Joe, I've been trying to convince myself to leave it at 700. Its just that when I think about how much I have to spend to do the rod job and to have the same end results (700hp)....thats what sucks. Atleast if I spend a little more and gain more hp it won't feel so bad doing the rod job.

 

IMO it doesn't matter what kind of controller was in the car,a EBC should not be in a car with a 700 package and stock internals....There really is no need for it my car ran pretty good without one ......if they blow the motor we are not talking about a $3500 rebuild more like $15000(just for basics)... not to mention it takes all the responsibility away from the tuner....it is always gonna be the users fault,but hey everyone wants to go fast.Also just because someone has an AFR gauge in the car doesn't mean they are OK cranking the boost just because their AFR's are OK......Heck most of those gauges don't read fast enough or the car goes lean at a certain RPM that the gauge or user missed.The car really needs to be data logged with someone in the passenger seat.To think that having a AFR gauge and a boost controller in the car is gonna be enough to see what is really going on is crazy.What about EGT's?This is what I don't understand when everybody talks about a "custom tune".......what does it matter if you are gonna crank the boost.

 

It is a snowball running downhill fast..........after you spend all the money and realize you could have another car (one that makes big rwhp#'s)to supplement your 700,that is when it doesn't make sense.The big thing is knowing where to stop because there is always something else that can get improved on along the way.

 

Raudel,

You had the 700, so you know what that's like...I find it very reliable, very fast and a perfect daily driver. I put 15,000 trouble free, pump gas miles on mine this year and was never concerned about breaking down when away on long distance trips. The car inspired as confidence. I would have liked a little more power "at times", but I didn't feel that way always. Many days it felt perfect and I would comment to myself what a fantastic set-up Todd created with his 700 package...

I am sensing you feel the same way. Having owned stock, 510HP, 600HP and now 700HP, I think about 850 FWHP would be about right for those times when you crave more power. The question is - how does an 850HP car drive in the variety of circumstances a daily driver encounters? If it's the same as our 700's, only more power at WOT, then I think it would be great. If on the other hand, there is increased lag with a greater push at the end or constant reliability or other problems, then I do not think it would suit daily driving as much. I can certainly understand your desire to go bigger now...If you are seriously considering it, I think you should spend a little time and travel (if necessary) to test drive a few higher HP examples and see what they are like, talk to the owners, etc. You can always strengthen the rods, head bolts and gaskets and run it hard on the K24/18'gs without worry, which is still a nice option.

In reference to EBC's - Personally, I am comfortable with the Greddy Profec B and I like it. I run my boost on the low side compared to most (I think). I run 1.16 - 1.19 at WOT. When the cold weather set in, the same setting yielded 1.24 - 1.27 at WOT, so I turned it down 2 clicks to achieve just under 1.2 at WOT. When I put in 100 octane I set it for 1.27-1.29 bar. Like Mark said, it has an alarm feature and in my case, if it hits 1.35, it reduces the boost by a user defined amount. Seems pretty simple to use and interesting to monitor.

I was thinking of the HKS VI, as well, AL. I liked the idea of maintaining a pre-set boost and automatically adjusting up or down. I was unaware of the over-boost feature, but I don't think I would use that. HKS has the alarm, as well, and after using the Greddy for a year, I like some of the HKS additional features.

Raudel, good luck with whatever you choose -

 

John,
My EBC is the HKS EVC model which has an on/off button, Low ****, and High ****...thats it no display, no alarms or any other gadget. This is what was sold to me by my installer and I had no knowledge of the different options so I went with what he suggested. I was never told to lower the boost on colder days or use higher octane to compensate for the higher boost. All I knew was low boost was 1.2 for 93 octane and high boost was 1.4 for 104 octane. Unfortunately I learned the hard way.

 

The question comes down to, do you want to hop in your car and beat on it, or do you want to be more conscientious and have a car that can stomp on everything.

If you want a car you can hop into with out a problem and just beat on it stay with the 700hp kit. If you want to have a car that will stomp on everything else but you have to be slightly more careful, I highly suggest you talk to Suman about the package that he's been concocting like a mad scientist in a basement that you typically see in the movies. His package is very well sorted out and can stand up to the punishment because he's probably the most psychotic and ***** to the wall driver I've ever met.

 

To keep it simple...I agree with Joe...

 

Raudel,

That's unfortunate that you didn't realize what the car was boosting and had no way to monitor and set it. I mounted my EBC with the display facing me, so that I can read it at a glance. I frequently monitor it "just to see" what it's reading at WOT and adjust from that reading. It's usually about the same, unless the temperature changes dramatically. I think this is an example of the downside of an EBC - a situation where the user is not fully informed or does not fully understand how to use it. I have a reasonable idea of how it works and I am not apprehensive about it at all, nor am I tempted to crank it to unsafe boost levels. I think as long as you understand how to use it - it's fine. You really need the "limit" feature and the "display" though, in order to know where things stand at all times and have a safety measure built in to the system. I actually like it and I think it is a good tool if used properly.

 

I've read this thread with some interest. I am curious as to who if anyone has used a high output CD system with larger coils on the 996tt motor. Especially with motors pushing the rpm's. Peak and hold injectors also make a big difference, especially at the low and high rpm's.

As for fuel and boost. Lower the head temperatures, ie ceramic coated piston tops, combustion chambers, valves and exhaust posts and you have a whole new set of parameters regarding hp/octane.

 

and now with the new trbos and TRICK you're at 800hp!

 

And now with he 3.8 and NEW turbos? you have 800hp!!!! Assuming great gas....

 

Sure I agree but he doesn't have a Evoms package. The problem arose( in my opinion) when the installer did not put in the correct EBC. He had no sense of actual boost... no warning nor a limit feature. NO display on the EBC either. So the EBc was set in the summer( hi 70s)... guess what? at 40 degrees that % setting on the HI boost **** just went thru the roof... Especially doing 0 to 180 mph runs in the cold......
The AFrs would have at least told him that he's leaning out and that he's running HI boost( not aware at the time)... It would jump from 12s lets say to 13s.... Trust me I have 2 of them on 2 cars... I know first hand. He would be able to let off... turn down the **** 2 or 3 clicks and guess what? The afrs would go down again. It still may have not prevented the situation... It's not a full proof feature but ask any Boosted car owner( non P car) and you will see that most of them run EBC with a Uago AEm AFR meter... or equivalent.
He was running blind... that's my take on it. Very unfortunate because it could have been prevented.
But then I recall jegs911tt GT700- who hooked up a manual boost guage and it showed 26 or 28 PSI... yet his cluster guage was showing something totally different..
I found the thread at :https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ad.php?t=61298

and the quote is:
Could it be that Raudel's cluster also read less then what it actually was?
I'm speculating at this point...
markski

 

It's more about the compressors when you're talking about big boost B/C larger compressors willrun ahigher absolute PSI number to the motor than small compressors at the same BAR reading.

Markski is running say, .9BAR but with G35's so that's a huge PSI number...

You want to keep it LOW for reliability so most people opt for intake, exhaust, and then do hybrids @ 1.0-1.2BAR and get LONGEVITY with 600+HP.

There are a lot of components to these things. You must build SYSTEMS in order to gain the performance you seek. Next comes gears, clutches, fuelig, twin oil pumps, twin fuel pumps, new differential, larger thicker axles.....

Be ready for $100K USD in order to achieve HP happiness just for the mods plus what you'll replace in the meantime...

 

IMO if the car really was running that much boost for an extended period of time(a couple of days) the motor would have probably lost a head gasket also.......Did Jaggs blow a head gasket?No GT700 is running that kind of boost off the shelf from Evo (bad gauge?)....trust me on this one Mark...I have seen several installed at EVOMS.

 

To clarify, after I had posted that thread we had figured out why I was seeing those high boost numbers. I had a boost reading pre-TB. The high boost numbers would spike in between shifts. I was not watching the gauge to see when I got the high boost numbers but looked at the highest recording on the defi gauge. I then took my nephew with me for a few runs and he told me that it spikes were in between shifts. We then took the boost reading post TB and problem solved

Jag

Raudel - Im sorry that you blew the HG. Oh well now you can build a sweet motor, but that another journey within itself!