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I believe the FVD is written to your Vin so youd have to remove the tune in order to write it to another car. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong
That's correct. I think they will allow it and it would save you alot off retail since unit is already in hand. They have awesome customer service....not positive though
FVD Software is made in house in Germany by our engineers. But what may be confusing is that we both use the same OBD2 Handheld Tuning device which is made by DimSport in Italy. So the tool is universal, the software tuning is proprietary.
__________________ FVD Brombacher - USA
Contact me directly to get the latest FVD forum member discount!
FVD Software is made in house in Germany by our engineers. But what may be confusing is that we both use the same OBD2 Handheld Tuning device which is made by DimSport in Italy. So the tool is universal, the software tuning is proprietary.
Hey Rhonda,
shoot me a PM with more details, I am ready to make the switch to a full ECU tune and report back what the results are here and on YouTube.
Mod2fame, theres another thing you can try out too before all this. Hit up RaceChip in Brea, CA and ask if you can get the "updated" tune with the better mapping for the panamera.. Tell them you have been having a lot of the same hiccups everyone is reporting on.... Hit me up whenever you get a chance on PM's.... I got a lot of info for ya.. enjoyed your channel man. -Alex
I have a chipwerke and for the money I'd do it again. The issues are minimal relative to the power gained. I just have a greater goal in mind so I need more power....
I believe the FVD is written to your Vin so youd have to remove the tune in order to write it to another car. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong
You are correct, our software is encrypted to the vehicle and Vin. It is made specifically for each modification for the individual vehicle. Our software is not an off the shelf tune (OTS) so it cannot be written to another car.
Originally Posted by Mod2Fame
Hey Rhonda,
shoot me a PM with more details, I am ready to make the switch to a full ECU tune and report back what the results are here and on YouTube.
Just sent a PM. Thanks so much for sharing that video, I really enjoyed it.
__________________ FVD Brombacher - USA
Contact me directly to get the latest FVD forum member discount!
So I am waiting on our friends at IPD to finish up an order for their plenum so I can install and show the difference before installing a full ECU tune. However if been having some fun with the new power, taking on some pretty fast cars and winning.
Kills :
- Exhaust Only 2013 Nissan GTR (video on my YouTube channel 🤫
So I am waiting on our friends at IPD to finish up an order for their plenum so I can install and show the difference before installing a full ECU tune. However if been having some fun with the new power, taking on some pretty fast cars and winning.
Kills :
- Exhaust Only 2013 Nissan GTR (video on my YouTube channel 🤫
Mod2Fame, I watched your videos over again and noticed a few things.... 1) it appears that your car is smoking a bit... might want to check on coolant levels and/or Air-oil seperator unit going bad and/or Ignition coil packs needing to be replaced(pull them out and check for cracks on the shaft portion). 2) Also to note, for future reference, when your car has a check engine light, the cars fuel mapping and transmission mapping goes into Safe Mode which will not let you go full boost and will prevent high RPM gear changes. You wont go fast until that code is cleared. 3) You'll greatly improve your 60' times by going around the water box(so the front tires do not touch the water), then reverse back into the water box for the rear wheels, turn off traction control, activate launch control, mash pedal all the way down and let it hit the rev limiter(about 4 pops) as the tires warm up and naturally pull you out of the box. Your rear tire temps will be significantly higher, and does most of the grunt work during launch, so its greatly beneficial to get the tires warmed up first. Turn on Traction Control again before you stage the light. This part is critical here and what gave me the BESTT results consistently. Once i stage at the 2nd yellow and the green lights start to go, what I do is once I see the first green, literally, that is when you'll simultaneously push down(left foot) and full throttle, as soon as both foot are both depressed, and you hear the rev limiter(launch control) bounce on the first two "pops," then you just f*ckin SEND IT and let go of the brake pedal... I know this might sound trivial but im trying to tell you that theres a big difference in performance when you do the usual, "Step on brake all the way first... then full throttle" VS. "Simultaneously stepping on both pedals all the way down with a little bit more biased towards the brake pedal). The reasoning for this is that you get full momentum of the turbo spooling up with the velocity of the fuel injection when you need it the most, which is at the launch. I was stuck for awhile trying to get the car to hook up better and this was what I figured out. Hope that helps man. Looking forward to more of your videos, posts, and progress.. again, dont ever hesitate to holler! -Alex
Another good alternative for you since you are getting the full FVD tune is that I think you can lower the launch control RPM's to compensate for your bigger wheels and thinner walled tires..
Mod2Fame, I watched your videos over again and noticed a few things.... 1) it appears that your car is smoking a bit... might want to check on coolant levels and/or Air-oil seperator unit going bad and/or Ignition coil packs needing to be replaced(pull them out and check for cracks on the shaft portion). 2) Also to note, for future reference, when your car has a check engine light, the cars fuel mapping and transmission mapping goes into Safe Mode which will not let you go full boost and will prevent high RPM gear changes. You wont go fast until that code is cleared. 3) You'll greatly improve your 60' times by going around the water box(so the front tires do not touch the water), then reverse back into the water box for the rear wheels, turn off traction control, activate launch control, mash pedal all the way down and let it hit the rev limiter(about 4 pops) as the tires warm up and naturally pull you out of the box. Your rear tire temps will be significantly higher, and does most of the grunt work during launch, so its greatly beneficial to get the tires warmed up first. Turn on Traction Control again before you stage the light. This part is critical here and what gave me the BESTT results consistently. Once i stage at the 2nd yellow and the green lights start to go, what I do is once I see the first green, literally, that is when you'll simultaneously push down(left foot) and full throttle, as soon as both foot are both depressed, and you hear the rev limiter(launch control) bounce on the first two "pops," then you just f*ckin SEND IT and let go of the brake pedal... I know this might sound trivial but im trying to tell you that theres a big difference in performance when you do the usual, "Step on brake all the way first... then full throttle" VS. "Simultaneously stepping on both pedals all the way down with a little bit more biased towards the brake pedal). The reasoning for this is that you get full momentum of the turbo spooling up with the velocity of the fuel injection when you need it the most, which is at the launch. I was stuck for awhile trying to get the car to hook up better and this was what I figured out. Hope that helps man. Looking forward to more of your videos, posts, and progress.. again, dont ever hesitate to holler! -Alex
so there is alot of good info here so I want to respond to each below:
1) I will make this a weekend project and let you know if I find anything
2) this makes sense because I have yet to replicate my 60 -130 times of 9.13 since the check engine light came on. I am averaging 9.4 now
3) REALLY? Traction control on? I always have it off as I assumed this would be the best way to not loose power to the traction system cutting in. I will absolutely try it thou. The reason I didnt go around the water box is because the water was everywhere.
Well boys we are officially ECU Tuned. Who did I go with
the fine people at DME brought me into their offices which are local to me and bench flashed my ECU. Guys, the car feels so clean and all the drivability is like stock. In addition the way the boost comes in is smooth and it holds that boost throughout the rev range.
So the question is, is it faster than the chipwerke piggy back? Driving the car, it is hard to tell if there is more power or not. So I went to the vbox (my dragy died) to get the data i needed. It is too cold in the northeast for dig runs to test 0 to 60 or 1/4 mile, so my only test I can do is 60 - 130 mph.
My previous best is 9.05 seconds however I couldnt seem to ever hit that time again. Consistently the car was closer to 9.3 seconds.
Well now boys and girls we are consistently a 8.9 second 60 - 130mph car with 8.8 seconds being my best so far.
This proves that not only is the car faster, it's more consistently so. I look forward to heading back to the drag strip with some good prep and on full race gas. I think I see 10.9x in my future but we will see.....
I know he has not responded yet, but the piggy back tunes effectively use the stock tune and fool it by changing the inputs from the MAF sensors. This can be somewhat less predictable, especially moving from lean cruise mode to full throttle (the 60-130 results). A full tune has timing, fuel, air and other supporting changes that will consistently deliver the same results. He is getting similar results that I saw with a move from a Racechip to a full ECU tune (EVOMS).
