Congrats to Titan, those are strong numbers, indeed. Let me know what tq level and rpm the rods give out, so I can speed up my development process j/k

The throttle blade reduction is there as a failsafe as Wes mentioned. I have output a signal from the standalone to simulate the signal from the stock map sensor, and limited it by voltage. This makes the stock ecu think that it is not seeing an overboost condition as I have taken care of that measure of safety in the standalone itself. Incidentally, I have output a signal to simulate the stock MAF signal as well. "What does this mean", you might ask? I'll tell ya It has effectively eliminated any lights from being present on the dash, as well as keeping the throttle blade from closing when and if it would see an "overboost" condition Making the MAP sensor and MAF sensor jive together with no quantitative data from my own car was a big mistake on my part. I had to rely on Powell, Husam, and basupra for the data, and that only went so far. The rest of it, I had to figure out by trial and error.

As far as the emissions codes go.... it is highly illegal to modify the output of the stock ecu to trick the emissions test.

That said, if the ecu wants to output the correct signals on it's own, then great. One of the reasons I left everything in place was to have the ability to pass emissions, and if I put the cats back on the car, there is no doubt in my mind I can do so. Sniffer and plug in....at least here in Texas anyway(3 gas analyzer, not a 5 gas).

I will let you know that making everything match up to keep the stock ecu happy was no easy task. I had the standalone on the car a week after I bought it, but the stock ecu was still seeing the MAF and stock boost, so it was quite happy on its own. Once I removed everything and had to simulate the correct signals to the stock ecu, the migrain began. It wasn't happy until I got everything well within line(voltage wise).

Justin

 

Thanks Justin, we didn't get a chance to output the MAF signals yet as we ran out of time, but will likely do this when we get the car home from PR. For now we left the factory MAF plugged in and had Tony @ EPL re-write the code to correspnd. We don't have an emissions here in FL so I'm not to worried about that, not sure the AWE Straight pipes would pass anyway These types of setups defiantly aren't easy to get setup, and should not be taken as a replacement for a stock ecu re-flash unless you're truely dedicated to the car and have a tuner you trust.

We're more than happy to test the rods for you Justin We'll see how long these turbos stay on the car as I'm sure Nero wants to upgrade as he always does. At least now the car is setup so we can put a set of 30s on with no problem, for now I'll be happy to see if we can hit 140mph traps.

 

Wes, what was the SAE corrected RWHP? We all know about those STD inflated numbers! Regardless, great RWHP out of a light car!
Peter

 

Come on Matt, you need to be in a Porsche TT like your bro!

 

Congrats!! nice job, nice numbers and always someone cynical like Houston T.

 

Got a few hits at the track tonight, nothing to impressive. Now that we've gone RWD, the R compounds are not holding the extra power. 11.01@133 was the best pass on a detuned 1.3 bar boost. We're going to try and ship some MT Radials to PR so that we can do some more testing. The extra data is very nice as I can tell when the driver shifted late, when the boost comes on, and exactly how much boost we are making at any given point. Definately helped speed up the learning curve and track setup, but with only 4 passes tonight we've got a ways to go.

That being said I had the Gbox in on one of the runs, looks like she went 6.39 with 2 shifts. Again conservative boost in 3rd to keep from spinning so I'm quite impressed.

Peter I'll try and get the SAE numbers tomorrow, again I don't expect this will be our best dyno as it was hot as hell. It just happened to pop up on the screen during tuning and I was quite impressed.

 

Badass job guys get some tires and crank her up!

 

Wes,

I ran 10.65 @ 136 in my P-car at the 580-600 rwhp level on BFG DRs in RWD, so I think with traction at full boost you guys could see mid 140 traps. Good luck!

 

Yeah my goal is 140mph. Before we could just set the boost controller at X amount of boost and let her rip with AWD, now that we're RWD we've got to be a lot more concerned with the tires in the rear. The good new is with the Motec we can control the boost per RPM and Gear, last night we where running 1.0-1.1 boost in the lower gears and raising it as the tires hookup. The R Compounds definately where not happy last night, but I gave it a bunch of boost in 4th and was able to get the good 60-130. Once I can get traction to bring the boost in earlier the trap times should increase significantly and the ETs drop.

 

Wow what won't the Motec do! Can you have multiple different boost maps?

 

HAHAHAHA !! when I first saw the dynosheet I figured, oh boy wait til Peter see it.... nonetheless, great power! Light car?? come on Peter give Nero a break J/K

-Jesus

 

I'm slightly confused. I see lots of guys who go RWD it seems as it's lighter? I've also seen the two YouTube vids that show 996 and 997 in the snow, the 996 showing little front wheel spin and less control - the 997 doing better. The impression I've gotten is that the 996 doesn't use the front wheels much for power. But this post seems to indicate that it does make a big difference - good news IMO!

So what's the story?

Germeezy - ECUs these days often come with lots of programmable I/O. You can get pretty creative with it! Warning lights, switched boost, multiple fuels\supplies, meth spray, traction control, speed sensitive boost, lots of fun to be had!

 

I've figured out that the AWD on the 996 is not what you would call a true 4wd system. It is NOT like the Quattro or even the Subaru. As I understand it, it transfers 5-40% to the front as necessary. It seems "as necessary" means the faster you go the more AWD you get. I have gotten stuck in my driveway in about 2 inches of snow on flat ground. Highly overrated IMO. I bought the car as it was AWD, but have been considering going RWD for a long time, but can't commit, even though it is the easiest and cheapest (free) Mod as it frees up a small % of power and about 70lbs for a FULL removal.

 

Seems to help on launch though Viscous transfer right? Don't want to steer too off topic here but has anyone looked into modifying this? I have seen where some viscous rear diffs have been modded using different fluids to change behaviors. I guess I will see for myself soon enough, I too am looking for greater traction from the use of all wheels!

 

You would think an AWD car with all the weight in the back would make an awesome drag car...but no...I think most here say that the AWD is NO help at all at the drags. Didn't help me...