Was at Pocono this weekend at a DE event on the long course in my 996 turbo. After a number times of hard braking down from about 165 mph on the back straight, I experienced a bit of brake fade. I have stock pads, steel braided lines and use the high temp blue fluid. Question is do any member have any experience using after market brake pads rather than OEM that offer better fade resistance BUT I dont want to go with a all out racing pad. I dont want the noise that comes with them. I guess Im looking for the best of both worlds. Was wondering if they make such a pad in the after market that offers low/no noise and better performance than stock.

Thanks.

 

I wanted the same thing....just put on EBC red stuff pads. (ceramic, new generation...). They are quiet, fade free in DE, and make slightly less dust.

Castrol SRF too.....my choice to avoid wet fade....but expensive....

But the pads are cheaper.. For that kind of speed the EBC yellowstuff's may be your ticket....dust is higher, but they work in day to day driving too....http://www.ebcbrakes.com/yellowstuffinfo.html

JB

 

SRF and if you are going to be making many stops at 165, I believe you'll be re-thinking your decision about not wanting race pads. I was the same as you wanting quiet pads, but decided safety was more important, hence race pads.

 

Has anyone used or got any comments about EBC Yellowstuff?

I need to get some decent pads for the occaisional DE event also. Curious as to how good these are in comparison to say Pagid Orange or Yellow. Price-wise they are a lot cheaper.

 

JCB:

Any experience using the Pagid line of pads? I hear they are very noisy but are very good.

 

Just did a DE with, first time for me, Pagid yellows. Much better bite than stock pads, but they do squeal before you get some residue build-up. The stock pads supposedly will leave too much build-up and make you think your rotors are warped.

 

Everything is a compromise! I have yellows and they are great on track and if bedded in properly, are not that squeelly (my old oranges were worse believe it or not...maybe due less than optimal bedding). Must be careful on cold braking...they need to really heat up to work like they are supposed to. It all depends on how much you want to track your car. personally, I wouldn't keep using stock pads if you will be doing more events and long/fast circuits like Pocono bowl, WG, etc. I don't drive that much on the street so my setup is definitely good for my situation. GL

 

Everyone likes Pagids, but everyone I know has track ones and street ones. They are universally (to those I know and met at VIR...and other sites) respected. They are costly.

I tried EBC and like them. Some have the yellows and like them. The "low dust" reds I have which are ceramic make a bit of dust that really show if it rains....so the high dust race yellow EBC's might make a lot of dust. I just don't know. In my searchs, the yellows were really well liked.


I found for me (early DE person, but high hp car...I do brake hard) the reds were good at Pocono. Top speed on Pocono North was, for me, not as high as at VIR. Just me.

I plan to try the EBC yellows next, as they are likely "ok" on the street....but these reds are quite nice and not too costly. I had 0 fade at Pocono...but I am not a Tom Kerr/Mikelly/DataX/Sean 996/heavychevy/seschang level driver at present. Those guys are fast and they used a various series of Pagids I think (guys, no offense...you guys are the people I'd ask....when I get good).


JCB

 

great feedback, thx...more brake dust doesnt bother me, its the noise factor im trying to avoid if possible, being that I drive my car mostly on the street with maybe 3 to 4 DE events a year at best. Really Im just looking for a higer level of fade resistance than stock with out having to go to a race pad because Im not racing. But I just dont like the feeling of having my brakes fade on me. Plus, even with high temp blue fluid, I was boiling it this weekend. The interesting thing was that my low fluid light came on and when I checked it back at the pit, it was at full level. AND my brakes were getting spongy...cant figure that one out. Had all the lines bled in the fall when I put the braided lines and new fluid in. This happened after about 4 hot laps of chasing track prepared vipers and Ferrari challenge cupcars (which I was realing in incidentally in some cases, that was fun!). I run in the red group (expert, but by no means am I an expert) and we were all running very hard. I use to run EBC pads on my sport bikes (cbr's and gsxr's) and they were better than stock and had no noise..exactly what I was looking for.

 

with only several DE's a year and I assume street tires I would just optimize your stock set up and keep stock pads. 50% or less pad material lets way too much heat transfer to the rotors and calipers, if you start at 50% pad at the beginning of the day you will never finish the event.
that means motul or castrol fluid, blue fluid is worthless, GT3Cup front brake air ducts, flush before each event and never go to the track without new pads.
fade is a result of many things not just pad material. mostly fluid boiling and getting air in the system. the above will decrease that. also drive around and get good cool downs after you run.
that said although my car is race level it still has a license plate and occasionally driven to a track or even work on the weekends.
from street driving a full race brake set up I have found that with properly bedded pagid orange or yellow (black in rears) you would be surprised how little noise they in fact do make.
also consider for just several events to just swap the pads out, not that big a deal, but you must bed in properly.
brake fluid light is a common event at the track and is usually ok

you will find with the heavy car you have you will be able to "keep up" with the race cars for a little while but where my car always let me down right as I was thinking I was doing great is the brakes go. basic phyics you have alot of hp and a heavy car with stock brakes, need to learn to brake and cool in the track as effiecently as possible

until you do this..........

 

mmmm, those are nice, but I think Ill use the $4k for other things, like k24's! I ran street tires this weekend but usually run on Kumho 700's, which are nearly shot now..have a new set of pilot sports that Ill be trying..heard they give up slightly in grip but last quite a bit longer...

 

yep..you have that right...had a track prepared gt2 eating my lunch on braking..kept up with him in the straights, but that was about it

 

Tom knows best as far as experience goes. I will say this. I never learned to work on cars as a kid and feel intimidated by it because of my ignorance and lack of experience. But after my tech let me watch him change my brake pads, I was surprised how simple it is and now know that even I can do it in a very short period of time. You could change back and forth between street and race pads quickly and easily. Personally I feel street pads are to soft for high speed, heavy car braking, and read about residue build up causing the rotors to vibrate like they were warped and decided to go for a high heat race pad on the track for my own peace of mind. Good luck with whatever you choose.

 

the GT3 6 piston full upgrade is only $2600 (not what I have) but still way better.
you need to decide what it the most important to you. you seem to like to go fast!!! thats all good but as you can see other components need to be upgraded to handle the additonal hp. really think about what you just said. may brakes cant handle my current hp level but rather that invest in better braking you still opt for more hp, wait till you are now doing 185 in the back straight with your shiney new K 24 hybrids and cant stop!!

for the street (and you know how we feel about that, nuff said) the power is intoxicating and you get carried away (like your you tube vid) with the hp and then realize you cant stop. that is why the track is so great you find out in an controlled environment your cars weaknesses and then you can upgrade as you need.

if pure speed is it for you start at the strip and get some 1/4 mile times then upgrade the power and "see" the results.

Larry, I agree with all you posted here and as always good advise.


tom

 

My brake wear indicator just came on... I'm not planning on tracking the car but would like better braking ability... Would EBC Reds, SS brake lines, and Motul fluid be adequate for the street?