This will be alarming to some of you still on the MOBIL 1 bandwagon...


For the record, my 50,000 mile car uses Valvoline VR1 20-50 Racing
(non-synthetic, which still has the "dangerous" additives).

enjoy,

mK

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

 

Are you trying to refer to ZDP ? Where exactly in the engine do you see that test being representative ?

 

I will try to get more details, but from memory, the particular
oil test used by this magazine is about as valid and comprehensive
a test of what oils have to do in our motors, as would be a beauty
contest that judged solely on bra cup size. "This hot issue: We find
a tried-and-true tape-measure test that will put the kibosh on
Miss America! See inside for the surprising results. Already Counted
Dolly Parton out? Not so fast!"
Don't be fooled into thinking that a few magazine wonks can
borrow a used 1940's gear-oil testing rig and find the dirty secret
that the top oil companies have been trying to hide, and that the
engineers at Porsche and Lotus and Ferrari etc apparently missed...
Joe

 

There is so much speculation when it comes to oil analysis that you don't know who to believe or what test labs to use... I used to be an Amsoil dealer, and I can tell you that going by what you read in the rags out on the newstands won't provide any real data.

There is a ton of data over on www.bobistheoilguy.com that will overload you with more data that can confuse the best.

I change my oil and filter every other track weekend. That's enough for me... I figure that in 7500 miles of use, my oil might see as much as 1000 miles on it between changes.

Mike

 

Here is a more up-to-date article from the original authors,
that follows up, stating that they were essentially crucified
in the public for the flaws and weaknesses of that test,
admitting the test isn't indicative for the real world. It
quotes oil experts who say the test is for gear oil.

[media]http://www.streetcommodores.com/images/tech/PDF/132oiltech.pdf[/media]

Joe

 

Joe,

what oil is the best oil against long term metal breakdown?
Do you use Mobil 1?

MK

 

Marty,

I posted this same thing a while back. Also, I've noticed a loss in milage when using Mobile 1 versus some of the other synthetic brands. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ad.php?t=78750

 

Hi MK, I have been competing with my Porsche since August 2000.
Mine is one of the first 996tts in the U.S. I have used mostly
Mobil-1 0w40, with occasional mixing a little of the heavier Mobil-1
or RedLine in that has more zinc, but never mixing in enough thick
oil that it changes the 0w40 viscosity, because you *want* thin.
You want *flow*. Viscosity is *resistance to flow*. If you don't
start your car cold a lot, but rather start it and run it hot and hard
all day on the track, every time till rebuild, then you might want
10w50 instead of 0w40, but for the most of us 0w40 is right. An
expert quote I remember is: "No oil is too thin at startup!" The
bobtheoilguy site is full of info, but the executive summary is that
there are no secrets, silver-bullets, or magic answers, and the best
experts at what will do the best for your car are the folks who made
it. There is no amount of money an oil company could pay Porsche
to tout their oil at the risk of Porsche's reputation as engineers. Just
do what they say and you have your best bet. And note that Porsche
may *change* what they say. That's because they discover something
new (good or bad) but they're the ones that will be most on top of the
issue. Oh, and oil is somewhat like underwear; Gucci or Target isn't as
important as changing at the severe-duty (doodie? ) interval.
Joe

 

Mike what is the recommendation of Bob the oil guy? I can't read those kind of articles without my head exploding.

 

And as to long-term metal breakdown, the crucial issues would be
two:
1 - proper viscosity. Too thin will risk metal-to-metal contact during
shock loads, and too thick risks more metal-to-metal contact at startup
until oil flows to all parts, and also if oil breaks down into sludge because
of extreme heat. Note that viscosity *causes* heat. It is fluid friction.
Formula-1 cars run the very thinnest oils, and some engineers considered
using water!
2 - Acid-neutralizing additives. All reputable car oils have these, though
some more than others. As long as you use a good quality oil and change it
frequently enough you should be OK in this regard.

 

The Oil guy isn't going to recommend one big winner. There isn't one.
You have to be the type that *loves* the head-exploding articles
before you can even fiddle around with what Porsche recommends,
and that would be based on some specific and unusual usage of your
car. You should simply trust Porsche engineers. You trusted them
enough to buy their product, so use whatever viscosities and brands
they recommend for your conditions.

 

I pretty much went back to using mobil1 and dropped my Amsoil dealer's license. What Joe said is pretty much true. I don't believe any oil manufacturer knows better than your vehicle manufacturer. I will start running Delvac 10W40 if i can find it, based on info Kevin and UMW has posted on his forum.

Mike

 

Marty there was a thread a while back that I got in touch with Opie Oils who in turn got some of the big wigs involved at Fuchs/Silkolene, I posted feedback regarding these tests.

 

Here's the other thing some need to consider...

Oil manufacturers are just like Porsche aftermarket parts makers... They SELL products and hope you will believe them when they tell you that your current XYZ product is inferior. "You must replace your inferior product with our superior product if you want your baby to run forever!"

Your manufacturer doesn't want you to blow your baby up, especially under their specific guidance. If you, and a whole host of other consumers buy their cars, use their oil recommendations, and then blow up their baby in doing so, then you'll create a stir within the consumor watch dog organizations, and then they'll have a potential TSB, that in the long run could into a recall...

Not that I trust Porsche... But I trust oil companies even less.

Mike

 

Where can we get it, and where is the info about why it's better? I'm going to change immediately if 10w is better than 0w for tracking.