Fuse access points-heads up.
#1
Fuse access points-heads up.
I just got done hardwiring my Escort 9500 to the Driver side fuse box, and I thought this would be easy, just access the rear wiper fuse (location D1) like all the 991 911 owners have. I just wanted to make sure I did not tap into a safety related fuse.
Anyways, I looked at the rear wiper fuse and there was only one contact point in the fuse box, meaning each fuse has two male blades, and the corresponding fuse slot should have two metal female contact points. I checked further, and all the unused fuse locations on the left and right side of my Turbo S had only one female contact point. What gives!
Finally, I ended up using the Add A Fuse on the Homelink 5 amp fuse on the driver side, but without the unused spots having two female contact points it makes it harder to wire into anything.
Anyways, I looked at the rear wiper fuse and there was only one contact point in the fuse box, meaning each fuse has two male blades, and the corresponding fuse slot should have two metal female contact points. I checked further, and all the unused fuse locations on the left and right side of my Turbo S had only one female contact point. What gives!
Finally, I ended up using the Add A Fuse on the Homelink 5 amp fuse on the driver side, but without the unused spots having two female contact points it makes it harder to wire into anything.
#4
Just finished hard wiring in my passport. I've done over 30 detectors in my time and this one was pretty easy. Used the passenger fuse box, tapped off the fuse for the passenger a/c seat ventilation. I believe it's in row D, forgot which number but just check the manual. Most of the other fuses were hot all the time and I wanted one that turns on/off with the key. That fuse does that. Hardest part was installing the ground. I used the bolt underneath the glove box to the right side(if you are sitting in the passenger seat). Then ran the "home run" up the A pillar across windshield down the mirror to where my mount is. I don't like using the suction cups, as in Florida with the heat, they tend to fall off. Always worried when they fall they're going to damage the carbon fiber/etc. So I use the rear view mirror mounts now. I'm extremely careful so total install time was around a hour & a half.
#5
Just finished hard wiring in my passport. I've done over 30 detectors in my time and this one was pretty easy. Used the passenger fuse box, tapped off the fuse for the passenger a/c seat ventilation. I believe it's in row D, forgot which number but just check the manual. Most of the other fuses were hot all the time and I wanted one that turns on/off with the key. That fuse does that. Hardest part was installing the ground. I used the bolt underneath the glove box to the right side(if you are sitting in the passenger seat). Then ran the "home run" up the A pillar across windshield down the mirror to where my mount is. I don't like using the suction cups, as in Florida with the heat, they tend to fall off. Always worried when they fall they're going to damage the carbon fiber/etc. So I use the rear view mirror mounts now. I'm extremely careful so total install time was around a hour & a half.
#7
Also, when you tapped into the fuse box, did you use an "add a circuit" (like this http://tinyurl.com/ppmyngs). If so, was it ATM or ATO?
Thanks!
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#8
I used the MirrorMount TM Radar Detector Mirror Mount. Then I used the escort direct wire power cord. No I did not add a circuit/fuse. I thought about it but the fuse I had would have stuck out and not allowed the fuse panel cover to go back on. That was unacceptable for me.
On to installation tips/information: Use a pair of cutters and cut the tip of the positive off, then use wire strippers to strip the cord casing off. Strip less than a inch. You will then have the exposed wire. Pull the fuse out I mentioned above. Wrap the exposed positive around the front edge of the fuse. The expose wire should look like this when wrapped around the fuse: c : then the fuse in between the opening. Should have taken a pic during installation I guess lol. Then just slide the fuse back into its original position and you're good to go. Once the fuse is installed you'll get your current on your line and a nice snug fit on your cable. Any excess cabling coil up, zip tie it, and stick it in the open bottom spot of the fuse panel.
A few other tips: you'll need a wire cutter and wire stripper. Also I recommend using the long zip ties to snake the line between the A pillar. Just use black electrical tape and tape the wire to the zip tie then snake it through the tight areas. I worked from top to bottom running the cable. Another great tool(s) to have is the tool kit MAcarbon sells. Not sure what its called but the tools are blue and made of plastic. Great for pushing the wire in along the roof line or helping you hold the A pillar back for space. Doesn't scratch or damage the interior! I never had to remove/disassemble the A pillar. Just opened it enough to snake the tie wrap through and pull back the cord.
Oh and don't forget if you use the same ground I did the bolt is a reverse torx. Not a common tool to have for most, I was lucky. Hope I helped answer some questions for people out there.
On to installation tips/information: Use a pair of cutters and cut the tip of the positive off, then use wire strippers to strip the cord casing off. Strip less than a inch. You will then have the exposed wire. Pull the fuse out I mentioned above. Wrap the exposed positive around the front edge of the fuse. The expose wire should look like this when wrapped around the fuse: c : then the fuse in between the opening. Should have taken a pic during installation I guess lol. Then just slide the fuse back into its original position and you're good to go. Once the fuse is installed you'll get your current on your line and a nice snug fit on your cable. Any excess cabling coil up, zip tie it, and stick it in the open bottom spot of the fuse panel.
A few other tips: you'll need a wire cutter and wire stripper. Also I recommend using the long zip ties to snake the line between the A pillar. Just use black electrical tape and tape the wire to the zip tie then snake it through the tight areas. I worked from top to bottom running the cable. Another great tool(s) to have is the tool kit MAcarbon sells. Not sure what its called but the tools are blue and made of plastic. Great for pushing the wire in along the roof line or helping you hold the A pillar back for space. Doesn't scratch or damage the interior! I never had to remove/disassemble the A pillar. Just opened it enough to snake the tie wrap through and pull back the cord.
Oh and don't forget if you use the same ground I did the bolt is a reverse torx. Not a common tool to have for most, I was lucky. Hope I helped answer some questions for people out there.
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