Coolant and Radiator replacement???
#1
Coolant and Radiator replacement???
After searching the forum I was still left with several questions.
I just put a new radiator on the car and I'm wondering if there are any precautions I need to take before starting the car. My plan is to jack the rear of the car up, fill the reservoir up with as much coolant as I can, and then start the car. The center radiator was installed without any coolant in it. Is there any precaution I need to take before turning the car over? I don't have the means to pressurize the system.
What is the capacity of the cooling system?
Also, if I do fill the car up with as much coolant as I can, without getting all the air out, and drive to my tech's shop, will this cause any problems?
Additionally, and comments on using Audi coolant in place of the Porsche coolant are appreciated.
Ryan
I just put a new radiator on the car and I'm wondering if there are any precautions I need to take before starting the car. My plan is to jack the rear of the car up, fill the reservoir up with as much coolant as I can, and then start the car. The center radiator was installed without any coolant in it. Is there any precaution I need to take before turning the car over? I don't have the means to pressurize the system.
What is the capacity of the cooling system?
Also, if I do fill the car up with as much coolant as I can, without getting all the air out, and drive to my tech's shop, will this cause any problems?
Additionally, and comments on using Audi coolant in place of the Porsche coolant are appreciated.
Ryan
#3
Coolant quantity is 27 liters. I use the Audi stuff, it is a different colour but has the same spec and our P-car stuff. I have changed my coolant many times.
The only thing you need to worry about is getting air locks in the system, if you do it will blow the main coolant hoses off in the engine bay, it has happened to me a few times until I got a Snap-on coolant bleeder tool which connects to a large air compressor and creates a 20 PSI vacuum.
If you just did your front radiator you should be fine as when I did my GT2 front nose conversion I had to flip the front rad and extend the main hoses. I did not bleed the system and it was fine, just topped her up that's all. I clamped off the main hoses when I did the job plus raised the front of the car about 15" and it worked fine.
Cheers,
Ben
The only thing you need to worry about is getting air locks in the system, if you do it will blow the main coolant hoses off in the engine bay, it has happened to me a few times until I got a Snap-on coolant bleeder tool which connects to a large air compressor and creates a 20 PSI vacuum.
If you just did your front radiator you should be fine as when I did my GT2 front nose conversion I had to flip the front rad and extend the main hoses. I did not bleed the system and it was fine, just topped her up that's all. I clamped off the main hoses when I did the job plus raised the front of the car about 15" and it worked fine.
Cheers,
Ben
#6
Yes I did Ryan...it's no big deal. At some point you might want to do a complete flush of your system anyway. My hose blew when I dropped the motor the first time. It was simply an air lock thats all. No biggie. Was interesting though as I had half the *** end off driving around after we put the motor back in and boom, coolant all over the place, steam etc...it was quite funny actually, people driving by had no idea what was going on....LOL
#7
If your super picky about using good coolant I'd use Evan's NPR good stuff. It's a waterless coolant that does great in boosted cars. Kicker is that you have to drain "everything" to the last drop. But holds up to heat well and allows you to convert to a lower psi radiator cap. Thus putting less stress on gaskets etc.... It also doesn't corrode anything either good for a toy that gets put away for extended periods of time.
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#8
Does the Audi coolant lubricate the Porsche water pump well enough?
I actually had to drive the car for about a mile with an open cooling system, so I'm not too sure I'll be able to get the air out as easily as you Ben. BTW, did you put any coolant in the new reservoir before starting the car, or will the system get fluid thru the new radiator without a problem? I'm worried about surging.
Don, I appreciate the offer, but with the lack of a compressor I'm not sure it would work out. I might just flat bed the car to my tech. They are going to have to do a corner balance anyways. Many thanks though.
I actually had to drive the car for about a mile with an open cooling system, so I'm not too sure I'll be able to get the air out as easily as you Ben. BTW, did you put any coolant in the new reservoir before starting the car, or will the system get fluid thru the new radiator without a problem? I'm worried about surging.
Don, I appreciate the offer, but with the lack of a compressor I'm not sure it would work out. I might just flat bed the car to my tech. They are going to have to do a corner balance anyways. Many thanks though.
#10
I've never had a problem with filling up the radiator, overflow and then driving it hard enough to open the thermostat...then fill up the overflow again. Why would the porsche be different then a dozen other models?
#11
Ryan, go to renntech.org, there is a diy for the third radiator install on a 996, he explains the process in detail. As I recall you fill it up as much as you can with the overflow resevoir open, when the thermostat opens the level drops and you add more. Then you leave the vent open on the overflow for a few days. Ths will get most of the air but you may still need to bring it in for a proper bleed.
#15
I had zero issues with this when I replaced my center radiator last summer... Thought I did a DIY on "burping" the system...
Bottom line is to get the rear at about 45 degrees up in the air from the front. Then flip the metal barb on the blue cap to the vertical position. Remove the BLACK radiator cap. Start the car with the heater turned to its highest setting. This will allow the car to reach opperating temps quicker, and allow the T-stat to open up. Let the car run and get up to operating temps. Keep an eye on the reservoir and add fluid when the level drops (and it will). Once it gets up to 180 degrees, put the cap on it and let the car continue to run for about five minutes. Confirm the fans on the front corners are coming on and the coolant is circulating.
Once you've done that, you should be A-OK to shut it down, let it cool, and then crack the cap to check the level.
Mike
Bottom line is to get the rear at about 45 degrees up in the air from the front. Then flip the metal barb on the blue cap to the vertical position. Remove the BLACK radiator cap. Start the car with the heater turned to its highest setting. This will allow the car to reach opperating temps quicker, and allow the T-stat to open up. Let the car run and get up to operating temps. Keep an eye on the reservoir and add fluid when the level drops (and it will). Once it gets up to 180 degrees, put the cap on it and let the car continue to run for about five minutes. Confirm the fans on the front corners are coming on and the coolant is circulating.
Once you've done that, you should be A-OK to shut it down, let it cool, and then crack the cap to check the level.
Mike
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