lookind of Broken db9 right side tail light
#1
06-21-2018, 07:17 AM
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ocala, fl
Posts: 490
Rep Power: 34 
lookind of Broken db9 right side tail light
Hi Fellas,
I got notorious water in tail light in my 2009 DB9 Volante. Everything works except Brake light which is very dim and flickers. I intend to back it and open up the light to see where the problem is.
I also am planning to connect LED directly to 12 V battery to see if fault is in LEDs or is in circuit board.
Is there any one out there with damaged tail light, broken cover but not water damaged to help me do some transplants of the parts? or has it been done by any one before?
I promise to post a detail post about how its doen if its successful it will save a lot of trouble for other AM owners.
I also think that as soon as one buys an AM they should loosen the mounting bolt for tail light to minimize pull on tail light which leads to separation of glue.
Also once could put extra RTV adhesive to make it water proof before it leaks
I got notorious water in tail light in my 2009 DB9 Volante. Everything works except Brake light which is very dim and flickers. I intend to back it and open up the light to see where the problem is.
I also am planning to connect LED directly to 12 V battery to see if fault is in LEDs or is in circuit board.
Is there any one out there with damaged tail light, broken cover but not water damaged to help me do some transplants of the parts? or has it been done by any one before?
I promise to post a detail post about how its doen if its successful it will save a lot of trouble for other AM owners.
I also think that as soon as one buys an AM they should loosen the mounting bolt for tail light to minimize pull on tail light which leads to separation of glue.
Also once could put extra RTV adhesive to make it water proof before it leaks
#3
06-21-2018, 10:21 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: South Jersey
Age: 65
Posts: 1,480
Rep Power: 73 
Another 2 finger warrior.
You are correct, when they replaced my rear lights I said it won't matter, they'll just do it again. But was corrected, it has alot to do with how tight they're fitted, and over a year now not even a hint of condensation.
You are correct, when they replaced my rear lights I said it won't matter, they'll just do it again. But was corrected, it has alot to do with how tight they're fitted, and over a year now not even a hint of condensation.
#4
06-21-2018, 10:52 AM
Former Vendor
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Wylie, Texas
Age: 49
Posts: 399
Rep Power: 0
Hi,
I dug into the circuit board on my car trying to find the fault, but was not successful. There were some blown FETs, which I replaced, but there is something causing too much current draw, and it fails again. (maybe the inductor? They look to rust badly).
I ended up designing a new PCB for my taillights - I need to revise it slightly to correct a few errors, but I was able to salvage my lights.
If you connect 12V, ensure you have a current limit in place - I can go back and verify the correct currents if you want.
Matt
I dug into the circuit board on my car trying to find the fault, but was not successful. There were some blown FETs, which I replaced, but there is something causing too much current draw, and it fails again. (maybe the inductor? They look to rust badly).
I ended up designing a new PCB for my taillights - I need to revise it slightly to correct a few errors, but I was able to salvage my lights.
If you connect 12V, ensure you have a current limit in place - I can go back and verify the correct currents if you want.
Matt
#5
06-21-2018, 11:18 AM
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ocala, fl
Posts: 490
Rep Power: 34
Db9 tail light
Mine is 2009 and suddenly now I have condensation issue pop up, so we should be doing preventative maintenance on these tail light as eventually they fail and glue separates.
If if you see online guide on how to open them ?
People use heat gun or bake then to separate lense from the body so if you live in hot climate this will happen anyway as those metal around the tail lights can get very hot when parked in sun.
If if you see online guide on how to open them ?
People use heat gun or bake then to separate lense from the body so if you live in hot climate this will happen anyway as those metal around the tail lights can get very hot when parked in sun.
#6
06-21-2018, 11:22 AM
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ocala, fl
Posts: 490
Rep Power: 34 Matt
in your case was some Of the LED WORKING while others were not? My thinking was it must be LED itself as indicator, reverse they all work plus some of the led in brake light still comes on
could you please post some detail instructions on how to design circuit board to salvage it ?
Thx
in your case was some Of the LED WORKING while others were not? My thinking was it must be LED itself as indicator, reverse they all work plus some of the led in brake light still comes on
could you please post some detail instructions on how to design circuit board to salvage it ?
Thx
#7
06-21-2018, 11:58 AM
Former Vendor
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Wylie, Texas
Age: 49
Posts: 399
Rep Power: 0
Hi,
All the LEDs worked fine - it was something on the circuit board that failed.
The reverse lights are regular incandescent bulbs, so they should not go out.
To open the light, I heat the whole think in an oven on a pan. I think the temp was about 230F, but you will want to start at 200 or so, then increase the temp in steps until the seal breaks down. Too hot, and the plastic will deform. I used plastic pry bars to pull it apart once the seal is soft.
Attached is an image of my first board - there were a few errors, but I'm still using it 6 months later. I used Linear Technology LED drivers, and used LTSpice to figure out the correct values.
matt
All the LEDs worked fine - it was something on the circuit board that failed.
The reverse lights are regular incandescent bulbs, so they should not go out.
To open the light, I heat the whole think in an oven on a pan. I think the temp was about 230F, but you will want to start at 200 or so, then increase the temp in steps until the seal breaks down. Too hot, and the plastic will deform. I used plastic pry bars to pull it apart once the seal is soft.
Attached is an image of my first board - there were a few errors, but I'm still using it 6 months later. I used Linear Technology LED drivers, and used LTSpice to figure out the correct values.
matt
Last edited by hsm precision; 06-21-2018 at 11:59 AM. Reason: Add image
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#8
06-22-2018, 07:28 PM
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ocala, fl
Posts: 490
Rep Power: 34
Led board
Hi,
All the LEDs worked fine - it was something on the circuit board that failed.
The reverse lights are regular incandescent bulbs, so they should not go out.
To open the light, I heat the whole think in an oven on a pan. I think the temp was about 230F, but you will want to start at 200 or so, then increase the temp in steps until the seal breaks down. Too hot, and the plastic will deform. I used plastic pry bars to pull it apart once the seal is soft.
Attached is an image of my first board - there were a few errors, but I'm still using it 6 months later. I used Linear Technology LED drivers, and used LTSpice to figure out the correct values.
matt
All the LEDs worked fine - it was something on the circuit board that failed.
The reverse lights are regular incandescent bulbs, so they should not go out.
To open the light, I heat the whole think in an oven on a pan. I think the temp was about 230F, but you will want to start at 200 or so, then increase the temp in steps until the seal breaks down. Too hot, and the plastic will deform. I used plastic pry bars to pull it apart once the seal is soft.
Attached is an image of my first board - there were a few errors, but I'm still using it 6 months later. I used Linear Technology LED drivers, and used LTSpice to figure out the correct values.
matt
It looks way too complex to me, i can open the tail light, get the board out and ship it to you, can you help me fix it? or can you write up a nice easy to understand DIY for this?
Thanks.
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