Anyone with some technical knowledge about our cars around that can lend some feedback to my question below?

I get this at low RPM usually when I'm coming to a stop and I put in the clutch and letting my foot off the gas. Is this normal or should I be concerned and have something checked out?

Thanks a lot.

Justin

 

Get the codes...give us your MY, model, any mods...It is quite possible it is the sender, but yes you should get it fixed.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. Here are the codes that I have. They are recurring every 100 miles or so except for P1349 which comes back almost immediately when checked on durametric, but does not set off the CEL on the dash.

The software the car is running is a custom EPL tune that has been on the car for just over 1000 miles.

Thanks.

Justin

 

OK...
P1349 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 – Below Limit
Possible fault cause
♦ Dirt in system
♦ Solenoid hydraulic valve mechanically blocked

P0171 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit
Possible fault cause
♦ Incorrect signal from MAF sensor
♦ Intake air system leaking
♦ Fuel pressure too low
♦ Volume supply of fuel pump too low
♦ Fuel injectors fouled
♦ PCV valve leaks
♦ Cap of oil filler neck not closed correctly or seal is damaged

Your misfires are bank 2 so either plugs, coil packs or intake leaks. When were your plugs last changed and what plugs are you running? With the tune you will run through plugs faster.

 

I thought it was recently by the previous owner, I might have misunderstood him though. He gave me the impression it was. I'll double check with him and see what he says.

Justin

 

Possibly an easy fix, but I would investigate further as I dont think low oil pressure is good, the owners man makes ref to oil press respectively to rpm, I dont remmember off the top my head nut I would get it checked out.

 

So I was thinking coil packs/plugs or leaks (although unlikely all from one bank..unless they all need changing.)...so also check the O2 sensor and connection for bank 2.

 

The correct test(as I recall) to determine if the Oil Pressure is within spec is to make sure that it is at least 5 bar at something like 5000 rpm. Pretty easy to test.

Moreso, I believe that particular CEL is related to the car almost stalling when you come to a stop and the rpms dip relatively low. I think the Oil Pressure at 400rpm drops to something like a bar which might trigger that particular CEL.

Justin

 

This is exactly what happens. Also, the pressure gauge does read 4 bar+ at 4000 rpm. The error codes still need to be handled, I am talking to my shop about them now. Before I forget to mention, car is a 2001, I will find out when the plugs/coils/etc were replaced and post back.

Anyone have any other suggestions?

Thanks,

Justin

 

P1349 can be check easily with Durametric. Go to "Drive link" and with the engine running at idle select "camshaft adjustment bank one" and after select start. The engine should be running rough or rumbling. If it does that mean the solenoid is working good and the system also is working good. For your misfire, you can also eliminate the fuel injection possibility by selecting one after the other the injection valve and select start after the engine should also be rumbling... Note: After a test don't forget to select stop before you start a new test.
P1349 is normally related to a solenoid 996 105 303 71 ($190.75). It can be replaced with the engine in place. (see pics) (but not an easy task....)
Misfiring can be so many things but of course plugs is the easiest to do first as mention previously ....

 

Thanks for the suggestions JP, just so I am clear with your instructions on checking P1349, once I start the test the engine should begin to rumble and run rough, if it does not change it is possibly the solenoid?

For the misfires, i should see the same type of indication for proper function, a rumbling from the engine?

A follow up question, I was told the misfires could be a result of the poor quality gas we have here in Oregon. I was thinking of trying one of the off the shelf ocatane boosters in my next couple tanks to see if there is any relation, I dont know how well those work or if it is a valid test or not. Can anyone tell me if those are first of all safe to use in these cars, and if so, what ones are effective? I know they are a ripoff, I dont mind if its going to help troubleshoot a problem. If that isnt a good solution, does anyone have any further suggestions?

Justin

 

First question: Yes it is a possibility but it also can be (worst) the variocam plus actuator part#996 105 051 73 ($822.75) need to remove the engine for replacement ;-(



Second question : Yes but Durametric will only test the injector function.

I never used any fuel ad-on, and have to admit a bit afraid....
J.P.

 

There is a good post on Renntech on that same subject (vario cam plus solenoid)http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...13&hl=solenoid

 

As per Loren on Renntech, in few cases the mounting bracket for the solenoid can break....

 

Thank you for all the tips and suggestions JP, I will run the test and see what I find this afternoon.

Justin