Before starting this thread, I've done multiple searches and even asked questions in other threads, but I still have some unanswered questions.

Here's what I think I know so far: (picked up in this forum, Rennlist, and face to face conversations with at least 4 different Porsche techs)

1. My 996 GT2 basically has a factory de-tuned ECU which, if properly modified, can give me between 80-100 more RWHP.
2. My stock GT2 is around 480 HP with a few more HP's for the GMG exhaust.
3. My stock GT2 is a real handful as is.
4. At my age (46), I'm not out to star in episode 10 of "The Fast and the Furious"
5. However, I do appreciate engineering, and love to know that if I want to launch myself into orbit, I can.
6. Some ECU flashes can be bad, and take away needed engine safeguards.
7. I will be getting an ECU flash, but I do not in any way want to sacrifice mechanical safety or reliability, and would rather have a more conservative flash than a more powerful one which may lead to problems.

Here are my questions:

A. Do all flashes require the physical modification or replacement of one or more computer boards within the ECU?

B. If there is physical alteration of the ECU, is it even called a "flash"?

C. Are there flashes which are just software which can be uploaded into the ECU without any "chip" swapping?

D. Is it true that the stock ECU cannot be "hacked" because Porsche has "write-protected" it and therefore a new "chip" is always necessary?

E. Is it true that flashes which use "air-fuel" modifications rather than just plain boost increases are more sophisticated?

F. Which software or computer company actually developed the current stock Porsche ECU program? Is it Bosch?

Thanks guys.

 

a: the flashes are a software reprograming
there is no welding or soldering involed. you might have to ship your ECU out, or you can go to your local shop and have them flash you car via the obd2 port. the actual flashing process is for about 2 minutes.

b:there no physical alteration, its all in the software.

c:yes, thats how all of the current upgrades are...

d: not true at all .. we call it a chip because many of us came from other cars that had to have a physical chip intalled.. there is no actual "chip" ....

e:they adjust everyting from air fuel, to boost, to timing, specific to octane etc...

f: porsche uses a bosch motronic engine control unit, when the car is chipped, the factory bosh unit still controls SOME parameters..



as far as reliability, i have the UMW software... its not the cheapest, but i beat the hell out of my car and i havent had a single engine problem


by the way, just remember that with a chip and a good exhaust, you will need to do wastegates and diverter valves. just remember you do not have traction control
the car will be a handful and it will require a certain finess of the throttle.. especially going around a turn because power does NOT come on smooth..

with the added power, i would suggest maybe looking into a better / wider set of tires ..
you can fit 335s on the back of a gt2 without any rubbing

 

btw, its not that the GT2 is a handful.. its that a lot of people
a: depend on electronic safety aids to save them in a sticky situation
b: some drivers dont understand how to drive a gt2, how to take a turn, how to modulate power etc etc


i would suggest that you take a one day driving course by a race car driver, or racing instructor who specializes in porsches so you can understand the physics involved.. you own the best 911 ever made.. so i would imagine you would want to take full advantage of that



i remember the first day i got my car, i thought driving a porsche was like driving my audi, and i was having some fun on a backroad, slammed the gas around a corner, and the car completey spun around me....

these cars require a different mindset and a certain level of discipline... i would say the gt2 requires a bit more focus aswell... but in no way are they a handful unless your suspension is shot or not calibrated according to your hp, and if your tires are worn/****ty

 

also (sorry for the multiple replies)
engine failure isnt always from the chip itself...
make sure your wastegates are installed and ADJUSTED properly
make sure you have no boost leaks, make sure your spark plugs are good, and gapped at the proper measurements for YOUR application

make sure your injectors are clean, that your coil packs are working, and probably the most imporant thing.. make sure you run GOOD GAS

 

Agree with Steve...would add that a good tune for your needs would give you more torgue where you can use it..faster spool up, less lag...and no loss of driveability at all. I also have a UMW tune and it meets the above very well. I know that my UMW tune does not short cut any of the safety in the original software. Suspension is something you need to address if you up the performance. I have not changed my wastegates...but I am holding 1.2 bar boost so I'm worried about messing with it. Did do DVs. Also my car is an X50/K24 turbo so very close to your stock set up.

 

G-

Call Kevin at UMW.... He has a hand held flask loader that you can do yourself- return to stock if you want, a regular performance file for normal gas or add a 100+ octane race file. No ECU shipping, no soldering, simple. And conservative (in terms of engine protection).

A

PS I have the same hardware as you, and dublin^^...I did do the wastegate mod- not necessary, but clearly a benefit.

 

I also have the UMW flash. The flash loader works in about 30 seconds in my car. Never had any problems. I definitely makes a big difference in torque. Go for it. Steve is right about the discipline. This car can get you into trouble very quickly if you are acting stupid.

 

I agree, and am happy with my the conservativeness of my UMW K16 tune. While conservative, it has outperformed all 'stock K16' programs I have come across.

Same thing happened to me. I remember thinking I was safe in the rain, like in my Audi S4. WRONG. Spunout across 5 lanes of traffic in the rain.

I'd go with UMW considering the options you are looking for. Sounds like Kevin is right up your alley.

 

Thanks for all the responses. Special thanks to Steve for taking the time and making so much effort to try and educate me. I will definitely consider all of your comments, and plan to get in touch with Kevin at UMW. The Flash loader sounds like a great idea.

As for the nature of the GT2, I have put 900 miles on the car in the 40 or so days I have had it. I am very well aware of my own limitations, and everything I have done so far with the car which may be considered "extracurricular" has been in a straight line. Even so, there is sometimes serious torque steer which I have to be careful with.

(It's important to know that the streets around Vegas are partly to blame. Because we don't really get any noticeable rain, the oil builds up to the point where some streets are literally "slippery". This factor has exaggerated the squirrly nature of the car and has actually come in handy, sort of like a "control clinic" whenever I take the car out.)

The suspension was set up at GMG before I took the car home, so there are no issues in that respect, although I fully understand the need to address the suspension further if I add power.

Overall, I'm very conservative in my street driving and don't get involved in street racing or "demonstrations of speed" (unless anything with "AMG", which seems to be every MB nowadays, tries some funny stuff, then a short and quick spanking may be in order)

But I will heed all of the well intentioned advice regarding my 2. I guess my best protection is just plain common sense and moderation.

What should the upgraded wastegates and diverter valves cost me with install?

 

IMHO the problem with the GT2's is the way power is delivered. If you do the reflash it gets worse. One big kick in the but around 4,500-5,200 RPM's. The reason for this has to do with the size of the compressor on the K24. If you upgrade the compressor to a 18g or similar size you will not only find better top end but the entire power band becomes flatter.

Food for thought as you pursue your goals. Another option is to use a AVCR boost controller and bring the boost in slower in the 4k-5k range.

Based on your comments I don't expect you to find any of the above approaches appealing. Keep it in mind for the future though as tastes do change with time in the saddle.

Also consider the EPL flash. Tony has years of experance that most others don't.

 

God, the GT2 is such an a amazing car!

 

2nd this....give Tony a call too....a custom tune could be what you're looking for...conservative additional power. I believe EPL has a dealer in Vegas so you would have local support for the tune.