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Methods to lower IATs

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Old Aug 24, 2016 | 05:33 PM
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Lightbulb Methods to lower IATs

Im running 997 gt2 rs intercoolers but I'm still have trouble with heat soak.

How can I stop this?

Wrap my headers?


Si
 
Old Aug 24, 2016 | 05:48 PM
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I did the GT2RS coolers and an Aquamist HSF3 meth system. I run 75% methanol and 25% water.

So far this year I've used 2-3 gallons of the methanol.

When doing a 3rd gear highway pull for my tuner,.. I see IAT's of about 69 F on an 84 degree day. So 15 F BELOW ambient.

That on stock VTG's at 22.6 psi peak.

No inter-cooler at any price will do that.

http://datazap.me/u/duckstu/log-1467...=0&data=1-3-10

And of course the octane bump is nice. The drop in IAT's along with the extra octane is worth an extra 70 hp easy.


I went with the 5 liter baffled tank, also from Aquamist. Fit like a glove.



And a pic with the carpet removed,.. showing where I put the pump.
 

Last edited by Duckstu; Aug 24, 2016 at 06:03 PM.
Old Aug 24, 2016 | 07:16 PM
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Are GT2RS IC better than like other 4" ICs in the market? Given the endtanks are plastic, are the cores capable of higher boosts and larger turbos later on?
 
Old Aug 24, 2016 | 08:21 PM
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Duck, got any more pictures or details of how you did this?
 
Old Aug 24, 2016 | 08:38 PM
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Build a custom A2W IC.
 
Old Aug 24, 2016 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by au2bahn
Are GT2RS IC better than like other 4" ICs in the market? Given the end-tanks are plastic, are the cores capable of higher boosts and larger turbos later on?

Dangerous topic LOL

They dissipate heat faster than most aftermarket units,.. AND have less flow restriction than most every aftermarket unit.

They don't have a lot of thermal mass (they're light, which is good),.. but that means they don't do as well in a rip through the gears as a heavy unit does. So they're quite good for street,.. and very good for track in cars 700 whp and under

That said,.. they do have their faults. One being the seal to the end tanks. At around 28 psi they start leaking. People JB weld them to try to prevent the leaks. I run 26.5 psi and mine are JB welded. Any more boost or heat and I'll have to switch.

One of the best units out there for street duty (in the under $6,000 price category) is the ETS 16-row coolers. That was my other choice. If you're shooting for 800 Whp or less,.. and your car is mainly a street car,.... those are probably your best bet. They run $1,859,.. and fit into the stock ducting, even plug into the stock hoses.
http://www.extremeturbosystems.com/E...ercoolers.html

I'm putting my flame-suit on now just in case.
 

Last edited by Duckstu; Aug 24, 2016 at 09:44 PM.
Old Aug 24, 2016 | 10:14 PM
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Good info Duckstu. GT2 intercoolers will certainly vary for each application. As you mentioned, street use, great/excellent! Track usage with VTG's isn't as great.

How long do you think that Aqumist kit would last at the track for 30+min sessions?

Great to see someone that has some real world experience with this system.
 
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Duckstu
Dangerous topic LOL They dissipate heat faster than most aftermarket units,.. AND have less flow restriction than most every aftermarket unit. They don't have a lot of thermal mass (they're light, which is good),.. but that means they don't do as well in a rip through the gears as a heavy unit does. So they're quite good for street,.. and very good for track in cars 700 whp and under That said,.. they do have their faults. One being the seal to the end tanks. At around 28 psi they start leaking. People JB weld them to try to prevent the leaks. I run 26.5 psi and mine are JB welded. Any more boost or heat and I'll have to switch. One of the best units out there for street duty (in the under $6,000 price category) is the ETS 16-row coolers. That was my other choice. If you're shooting for 800 Whp or less,.. and your car is mainly a street car,.... those are probably your best bet. They run $1,859,.. and fit into the stock ducting, even plug into the stock hoses. http://www.extremeturbosystems.com/E...ercoolers.html I'm putting my flame-suit on now just in case.
Oops. Didn't know ICs where a sensitive topic. Ha. Thanks for the details as I do intend to get bigger turbos later which still falls below the 700 range. Out of curiosity, what areas need to be JB welded ? Is it all around the ends? Thanks for the tip on the ETS.
 
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 06:04 AM
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Elite,... I don't know yet on 30+ min sessions. I've only done one track day so far in this car and I hadn't finished setting up the system. I had it running for one session,... but the safety's would kick in at times. So for the next system I reverted to an OTS tune and shut the system off.

The Methanol runs $2 - $5 a gallon,.. and you don't use it straight (most people run 50/50),... so for me it's been an extra $10 - $15 a year in costs. If you had to add a gallon of mix every session,... it would still be the cheapest part of a track day.

They also make a 10L tank,.. that's essentially two bolted together.
http://www.aquamist-direct.com/806-6...ffled-drilled/


The car was sketchy to drive at speed,... under-steer, then the rear got goofy and would seem to hop out. I had gt3 front arms in it with BBI axle spacers and camber set to a modest -1.6,.. but I think there was very little rear toe. I have since installed Tarrett rear toe arms,.. and added a bit more toe-in. Seems much better now.

I also didn't know where tire pressure should be. I started with stock pressures,.. but was told by the guys at TPC that I should have had it in the low 30's ft and high 30's rear when HOT. Stock rear pressure is 44 cold as you know. So I was WAY off. I'm excited to try it again.


Au2bahn Yeah,.. people JB Weld them around the edge of the tanks,.. where they meet the cores. I bought mine from a guy that had bought them new and JB Welded them,.. but then decided to go with the ETS units instead. So I paid a grand with the JB Welding already done. (Go 6-Speed classifieds ! )
 
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Duckstu
Au2bahn Yeah,.. people JB Weld them around the edge of the tanks,.. where they meet the cores. I bought mine from a guy that had bought them new and JB Welded them,.. but then decided to go with the ETS units instead. So I paid a grand with the JB Welding already done. (Go 6-Speed classifieds ! )
Thanks Duckstu. Good deal on the the used RS IC. Will start looking at classifieds more closely.
 
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 08:21 AM
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I'm also running 50/50 meth water, but with 5" Promotive intercoolers. I will log some new data and let you know what my IAT's are. I forget off top of my head, but we have had a brutal summer here in NY and heat soak hasnt been an issue for me.
 
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Duckstu
I did the GT2RS coolers and an Aquamist HSF3 meth system. I run 75% methanol and 25% water.

So far this year I've used 2-3 gallons of the methanol.

When doing a 3rd gear highway pull for my tuner,.. I see IAT's of about 69 F on an 84 degree day. So 15 F BELOW ambient.

That on stock VTG's at 22.6 psi peak.

No inter-cooler at any price will do that.
Duckstu -- can you provide more detail on what was involved with the install of this system? What else needed to be modified? Does your tune account for this system? Who installed it all? How long have you been running it. Etc.
 
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Duckstu
Dangerous topic LOL

They dissipate heat faster than most aftermarket units,.. AND have less flow restriction than most every aftermarket unit.

They don't have a lot of thermal mass (they're light, which is good),.. but that means they don't do as well in a rip through the gears as a heavy unit does. So they're quite good for street,.. and very good for track in cars 700 whp and under

That said,.. they do have their faults. One being the seal to the end tanks. At around 28 psi they start leaking. People JB weld them to try to prevent the leaks. I run 26.5 psi and mine are JB welded. Any more boost or heat and I'll have to switch.

One of the best units out there for street duty (in the under $6,000 price category) is the ETS 16-row coolers. That was my other choice. If you're shooting for 800 Whp or less,.. and your car is mainly a street car,.... those are probably your best bet. They run $1,859,.. and fit into the stock ducting, even plug into the stock hoses.
http://www.extremeturbosystems.com/E...ercoolers.html

I'm putting my flame-suit on now just in case.
Earl did an independent test on the ETS coolers. I don't have the link but someone may wanna post it up. They are one of the only aftermarket ICs independently proven to perform very well as they have a dense fins structure and should perform very well at the track. The only drawback is their weight at around twice the weight of the .2s, but then again all aftermarket ICs are heavy. The ETS would be my choice if I had to replace the 997.2s for track use. I like the fact that they use the OEM hoses. They're also cheap so it's not much of an investment if they don't work out.
 

Last edited by pwdrhound; Aug 25, 2016 at 10:56 AM.
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 10:54 AM
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Good to know. What hoses fit on these?
 
Old Aug 25, 2016 | 05:02 PM
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What he said!


You can not get better then meth injection for IAT control period. Yoke that together with a ETS 16Row Cooler and you have a system that can't be touched for IAT management and great octane boost to boot!




Thanks


Bobby Ali


ba


Originally Posted by Duckstu
I did the GT2RS coolers and an Aquamist HSF3 meth system. I run 75% methanol and 25% water.

So far this year I've used 2-3 gallons of the methanol.

When doing a 3rd gear highway pull for my tuner,.. I see IAT's of about 69 F on an 84 degree day. So 15 F BELOW ambient.

That on stock VTG's at 22.6 psi peak.

No inter-cooler at any price will do that.

http://datazap.me/u/duckstu/log-1467...=0&data=1-3-10

And of course the octane bump is nice. The drop in IAT's along with the extra octane is worth an extra 70 hp easy.


I went with the 5 liter baffled tank, also from Aquamist. Fit like a glove.



And a pic with the carpet removed,.. showing where I put the pump.
Originally Posted by Duckstu
Dangerous topic LOL

They dissipate heat faster than most aftermarket units,.. AND have less flow restriction than most every aftermarket unit.

They don't have a lot of thermal mass (they're light, which is good),.. but that means they don't do as well in a rip through the gears as a heavy unit does. So they're quite good for street,.. and very good for track in cars 700 whp and under

That said,.. they do have their faults. One being the seal to the end tanks. At around 28 psi they start leaking. People JB weld them to try to prevent the leaks. I run 26.5 psi and mine are JB welded. Any more boost or heat and I'll have to switch.

One of the best units out there for street duty (in the under $6,000 price category) is the ETS 16-row coolers. That was my other choice. If you're shooting for 800 Whp or less,.. and your car is mainly a street car,.... those are probably your best bet. They run $1,859,.. and fit into the stock ducting, even plug into the stock hoses.
http://www.extremeturbosystems.com/E...ercoolers.html

I'm putting my flame-suit on now just in case.
 


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