When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looking to get rid of some shimmy in the steering under braking. Was going to do inner, outers and rack bushing but doesnt look like porsche sells seprately. Is only option to get new rack?
Looking to get rid of some shimmy in the steering under braking. Was going to do inner, outers and rack bushing but doesnt look like porsche sells seprately. Is only option to get new rack?
I am new to panamera but have 14 years professional automotive repair experience, typically shimming under braking is warped rotors, Id verify loose steering components before replacing
I am new to panamera but have 14 years professional automotive repair experience, typically shimming under braking is warped rotors, Id verify loose steering components before replacing
Rotors, upper and lower bushings are new. Was hoping i could just swap out the bushings since i was getting a alignment anyways
If it helps any, there seem to be somewhat cheaper alternatives to buying a Porsche genuine steering rack:
Saw one left at Rock Auto. Saw it also at AutoZone.com.
(I got my upper control arm from AutoZone when I replaced the original with ~ 48k mi. Stopped the crunching noise on compression so far. Why would I do such a thing? If I ever need to replace it again I won't need to pay for the replacement arm. If we keep the car long term that is)....
I replaced all of my front end including two shocks and was getting terrible inner wear on my tires. Car would follow ruts and crowns in the road no matter how many alignments o got. Ran through two sets before I narrowed it down to the rack. If you have someone look while rocking back and forth, the rack moves a couple inches. Since no one sells the bushings I tried injecting them with 3m window weld. If I have to buy a new rack I have nothing to lose anyways. On day 1 of cure will see if it fixes my problem. I tried moving the bushing with a screwdriver and it's already moving way less.
Happy to report there is no movement on the rack bushings filled with window weld. Just be sure to let it cure 2 days. Fixed issues with my car losing alignment right away. Lots of guys use these to fill engine mounts so worth a shot if you don't want to get a new rack for 2 bushings.
+1 for the bushings from Poland. They were backordered for about a month when I ordered, but did ship in less than a week when they became available. Cost me $106 shipped. Did not come with screws.
For anyone interested, I was able to do the install from underneath the car while it was up on ramps. Took me about 3 hours.
Consider lubricating or replacing sway bar bushings while you're at it, as they will be fully uncovered by this process.
.
.
Remove belly pan and center crossmember (8x bolts) (16&18mm).
Remove steering rack screws & nuts (2x18mm). You will need to access nut above rack. Passenger side is easy with wrench perpendicular to steering rack, driver's side access is difficult but can be done with wrench parallel to rack, coming from center of car.
Remove 2x steering line supports from rack, both sides, with 10mm nut on stud.
Remove 4x torx screws from swaybar bushing heat shields to allow shields to move and bend out of the way.
Pull steering rack forward until the metal spacers in the middle of the old bushings are accessible on both sides.
Use bottle jack or other to press metal spacers out from middle of old bushings, tearing rubber. You can use a hammer and small flat head screw driver to help separate metal spacer from the rubber, minimizing forces required when you press.
Pull steering rack fully out of mounts, you should be able to move it fully out and pull it down, it's a tight fit to get past the lip on the driver's side.
Use jigsaw, sawzall, file, oscillating multitool, or other, to slit old bushing sleeves from inside. Pull out lower bushing and then push out upper bushing. CUT TOWARD THE BODY OF THE RACK, NOT A THIN WALL, IN CASE YOU CUT INTO BUSHING BORE SLIGHTLY, YOU DON'T WANT TO WEAKEN YOUR RACK.
Install new bushings into rack from both sides. Use Lubricant.
Tap new spacer into lower bushing until it starts to push upper bushing out.
Use old nut+bolt, and large washer that ships with bushings to push spacer into upper bushing, then remove nut, bolt, washer.
Push rack back into alignment, it's difficult to get the driver's side back in. Try rotating the rack to assist.
Secure with NEW bolt and nut. Again, driver's side access is difficult but it is possible to get a wrench in there to access the nut.
