I bought my GT2 with 1890 miles. Before taking it home I had GMG do a full fluid change out. My plan has been to change the oil myself every 3000 miles. I'm at 4790 miles and I had the time today so I took the plunge.

The tools I had to buy special were the oil filter housing "socket" and a huge 27mm wrench to hold and stabilize the oil tank while unscrewing the 19mm drain plug.

Since I will be changing the oil at short regular intervals, I decided not to use any expensive specialty oil (i.e. Motul). I used the standard 0-40W Mobil 1.

After talking to various techs, I decided not to drain the Turbos. I was told some of the turbo oil drains along with the rest of the oil and what's left is inconsequential considering the 9 quart fill and the fact that I'm changing the oil every 3000 miles.

There are two drain plugs. The engine case has a 15mm plug and the oil tank has a 19mm plug. The main thing to know is how the two areas drain. This is important. The engine case drain is wimpy, maybe 1/2 a quart. I was expecting more. On the other hand, when you unscrew the oil tank plug, get ready. I guess I can analogize it to an elephant with explosive diarrhea. Move your hand quick, drop the plug and worry about it later, and have a large enough catch basin which can hold at least 8 quarts. It's a fire hose! The best thing to use to catch the oil is probably a 5 gallon bucket. Other than this 1 1/2 inch thick pressurized oil rope which shoots out of the tank, the oil change is pretty standard. I let the car drain out for 30 minutes or so, replaced the drain plugs with new aluminum sealing washers I got at the dealer, and also put in a new filter element.

The filter housing retains about a cup or two of used oil. I didn't feel like cranking up my compressed air activated oil suction tank I use for my BMW oil changes, so I just soaked up the housing leftovers with some paper towels. problem solved. If you have a turkey baster type device, it will work also.

The engine case plug is torqued to 52 foot pounds. The oil tank plug is torqued to 44 foot pounds.

If you haven't tried it, it's not that bad. Once you overcome the urge to be like the little Dutch boy and try to plug the dike with your finger when that oil tank lets loose, it's worth it to save the cash and spend some quality time with your beautiful machine.

BEWARE, like me, you might find yourself spending a lot of time just looking up at the amazing engine with an open jawed stare.

 

Props dude.



A

PS Make sure the old lady doesn't catch you fondling the motor...

 

nice visual texts lol

 

YUP.....I learned about the tank the hard way the first time around as my catch can had a drain hole a size of a dime and didn't keep up with a flow....soaking up the major oil spill was fun....good thing no wildlife was harmed.... Now I use a nicely sized rubbermaid tub.

 

Why not do the turbos? The drain plugs are there for a reason, and it only takes about 2 minutes when you have the car up anyway. I got my car two months ago and when I did the first oil change, it looked like the turbo drain plugs had never been done before.

+1 to the tub, I will never try using a standard oil catch again!

On an off note, does anyone know the torque for the turbo plugs? Thanks

Tom

 

For sure I would have loved to do the turbos, but I hadn't purchased any replacement washers, which may or may not apply, and also I didn't know the torque specs. I plan to research all this in the next 3000 miles I'll do the turbos for sure.

Since you have done it already, are there crush washers to replace?

 

Thanks for the great advice, particularly on the drain pan since I'm sure I would have promptly used a standard one and created a huge mess to clean up.

 

Well im glad that you feel confident in doing that part of the maintenance. I unfortunately do not have enough time or patience for that, its just good to know that i wont have to spend 350.00 anymore getting mine done.Since were friends and all. lol

 

You have a talent for visual imagery. I enjoyed your write up and I'm sure, in time, the mental image of the elephant will fade lol.

 

Here's some real visual imagery. This is how I reacted when I opened the oil tank drain:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gNU3EAsMkU

 

They are single use crush washers. I ordered the 996 turbo oil change kit from suncoast, it included the 2 turbo washers, and the 2 washers for the oil/block, and the filter. It was cheap and got to my house fast.

Only a few oz of oil come from the turbos, and they use a large metric hex plug, make sure you have it inserted all the way, it engages very deep into the recess. I had to use my large torque wench to break them free. I had no idea what the torque was so i put them at 50lbs.

Tom

 

Good write up...

So, after all was said and done, what was the cost to you (including the oil)?

Do you know what the average Porsche dealer charges?

Just curious what the savings are.

 

Thanks for a great writeup...will do my soon...

 

Tom (TVERT):
Way too tight on the turbo drain plugs.

Here are the proper torques (from shop manual):
Crankcase - 52 ftlb
Oil Tank - 44 ftlb
Turbo Sumps - 22 ftlb
Filter Housing - 19 ftlb

In additon to the crush washers on each drain plug, there are 2 different O-rings in the filter housing that should be changed.

ColoradoSilver:
Cost for the filter, 4 crush washers and 2 O-rings was $15 last time I ordered from Sunset. 8 quarts of M1 will be about $50. So about $65 total.

 

I will correct them the next oil change, they were torqued WAY more then that when I loosened them. 20 lbs is nothing!
Thanks mdd!