start car and as if nothing was wrong at all.
Once I replaced the oil pressure sensor, the temp showed much lower, and the oil pressure (while fully warm, at idle) was showing much higher.
With defective switch, my pressure at idle was at about 1.0 or 1.1 sometimes. With new switch in, at idle (same conditions), pressure was showing at about 1.6. Big difference.
Shut the car down, and watch the flashing oil symbol. Once the symbol flashing turns off, you start car and as if nothing was wrong at all.
Once I replaced the oil pressure sensor, the temp showed much lower, and the oil pressure (while fully warm, at idle) was showing much higher.
With defective switch, my pressure at idle was at about 1.0 or 1.1 sometimes. With new switch in, at idle (same conditions), pressure was showing at about 1.6. Big difference.
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Crap. I never remembered to post diy for this.
the oil pressure sender unit (sensor), is located on the front if engine block. It is on passenger side, above the ac compressor. If you look at the oil cap, draw line down from it, on front of engine. The sender is actually in a recessed area of the engine. It is held by I believe one torx screw, t25 tI hink.. maybe t20.
other a biach taking screw put due to tight spacing. Remove the turbo intake tube, move the electrical harness at front of engine, over, loosen it. You will also be better off taking the t on the throttle body, and loosen those hoses attached to its bottom. You can squeeze your hand down there, feel for it. If you have a snake camera, it's best. I needed it to be able to put the fasten screw back in, on install. Put a small piece of shop towel into the torx hole, so the screw is tightly on, or it will fall off and you will be hunting for it, for 20 minutes.
The electrical connector is also a biach. I think coming from bottom. Has a clip you need to loosen. Must be gentle or the clip will break, and new sensor may have a loose connection.
take time. Hope this helps. Let me know once you found it.
the oil pressure sender unit (sensor), is located on the front if engine block. It is on passenger side, above the ac compressor. If you look at the oil cap, draw line down from it, on front of engine. The sender is actually in a recessed area of the engine. It is held by I believe one torx screw, t25 tI hink.. maybe t20.
other a biach taking screw put due to tight spacing. Remove the turbo intake tube, move the electrical harness at front of engine, over, loosen it. You will also be better off taking the t on the throttle body, and loosen those hoses attached to its bottom. You can squeeze your hand down there, feel for it. If you have a snake camera, it's best. I needed it to be able to put the fasten screw back in, on install. Put a small piece of shop towel into the torx hole, so the screw is tightly on, or it will fall off and you will be hunting for it, for 20 minutes.
The electrical connector is also a biach. I think coming from bottom. Has a clip you need to loosen. Must be gentle or the clip will break, and new sensor may have a loose connection.
take time. Hope this helps. Let me know once you found it.
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I could really use some help on this. I would like to locate the electrical connector and try cleaning the contacts to see if that is my problem. I tried a snake camera and I cannot see the sensor in the area you are talking about.
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Knowing the capabilities of @ciaka , if he says something is tough in any way or reason I will accept it as such:. If it takes him 20 mins it may take me 2 hours. If it takes him a day it will likely take me a week.
With that knowledge and how many difficulties he mention, it may be best to verify this is the cause of your problem(s) before even tackling it in the first place. (Says the man who replaced a HPFP over a loose high pressure fuel pressure sensor connector).
With that knowledge and how many difficulties he mention, it may be best to verify this is the cause of your problem(s) before even tackling it in the first place. (Says the man who replaced a HPFP over a loose high pressure fuel pressure sensor connector).
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Here you go clc3251, I found some pics and posted what I have with some diagrams to locate the sucker. Dont have time to edit and annotate now, but some time soon. This will get you on your way. look at pics carefully to know what you are lookking at. The light shines onto the opening for the sensor once removed. all done by feel unless you have a camera to go there.
Hope it helps.
Here is the DIY (to be). CLICK HERE
Hope it helps.
Here is the DIY (to be). CLICK HERE