I'm near to reach that blasted thing, but yet so far it seems!
It looks like there are three pipes "glued" in, at least on the GTS...

 

Wanted to update this thread as it's more appropriate for this measure. I took a piece of aluminum soda can and J-B Welded it with their strongest, but slowest setting stuff that I found at Walmart while there. It was a pain to work as I did not plan beforehand how I would keep it clamped down while it set. Here's the result after sitting from about 12 noon today. (It is 6 pm now).

 

Interesting, I commend you with this and in improvising. Just definitely ghetto as you mentioned. Not sure if you could've applied some around the joint itself, a bead around it.. to further strengthen and in sealing it.

 

that should definitely keep it from going completely catastrophic on you intake hides everything so no worries on how it looks.

 

Thanks for the input guys! Yes, adding a weld bead around it sounds like a good idea that is actually on the instructions. Maybe I’ll do that tomorrow and let it set another day.

I need the engine to be more reliable. The car has been sitting for over a month now, maybe nearing 2. I’ll be so happy if it protects from sudden catastrophic coolant loss. That could definitely do some damage. (I discussed with my son his opinion on this plan. Being the smart teenager I know him to be he asked me what my concerns and pros were. My concern was creating a hot spot as it may act like an insulator. He then asked whether I thought the pros outweigh the cons. I believe so). I close the hood and that Shasta green is “out of site out of mind”. I do believe DogWood is correct that most of it, if not all, will be covered by the intake manifold/distributor as well.

I purchased/collected some Peak Global Lifetime Coolant. (It is not Porsche spec, but is a listed coolant for the car on the Peak website). They provide a cooling system warranty of $1000. If the housing to tube attachment does fail I’ll try to apply for it to cover replacement.

As far as I can deduce the system takes 28 L if anyone was wondering.

I’ll update as time goes on what develops....

 

Be sure you torque those clamps to 3.5 Nm. It’s actually in bold in the instructions on removing and installing it. I’m guessing not doing so in the past has led to all the check engine lights ours experiences almost consistently after a warm or hot engine start.

I don’t think adding a bead around the original joint will help much in preventing the way it pops out. The aluminum brace seems like it has a much better chance. I will most likely add a bead around my makeshift brace as the edges aren’t uniformly attached.

 

Two pictures of the results. I added more J-B Weld around the soda can strip, then waited another 24 hours. I finally reassembled the parts minus the pretty engine covers. Can't see it at all, but comforted it is there.

 

Gives it some bad boy character plus beer talk. The important part is that it works. All else is secondary.

 

I took the fuel rail/distributor off and removed the "y" shaped black coolant tube. I was planning on tackling a thermostat housing upgrade, but I'd still have to remove the water pump which is right in front of it. The belt has to come off and then you need to consider replacing that and possibly the belt tensioner. A whole bunch of parts to order, I figured this was worth a shot. I'm now driving it around but I still get the hot/warm start check engine light with P0068 and P1075 that I reported in the thread with that title. (I drove about a mile and stopped to get gas. Then drove a mile or so to my son's school and as soon as were turning into the parking lot got the chime and check engine light.)

I'll report how it holds up, though I must confess the car may not stay in out possession very much longer with all the troubles we keep experiencing.

 

did you end up using the Evans coolant? Did it work out ok? Is the idea that less pressure = less chance of leak? Mine will need a coolant flush soon anyway so I’m considering this / wondering if it might help with the catastrophic leaking issue

 

I don’t think the failures will be quite that sequential. I have all the service records from when mine (2012 Turbo w 76k miles) was under warranty, and the first one failed after only 18 months / 22k miles. Unfortunately, I think it was then repaired with the same glued-in part, so it may fail again.

of course, it’s also possible that it’s already failed a 2nd time and been replaced with the new / better part, but I don’t have any post-warranty service records. I plan to get a camera down there sometime soon and figure out if I’m lucky enough that it’s already failed a 2nd time and been properly repaired or not

 

Sorry I did not respond until now. I did not see your question until just a few minutes ago, then my cell phone was giving me a hard time to respond so I am now on a computer.

No, I did not. I like the theory of lower pressure, and it makes sense, but looking at the MSDS it's just very pure ethylene glycol. I know users of it swear that it does not raise operating temperatures much, if at all, but the whole purpose of mixing water is to enhance/improve heat transfer, and hence cooling, of the engine.

I have a few things that would complicate that experiment now. I have JB Welded the metal hose that tends to come loose with a piece of aluminum soda can. With what I did making two passes with 48 hours total drying time I think it won't possibly break loose. It's rock hard, and luckily cool to the touch. I don't feel I need to worry that it's going to cause heat accumulation/hot spot. It, the metal hose, was still firmly attached when I tried to manipulate it, before I added the soda can JB Weld.

K-Seal. I confessed I put one bottle in. But after I figured out the capacity is about 28 L I realized one 8oz bottle is too little, so I added another one. (It's still leaking somewhere, but I don't know where beyond the filler cap it seems. I actually have a third bottle on hand but I don't want to risk possibly clogging something. This stuff would supposedly work on a leak between the pipe and the housing, hard parts,so I have no idea if this is what's helping me as well.

I bought a huge amount of Peak Global Lifetime 50/50 mix from Walgreens. 8 gallons which if my math was correct is enough for 30 L, per changing coolant instructions from Porsche Tech Info. I was hoping to change the coolant, after changing the "y" pipe which supposedly stops the leak, but never got around to it. (It did not stop leaking). I have been topping off with the Peak.

Suffices to say I'm really disappointed with reading about all these failures! I'm betting you guys are using the Porsche branded coolant? I mean Dogwood AND Yves both had a failure, it just didn't catastrophically pop out!

 

Hows this holding up? Im hesitant to get new part because it looks like that third hose in the rear is still glued in. The two front ones are bolted

 

That is the OE solution. Nothing to be done. It’s the front one, in particular facing it on the left, that usually comes loose. Nobody complains about the rear hose. Looks like some kind of rubber grommet....

So far I have not detected it come loose, and no seepage, original glue was fine when I last opened the intake manifold. Since it’s asymmetric the hose will tilt upwards on pressure and that will hopefully help provide friction to keep it in. The JB Weld is rock hard, cool to the touch, and it also will bear some load as I added a 2nd layer. Pretty permanent if you ask me. I will update if it ever breaks.

I do still have K-Seal flowing through the cooling system, supposedly it would work on such hard part leaks....

 

I don’t know much about K Seal. Are there any downsides to using it? Would you suggest just preemptively pouring some in to prevent this failure for those with pre-2013 Turbos?

not to put you on the spot, just wondering if anyone knows more about this than me