Tom, looks like its gonna be a fun year. I look forward to meeting you and all the other high rollers. See ya at Captree

 

Raudel ,whos doing your engine work?

 

Protosport

 

Mine didn't... so I do not think every tuner has that option. Especially if ur running past 1.25 bars... and the limp mode is taken out... like it is on most higher HP cars... I had a GIAC at the time with ZC turbos as you know and I went thru 3 Wgs... it still didnt work. I eventually used a manual boost controller to bleed of the excess so I wouldn't overboost.
That was then.. things may have changed.
mark

 

HIGH ROLLER! hehehehe your confusing me with joetwint ...Captree

 

Unless the springs were changed to a much higher rate, I dont see why the ECU would not open the gates... Heck, EVERYTHING has changed

 

Markski,

Maybe I am misunderstanding the EBC's but I thought that if you set a peak boost, say 1.4 bar and a spike limit of 1.6 then when that spike limit is hit, irrespective of the OAT, the controller backs the boost down to your predetermined input, say 1.4 again. That's the way the HSK VI is described as to its function. I know you have the Greddy, but are they so different?

This is, I think, dependent on where your tuner has set the max boost the ECU will accept before going into limp. Help me understand this cold weather issue with these suposed safeguards on the EBC's. Also, it would seem that if you had external wastegates with, say 0.9 bar springs, wouldn't that start bleeding off the boost even if everything else failed, thusly saving the engine?

 

I think the issue is that the stock boost controller may not react as quickly as an aftermarket unit with aftermarket turbos. Especially some of the Fuzzy logic (Greddy) boost controllers that can learn the wastegate reaction time with the your turbo setup and predict the need to bleed as boost is building.

 

Enough is a relative term and has a wide variety of answers;

My best lap time at Brainderd was done with my PSI 480 kit and Hoosiers.
(Admittedly, I have not run with good tires yet in my new config, but there
is just so much performance (track perf) in these cars to learn and explore before
adding a couple hundred horsepower. Having said that I never liked being on the street
in my Previous 911's (this is my 7th) and having some teenybop in a 5.0 outdrag
me at a stoplight! Call me shallow. Now, unless it is a TT Viper or some big single turbo
Supra I can outrun "most of them" (helps to keep the fragile ego intact...LOL).
This year I will forget about the street punks and focus on some fun and varied events so...How much is enough? I have plenty and just need to learn more about how to use it. I am fortunate to have many able and willing tracksters (Pat K, Jerry G, Rick P, Steve B.) to help me learn the limits of my car.
Good luck to all, I love learning and yearning about the big builds and their are some
real big ones coming as we speak. Protomotive is building (3) GT35R cars right now.

MK

 

I have had boost controllers on all my Ricers. but for the Porsche I will be running multiple files for diff fuels & boost levels. I just feel safer..IMHO

 

You are 100% correct. But someone didnt have the HKS VI nor the Greddy profecB both of which have warnings and limits... it was almost as if he was running blind... the % set in the summer changed at 40 degrees... so while he thought he was still at 1.4 ... the car was probably doing 1.6
He had the older model with 2 ***** ( LO and HI) thats it.
mark

 

Yes of course I had upgraded springs... they were 1.2 bar springs... I couldnt contol them... no matter where I set them up... all this in the winter... then once it warmed up it was better.
I think they ended up to be .9 bars after all said and done.
Sure if you run 7 PSI springs u will have no issues. but ten you will never get 1.3 bars out of them.... so its a tricky situation... and living in a changing climate even more so.
My Pcar currently has .8 bar spring. When its 40 degrees or less it will hit
.92 bars...

 

Raudel,


Sorry about the car.........
I tell everyone who asks me the same thing......700 is probably the best package in these cars as far as reliability ,drivability,and power to date.There is no need for a boost controller at that level and as far as I am concerned is only making things complicated.My GT 700 ran in the 10's at 135 full weight and AWD......the 700hp level is perfect for these cars and can be done without too much trouble.It is when you get to the 800-1000hp level that IMO they become a little finicky but that comes from "pushing the envelope" and will get better with time.Leave it a 700 build the bottom end with a good set of rods and gaskets.If you wanna do roll ons and be king......Buy a Viper or Supra.Now if I could only follow my own advice!

 

800hp please....

 

The HKS VI has an offset function that detects the existing boost vs. that which has been programed as the desired peak and it either raises it to meet that pre-determined figure or decreases it to do so. Quite nifty, I think.

Also has a scramble boost feature with provision for an external switch, if so desired, so you can get and extra xx.. amount of boost for a pre-determined amount of time, up to 60 seconds. Similar to the 997tt 10-second boost increase feature. With the right fuel in the tank and the proper amount of fuel coming out of the injectors for proper A/F ratios, it's just perfect for the time when you are seeing tail lights in your windshield instead of headlights in you rear view mirror. :-)

Maybe this is why the Porsche PHD only uses HKS for his EBC installations, or that's what I've been lead (read) to believe. Guess all this is what influenced me to have one for my very own, plus Tial 44mm external waste gates. Plan to install it all during the winter down time.