best rotors for 997S for track use?
honestly...stock...they are excellent.
that being said, you can generally have rotors cryo treated for even longer lasting rotors but IMHO just going with plain stock are your best bet...
that being said, you can generally have rotors cryo treated for even longer lasting rotors but IMHO just going with plain stock are your best bet...
if your going through rotors, the stock ones are simply cheaper to replace...i would put the money into some SS lines and different pads rather than the rotors...but yes, they are prone to a bit more cracking due to the cross-drilled design...oh well...
Thanks
I have the Pagid RS-19s ready to go on... so your just saying if I get the stainless steel brake lines and a new set of stock rotors that would be the best setup for a 75-80% track car?
if its that dedicated, I would DEFINITELY say to stick with stock rotors as you go through them pretty quickely and are generally the cheapest replacement...the SS lines and fluid/pads and whatnot are much better to put your money into...and with the r19s...well...youll be happy after you replace your rotors as often as you will (after maybe 6-12 events depending on how hard you are on them) that you arent paying for extra crap.
You go to PCA events??
You go to PCA events??
Originally Posted by sechsgang
You go to PCA events??
After my last event I needed new pads, new rotors, and a new lightweight flywheel... I guess I am getting better!
Any suggestions on the flywheel? I've warped 2 from FVD and want to try something new...
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Originally Posted by B-moreBroker
All the time! Going to Summit Point with PCA Potomac Aug. 17 -19 and then with NASA Racing 25-26... Also going to VIR Sep. 7-9...
After my last event I needed new pads, new rotors, and a new lightweight flywheel... I guess I am getting better!
Any suggestions on the flywheel? I've warped 2 from FVD and want to try something new...
After my last event I needed new pads, new rotors, and a new lightweight flywheel... I guess I am getting better!
Any suggestions on the flywheel? I've warped 2 from FVD and want to try something new...
damn...I am at WGI on the 3rd, 4th and 5th and summit on the 26th and 27th or something with the RTR...shame they never align...
Dunno on the flywheel problem...you must be REALLY pounding on that cause I have had zero problems with the wheel on the 996TT...maybe sachs has a flywheel for your car...i dont really know what other options there are other than a pure race wheel...but those are pretty clangy and not awefully street friendly...
My stock pads are going to be shot after my next few DE's. My car is an everyday car that the wife drives too. I'd like some better pads than stock though but I do not want to tear up rotors all the time or have squealling brakes either.
Suggestions?
Also do the Pagid's keep from the cross drilled rotor holes from clogging up? After every DE run I have to spend 30min with a metal skewer i stole from my wifes kitchen and poke it through the holes.
Suggestions?
Also do the Pagid's keep from the cross drilled rotor holes from clogging up? After every DE run I have to spend 30min with a metal skewer i stole from my wifes kitchen and poke it through the holes.
replacement rotors
performance friction makes a nice 2 piece/floating rotor set up,same size as stock(slotted) and AP makes a nice replacement set up as well but is a bit bigger diameter, you will need to space your caliper back 5mm. slotted as well
we have run these on grand am cup 996 and 997's with great results, grabbed by Pagid 190's(yellow)
As stated above, if you dont have ss lines, get them!!
we have run these on grand am cup 996 and 997's with great results, grabbed by Pagid 190's(yellow)
As stated above, if you dont have ss lines, get them!!
I also agree, stock rotors are good and save money if your doing alot of track days. Pagid pads help out alot.
Also look into doing some brake vents. Cooling off those rotors will help keep them from cracking.
Also look into doing some brake vents. Cooling off those rotors will help keep them from cracking.
i dont think cup cars are on ss lines.
i have both ss line and stock lines. ss is not better.
pagid, good fluid and stock rotors are fine,.
if you must, ap and brembo also make floating rotors. but cost more. and replacement cost over life is also more. dont buy into the crap of you just changing disk and reuse the hat. after 3 changes, you need new hats. also you have to pay someone labor hours to torque each nubbin on the hat when installing new disks. it's not cheapers. i had them all.
if your stock rotors last you more than 1000 track miles, you aren't driving fast enough. if you destroy them b/n 600-800 miles, that's about right and buy them in bulk, you be fine.
i have both ss line and stock lines. ss is not better.
pagid, good fluid and stock rotors are fine,.
if you must, ap and brembo also make floating rotors. but cost more. and replacement cost over life is also more. dont buy into the crap of you just changing disk and reuse the hat. after 3 changes, you need new hats. also you have to pay someone labor hours to torque each nubbin on the hat when installing new disks. it's not cheapers. i had them all.
if your stock rotors last you more than 1000 track miles, you aren't driving fast enough. if you destroy them b/n 600-800 miles, that's about right and buy them in bulk, you be fine.
Originally Posted by mooty
i dont think cup cars are on ss lines.
i have both ss line and stock lines. ss is not better.
pagid, good fluid and stock rotors are fine,.
if you must, ap and brembo also make floating rotors. but cost more. and replacement cost over life is also more. dont buy into the crap of you just changing disk and reuse the hat. after 3 changes, you need new hats. also you have to pay someone labor hours to torque each nubbin on the hat when installing new disks. it's not cheapers. i had them all.
if your stock rotors last you more than 1000 track miles, you aren't driving fast enough. if you destroy them b/n 600-800 miles, that's about right and buy them in bulk, you be fine.
i have both ss line and stock lines. ss is not better.
pagid, good fluid and stock rotors are fine,.
if you must, ap and brembo also make floating rotors. but cost more. and replacement cost over life is also more. dont buy into the crap of you just changing disk and reuse the hat. after 3 changes, you need new hats. also you have to pay someone labor hours to torque each nubbin on the hat when installing new disks. it's not cheapers. i had them all.
if your stock rotors last you more than 1000 track miles, you aren't driving fast enough. if you destroy them b/n 600-800 miles, that's about right and buy them in bulk, you be fine.



