DIY pressure/boost leak test rig w/pics
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 613
From: Toronto
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He doesn't do flashes, he does custom tune on every car.
Yup!!! He is a good guy. We should be renting the track soon. I will keep you posted
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 213
From: Nashville, TN
Rep Power: 35
Can someone help clarify the procedure of what needs to be blocked off if testing is done at the throttle body?
I did a pressure test when I first got the car, installed new DV's & boost hoses and things were going pretty well. I took care of a couple of leaks, but always had a slight hissing when above 15psi. At 5psi it would hold steady, but I don't want "good enough". Now that I've read more I want to give it another go and I'm thinking there's a decent chance the check valve going coming from behind the TB and going to the drivers turbo may be the culprit.
Part number 996-110-135-70 #16 on this diagram:
When I go at it again, I'd like to test behind the throttle body.
So my assumptions are:
1)remove y-pipe & throttle body, make adapter plate to test pressure up to 20PSI
2)try to make a better seal on the oil filler cap with a rag or such
Questions:
Q 1) Does anything else need to be blocked off if doing it behind the throttle body plate? (assuming I try to tighten seal on Oil filler cap)
Q 2) What is the best way to jump the starter to turn the motor some if it's leaking through open valves, or is this even worth attempting?
Q 3a) If it is indeed the check valve mentioned, or one of the related check valves, whats the best way of testing / accessing to replace? I was planning on using the soapy water test to look for bubbles.
Q 3b) Do the DV need to be removed so you can even access view of it?
Q 3c) Does the motor mount bolts need to be lowered to access it?
I did a pressure test when I first got the car, installed new DV's & boost hoses and things were going pretty well. I took care of a couple of leaks, but always had a slight hissing when above 15psi. At 5psi it would hold steady, but I don't want "good enough". Now that I've read more I want to give it another go and I'm thinking there's a decent chance the check valve going coming from behind the TB and going to the drivers turbo may be the culprit.
Part number 996-110-135-70 #16 on this diagram:
When I go at it again, I'd like to test behind the throttle body.
So my assumptions are:
1)remove y-pipe & throttle body, make adapter plate to test pressure up to 20PSI
2)try to make a better seal on the oil filler cap with a rag or such
Questions:
Q 1) Does anything else need to be blocked off if doing it behind the throttle body plate? (assuming I try to tighten seal on Oil filler cap)
Q 2) What is the best way to jump the starter to turn the motor some if it's leaking through open valves, or is this even worth attempting?
Q 3a) If it is indeed the check valve mentioned, or one of the related check valves, whats the best way of testing / accessing to replace? I was planning on using the soapy water test to look for bubbles.
Q 3b) Do the DV need to be removed so you can even access view of it?
Q 3c) Does the motor mount bolts need to be lowered to access it?
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 734
From: NNJ
Rep Power: 66
The MAF is pre turbo, if you are testing from the turbo just block off the other turbo, look at the first post and how he did it.
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Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 215
From: Norway
Rep Power: 32
Can someone help clarify the procedure of what needs to be blocked off if testing is done at the throttle body?
Part number 996-110-135-70 #16 on this diagram:
When I go at it again, I'd like to test behind the throttle body.
So my assumptions are:
1)remove y-pipe & throttle body, make adapter plate to test pressure up to 20PSI
2)try to make a better seal on the oil filler cap with a rag or such
Questions:
Q 1) Does anything else need to be blocked off if doing it behind the throttle body plate? (assuming I try to tighten seal on Oil filler cap)
Q 2) What is the best way to jump the starter to turn the motor some if it's leaking through open valves, or is this even worth attempting?
Q 3a) If it is indeed the check valve mentioned, or one of the related check valves, whats the best way of testing / accessing to replace? I was planning on using the soapy water test to look for bubbles.
Q 3b) Do the DV need to be removed so you can even access view of it?
Q 3c) Does the motor mount bolts need to be lowered to access it?
Part number 996-110-135-70 #16 on this diagram:
When I go at it again, I'd like to test behind the throttle body.
So my assumptions are:
1)remove y-pipe & throttle body, make adapter plate to test pressure up to 20PSI
2)try to make a better seal on the oil filler cap with a rag or such
Questions:
Q 1) Does anything else need to be blocked off if doing it behind the throttle body plate? (assuming I try to tighten seal on Oil filler cap)
Q 2) What is the best way to jump the starter to turn the motor some if it's leaking through open valves, or is this even worth attempting?
Q 3a) If it is indeed the check valve mentioned, or one of the related check valves, whats the best way of testing / accessing to replace? I was planning on using the soapy water test to look for bubbles.
Q 3b) Do the DV need to be removed so you can even access view of it?
Q 3c) Does the motor mount bolts need to be lowered to access it?
Just remove the pipe sitting in front of the left side turbo and apply pressure, if you have air coming out of the pipe then it is the #16 valve for sure.
Put a jack under the engine, unscrew the two engine mount nuts as far as you can but still with all threads engaged.
Then you drop the engine carefully, this gives you enough room to access the #16 valve.
You will find it alot easier to remove with one of these
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Remot...308.4.2.WKqwwx
You will not see any bubles from the check valve, as it is supposed to block the air from the tb when you apply pressure, and suck air when you have vacuum.
So the one way valve when faulty is a two way valve.
Sorry my horrible explanation, but what im trying to say is, don't overcomplicate, loosen the hose in front of the turbo, if you have air there then it is for sure the #16valve that needs replacment.
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