Mikelly, "What's interesting is the fact that the fender to ground height (center of the fenderwell) was reduced by 10MM rear and 12mm front when using the aggressive alignment specs."

Could you post your current ride heights as measured from the fender? This would be helpful to me as a comparison to my pss10 setting for street. Thanks

 

What sway bars should I upgrade to?

 

Need more information like what you do with the car and what your plans are. There are several options.

 

a great thread, keep it going.

While I took the "leap" and purchased everything for my C2 and cannot give you an opinion on individual parts. The sum of those parts completely transformed my car into a track beast. The key is setup, with so much adjustability you really need a professional with race experience to fully extract the potential of the car.

Here is my setup:
Moton CS
Eibach Springs/helpers
Mode Pillow ball mounts
H&R Sways
CPT Drop links
CPT Upper rear Control Arms
CPT Adjustable Toe Links
CPT Locking plates

Going to replace the bushings this month

 

Larry, I know who you run with, and in what group... You'll likely get moved into White at some point this year, based on how you are progressing.

You have a few choices, but the two most common are the GT3 Bars and the H&R Bars. It's as important to upgrade the droplinks as it is the bars, as the stock OEM drop links do break.

You'll probably want to set them up neutral until you are used to them. Once you get to the track and start playing, You'll be able to move the front to the softest position to help dial out the understeer somewhat.

I run mine medium stiff on the rear and full soft up front and that has been a good balance!

Mike

 

Mike,
Great writeup as usual. Your time and knowledge has been helpful to me. I did not know the springs and valving was different on the euro version of the pss9. I do have the euro version that I got from carnwall. I have front and rear gt3 bars with trg droplinks front and rear, trg toelinks, bars on second softest up front and full stiff in rear. I only do a couple of DE events a year but the car handles much better than before the droplinks and front bar were added. I ran at Road Atlanta with same bar settings mentioned and 3 front and 2 rear settings on shocks and then changed to full stiff shock settings all around for a couple of sessions and the 2 hour ride home. Handling was much flatter but it is a bit stiff and rattle prone for interior on street. My car is a tip with UMW zc 16/24 5bar and IC's. Would you suggest motor mounts and front diff mount. Also any other dogbones etc? Car is mostly driven on street and handles well but suggestions or experience is appreciated. Thanks again for the time you have put in this thread. Oh Yeah, that Z of yours looks like a monster!!!

 

I DE the car and some street driving.

 

Silver, I'd think hard about the motor mounts... The Blues are stiffer than the blacks *(If you go with WEVO mounts) and it really depends on how you prefer the car to handle... if you do the Blacks, they're still a lot more firm than the OEM stock mounts.

Mike

 

Great thread Mike, this info applies to the 997TT as well. Currently my car is setup with HR lowering springs and a GT2 rear bar. I have about 10 years track experience but lately I track it only about 6-8 weekends per year in the white run group. No real complaints about the car at the track. The car is undergoing a significant power upgrade soon and I'm thinking about installing a set of Bilstein B16 (PASM version of the PSS10) while it's at the shop.
Here's the rub, I need to raise it up a bit to clear my drive way. It scrapes waaay too much now, and it adversely affects the DD usage of the car IMO. My options are go back to stock springs or the Bilsteins ( at stock or close ride ht) as I mentioned. Any thoughts?

 

Doug, I'd call the guys at Bilstein and chat with them about your needs. Just make sure you get the right spring for the balance of the car at that ride height requirement. With the car raised higher, the "PMI" is going to be increased. You can offset some of this with shock setting, some with sway bar setting and some with spring rate increases... When you raise the mass higher, and change the roll center, you need to compensate... These three areas are where a suspension engineer will likely focus on.

Mike

 

[quote=Mikelly;2292916]Larry, I know who you run with, and in what group... You'll likely get moved into White at some point this year, based on how you are progressing.

You have a few choices, but the two most common are the GT3 Bars and the H&R Bars. It's as important to upgrade the droplinks as it is the bars, as the stock OEM drop links do break.

You'll probably want to set them up neutral until you are used to them. Once you get to the track and start playing, You'll be able to move the front to the softest position to help dial out the understeer somewhat.

I run mine medium stiff on the rear and full soft up front and that has been a good balance!

Mike,

Are you running H&R's? I just installed H&R's and will probably start w/ medium on the rear, soft on the front.

 

Yup, that's what worked with my setup and worked well... I have left it like that for street use and haven't noticed any adverse issues!

Mike

 

Very nice, thanks for the info!

 

I heard KW make a motorized version of their shock where you can raise and lower electrically from the cab (not using bladders, 8 - 10k)

 

I got a ride in Mike's car yesterday and just wanted to say that the re-valved PSS9's are a very nice upgrade. Mike has been talking about this for awhile now, and after riding in his car, I can attest to the major difference. I have off the shelf PSS9's on my car at the moment and his were way better. First, I couldn't believe how smooth they were. Second, his car felt much more planted than mine does. And third, even though Mike's car is set at GT2 height, there was no hint of hitting the bump stops. This is a very good upgrade for anyone that has PSS9's.