So my boss just picked up a replacement for his 2011 turbo (he got a Urus). He told me to take the turbo for a few day and let him know what I was going to pay him. It has about 38k miles and has been well cared for. That being said, I am going to have a PPI done by the independent shop that I normally work with. What are the specific issues and areas that I should have them focus on: suspension, cam bolts, others?

 

Options you want on the car:

I forget what its called, but key fob option so you don't actually have to use the key to access the doors and turn the car on - its actually an option.... - deal breaker for me not to have

Burmester - deal breaker not to have
Sport Exhaust - desired option but not a deal breaker
Heated and cooled seats with full rear climate control - deal breaker not to have
Rear automatic visors
Sport Chrono - deal breaker not to have
Lane Assist
Adaptive Cruise control
Carbon fiber interior trim is the best....there is an awesome rare matte light brown wood as well. The pin striped wood with exterior blue color is a nice uncommon combo.

Carbon fiber steering wheel to match carbon fiber trim with heater option- deal breaker for me not to have but not really a big deal. The sport steering wheel with large paddles would be fine too, but honestly the full function wheel paddles work great when you get used to them.

PASM - air suspension - deal breaker not to have
PDCC - active roll bars - fairly rare on non S models - deal breaker for me not to have
PVT+ - torque vectoring rear - fairly rare and valuable option - deal breaker for me not to have

Sport Design Exterior Package -GTS like appearance package - fairly rare - deal breaker not to have on light exterior colors

Black optic trim - black exterior trim for windows and other things
Powerkit - super rare option that givesTurbo S power levels

To get full book price, the car should have 99% of these options.

If its fairly loaded, and doesn't have a stupid interior color and trim, you should be able to get that car in the mid to high $40's.

Things to check:

Get all Service history available.

Make sure all recalls have been performed, turbos, cam adjuster bolt, issues with coolant pipes, recent issues with AC core or something. Check the VIN on the PCA website.

Check that brakes don't need to be replaced right away. If they need to be replaced, reduction in price. Same thing for the tires.

Test the battery for age and voltage.

By 40,000 miles, you should have had plugs and all fluids changed once - if not reduction in price.

Check for squeaks in the front suspension and or check out the bushings for wear. They wear out. IF you find lots of wear and bushing shrinkage, major reduction in price.

Make sure the air suspension systems are not leaking. You can use a little soapy water on the shocks. Make sure balancing motors don't run overly long after you get in and out of the car. If you find issues - major reduction in price.

Make sure the oil separator isn't needing replacement. This typically will mean the car is burning oil a bit faster than usual, and there is a lot of vacuum taking the oil cap of while the car is running. Be careful checking that.

Make sure if the plugs haven't been replaced, that you check for any surging under load, for misfires and or issues with old coil packs.

I would take the car through its paces without fear, and make sure the car drives ok.

 

Thanks for such an informative post. I pulled the build sheet for the car and it is well optioned. I am fortunate to be getting it at a friends and family price, so as long as there are no major issues, such as control arm bushings etc., at the inspection, I should be all set.

 

You're going to love it! Post some pics when it's yours.

 

Lack of Burmester, Totally not a deal breaker. Most if not all the other things are true

 

After experiencing a Burmester, I would be hard pressed to buy one without, it would need to really have some serious goodies

 

It's a $5500 option, well at least today it is. Much easier to find cars without it.

 

Upper control arm will be nearly impossible to diagnose without removing wheel and air strut assembly, but you will notice the ride quality when going over bumps and dips in the road, make sure to drive after sitting over night and cold, and after it warms up a bit to listen for any increase/reduction in front suspension noices ie; creaking, crunching, metal to metal clanking. Plugs and coils should also be done soon along with filters, also check accessory belt wear, should be fine but oddly had premature wear on my 2011 PTT so replaced that belt. Hope this helps

 

Thanks for all the replies. All the major components on the car checked out.

I will need new brakes and rotors and the readings from the battery were low. There is about a six-inch crack on the bottom of the bumper that was disclosed to me. It is hard to see unless you know it is there and are looking for it. I've got to figure out if I am going to do anything about that or just keep it as is for now. There are a few other small cosmetic issues, such as the chrome pieces of the driver side window controls being broken off and a gouge in the leather on the passenger door panel. The seller is also trying to locate the tow cap for the front bumper.

I’ve got kids and live in the northeast, so I ordered some Weathertech matts for the front, rear and trunk. I did some research on the window buttons and it looks like I can either buy the entire unit (and pop the old one out via accessing it from the front speaker) or just replace the actual buttons. Anyone done either of these? Despite the cosmetic issues, I really enjoy the car and am looking forward to driving it much more.

 

I've replaced both the broken switches, then the entire unit. I found a source for an aftermarket unit that was affordable - not OEM quality but it still looks and works fine but only I drive my car.

 

EXACTLY. I can't imagine NOT have Burmester especially being a music lover. I'm not owning another P-car without it.