My indie is recommending a GT2 clutch for pending HP gains via an 18G upgrade. Is this a viable contender compared to say Kevin's setup and other OEM options?


Cheers,

J

 

Yes. Do some searching on the tt clutch SYSTEM and you'll know why. The whole hydraulic design..well...sucks...not to mention the rash of broken throw out bearings which is a HUGE pain in the *** where you basically take the engine out of the car to replace a $40 part. [although in fairness I don't think anyone knows whey these are failing...would be nice to hear some opinions]

 

Pay $1K more and get sachs motorsports with LWFW, you will gain up to 20-30HP.

 

^^^+1. You'll just have to learn how to drive it again...
LWFW is tricky, if you've never had one.
Once you get it, you're golden.

 

Seems to me that the LWW is the one of the most contested black and white issues on the board. Either you love it or hate it. The only way I would consider this option is to go and drive (& listen) to one first.

J

 

That is absolutely the best idea. It revs noticably quicker and is noticably louder too.

 

Only louder at idle for me wiht the cluth pedal up. Otherwise (moving) not different at all.

If you are an RS kind of person, it is for you. I have one and love it. Set points and shifting style are more critical...if you are not fast at shifting, it will get you....woke me up in a hurry for 5 minutes when I first got it. Had it 2 years now. No issues. On road or track.

I posted a video on the noise under jcbmemphis way back on youtube. Search for that name.

On the OP topic:

GT2 clutch...I think they mean the evo system used to dump the slave/accumulator excuse for a system. I did that too...as the slave/accumulator for me was going up again....it makes the clutch harder to press, per Stephen Kaspar at Imagine Auto (my source of the kit), just like a gt3. It turns the clutch action into a surgically precise one rather than the vague one from the factory. Stock is not too bad until you try this...then you cannot go back. Sort of like turbochargers for a NA 996 driver....you don't "need" them until you get in a turbo.....same for me at least...I am that happy with the clutch uptake. It is harder mind you....not a wimpy thing to do.

I am scared when I realize I started out 2 years ago here with a stock car and now my car feels more gt3rs than not....funny sort of.

Love the car.

Jeff

 

Along those lines any one up for a LWFW 'show and tell' in LA? I'll buy the coffee.


Cheers,

J

 

I'll caution you...

I did the "GT2 clutch" and it didn't work out so well...

First one slipped...from day one.

Second one slipped...Within 10 miles.

Third one was modified per UMW's directions to the INDY to contact clutchmasters for the REAL clutch mod...

Don't just do the "GT2 clutch". It isn't the "upgrade" everyone claims.

Mike

 

Good to know Mikelly........I suspected it was a little more hype than fact as far as a suitable 550WHP solution.


Cheers,

J

 

Mike is correct - you need the upgraded "999" pressure plate PLUS the clutchmasters modification to hold 18G power. The GT2 uses an unsprung disc vs. the turbo, which is a sprung disc - the GT2 is a lighter disc and has no moving parts. However, you can not use the GT2 disc with a LWFW, it will be very tough to drive. The OEM GT2 clutch is an OEM flywheel with the one piece disc and comes from the factory "non-assisted".

The GT2 non-assist conversion is an additional part of the complete "GT2 clutch set-up" and while very good for driving...it will not hold any more power without the pressure plate upgrade.

One more thing - if you are going the GT2 disc route (unsprung), Sachs makes a motorsport version of that disc that offers increased holding characteristics. That is the one you should get.

 

Thanks John...the questions got me confused.

Two parts:

The disc: listen to John and Mikelly. I used a UMW part which is a sachs unit spec'd by Kevin (it may be exactly what John is using, I don't know, probably very much like the other good ones. It works, period. I put a LWFW in at the same time as it meant no extra labor and was suggested by Kevin as a great performance mod after we discussed me and my needs for an hour or so.

The pedal/engagment: brake fluid single cylinder that is harder to push down (dot 4 fluid) is the gt2 verison and Evo makes the conversion kit. Pentosin is used in the standard kit that comes in the car from the factory along with an accumulator (fails a bit, T2 has put 4 or 5 in in his 200k mile car...so not that often) and slave cylinder. I was on my second accumulator at 32k miles and just had had enough. I did the mod primarilly to be done with the pentosin set up.


jeff

 

Mine is actually the sprung version, and was recommended by Kevin at UMW, at no profit to him. It has the Clutchmasters carbon/kevlar "stuff" on it!

The GT2 Hydraulic clutch components conversion is one HUGE mistake I made when the mechanic was doing my clutch parts instal. Don't make the same mistake. Pony up the extra $1000 and be done with it!

Mike

 

The pressure plate requirements and GT2 non-assist vs. hydraulically assisted aspect are the same on both the LWFW and the DMFW set-ups. What differs is the disc. If you use the OEM flywheel you should use the unsprung or one-piece disc, as it is lighter and works great. If you choose to go with the LWFW, then you use the sprung disc, as the unsprung is too abrupt with the LWFW. I am fairly certain that Sachs makes the same upgraded motorsports disc available in both sprung and unspung versions, so it is just a matter of choosing the proper disc for the flywheel you will be using.

 

Bottom paragraph of what John said, this is exactly what I mean.