CJV,
I'm an autocrosser and turbo lag kills. Could you give me some more info on "wrapping the headers and hot side turbo"?

 

What kind of information are you looking for? Manufacturers, what it does, how it works, where to buy????

 

My upsolute chip had the canned K16 program in it which obviously did not blend well with my custom Turbos from Kevin. My AFR's were in the mid-13s which wasn't good They were ok when I had the old K16s on there. Anyways, luckily Stephen's stuff worked wonders (ok ok I'll shim those waste gates some mo'!). I know that Upsolute has a program for K24s/GT1s which David (VA) has had great success with but obviously that wasn't going to work for my stuff My turbos have almost a 4mm difference and are supposed to flow a good bit more air.

I've gotta say many an hour was spent doing mine and I've opened it (I'll take a pic) and the soldering that Stephen/Todd/Andrew did is great. No chance of shorts etc.. I think that part of the job (install) very much depends on the individual and how much time he/she takes to do the "physical" part. I know Stephen's told me he takes hours on it- and I believe it. Of course if I was doing soldering on some PCs that I overclock I'd take 20minutes but since we're talking about a pricey (even if it's ghetto) car, I'm glad he takes as long as he takes. I'm sure it doesn't help him in terms of "volume" but as far as I know nobody has yet complained of any ECUs done and returned by Stephen.

My AFRs are nice and rich in the low 12s (Stephen said we could lean 'em out if I want) and the butt dyno approves. Also I don't have any boost cut at 1.4bar which is coolio.

PS Stephen even replaced that AMD chip with a new Intel one- ok that part was a lie.

 

Alex,

Great to hear that the car is running well and very strong. Any idea what kind of numbers you're running?

Next up...let's see round 2 with that black viper.

Im still trying to decide which turbos to go with?!?!?

 

Heya man,

Yeps it's running and runnin' well. It's funny now more than before I notice a significant difference between running the car during the day in hot weather vs at night in cooler. That must mean I've got a bigger power delta It's still work-in-progress. I have to fiddle with the waste gates and decide on anywhere from .38-.5bar in terms of shimming. I'm kind of scared to but it's going to have to be done. Also we may lean it out a little- not really sure I'm going to do that just for a few more HP tho. Honestly, the car feels plenty fast for me and all across the range seems very well balanced. The boost maps from GIAC do really kick **** as far as that stuff goes.

I'll take it to the track sometime next week and get some numbers for ya'.

Give Stephen a call on the turbos and he'll fill you in. He g0tz da' hook upZ. Since you have a 6 speed though, you can go bigger and badder...

PS Not sure if you ever saw round 1 with the Viper. I completely whopped it and there were flames coming outta the pipes. Sadly the Viper is no more... he ate a wall following us Porsche's on a mountain drive

 

Alex,

If you are noticing a difference between day and night then my guess would be your intercoolers do not have a high enough efficiency.

 

That thought had crossed my mind Chad, a good point. Based upon what Stephen said, he didn't think it was worth me doing a stock to GT2 intercooler swap and maybe going custom would be better. I had just never noticed that big of a difference from night and day when I had the old set up with stock K16s. Sigh, it never ends lol...

 

As soon as the rear bumper was off, my guy at Porsche said "If you wanna do something with ICs' now's the time..." My response was "let's just get these bad boys on etc...:

 

Yes CJV,

Now that I think about it, that is exactly what I did, I actually started to back the car out a half a second after I started it ... what do you suggest I do ....

 

Disconnect the negative side of the battery for twenty minutes. Then reconnect and run for fifteen minutes. You will have to re enter your PSM code on the radio, reset clock and roll windows down and up three times to reset everything. That will get rid of the code light. The car should run fine. Next time you are at the dealer have the codes pulled.

Note: If you want your motor to last a long time. Warm it up until your water temperature is at least 150 degrees. Then take it real easy for the next ten minutes. When your water temperature reaches 150 degrees your oil temperature is only about 75 degrees. It takes about ten minutes of easy driving for your oil temperature to reach 158 degrees. You do not want to push your motor until the oil temperature is at least 158 degrees.

 

cjv - are you suggesting idling the car in the garage for a few minutes until the water temp hits 150 degrees?? TIA for your reply.

 

Question,
If as advertised and stated that
Powerchips, Promotive, Upsolute, etc... can all be custom tuned to your car then whats the deal?
You do a base line dyno, give the info and start from there...
Back and forth a few times untill you hit the sweet spot
It isnt that expensive either. I to am a business owner that likes to keep myself honest by having options.
Mind you, Stage 4 is a consideration of mine also

 

alamein,

Sorry, I forgot to say to open the garage door first.

I warm my car up before I use it because I understand the effects of cold oil. I understand how long it takes to warm that oil to the proper temperature where it can do it's job. If you want to get it out of your garage sooner. Start it up, let it idle until the exhaust sound changes and then easily back it out just a little. Remember, after I attain 158 degree water temperature, it takes about ten minutes of easy driving for my oil to attain 158 degrees. If you want good life from you motor and turbo's, then you will warm them up before you push them.

I believe the reason the check engine light goes on is the kats are not warm and the O2 sensor picks up the overly rich reading which triggers the warning light.

 

It's highly unusual for GIAC distributors to resort to bashing someone elses product, Garrett Lim does what he does well, and does not sink to that level to sell product. It seems we are doing well enough in this model line to cause some backbiting. Addressing the prior post. I believe that the distributor in question was kind enough to meet the individual in question at a location app 80 miles away from his facility. For all of his efforts he is going to be bashed for not doing the work in a clean room environment or with lab tools? The method we use to solder the chip directly has far fewer failures than if a socket or encryption chip is used, it's also not blaringly obvious if the dealership decided to take a peak at the ECU either. Finally 70 refers to the rated speed of the chip, not the heat tolerance, 55's are rare in the ones I have done. Not necessary anyway, the processor is not that fast. So instead of showing weaknesses in our product, you have shown weaknesses in your stated abilities. I am sure you are capable of soldering a chip, but you are far from being an engineer. AS far as the lag that Msindi mentions, it's the first and only time I have heard of it, and we have done a bunch of them. The nature of the chip does not even alter low RPM operation, so he must have something with his car. As far as I know his car was in the shop for about 3 months anyway? When it was explained to him that we have nothing to do with LAG, he did not understand.
I would like to thank all of our clients for their support.

 

Rene,
I hardly think that my post was bashing your product. My problem is with the way the chip was handled and the swapping with the wrong chip. I also never stated I was an engineer. Thanks for confirming that. My issue is regardless of the condition, rooms, tools, miles, etc this type of end product is not acceptable in my eyes. It has nothing to do with performance nor whose product I sell and has everything to do with quality. GIAC is ultimately responsible for what I do and how I represent them, you are responsible for your resellers. If I did this to someone's ECU I would have received a phone call from Garrett or Andrew. They would be up here apologizing, not in a defensive mode. So while you may be upset that this has been brought to light and he traveled 80 miles to do it the bottom line is it gives no excuse for a job like this. Would you be pleased if this was yours? That excuse would be the same theory of twisting two wires together rather than using a proper connector or soldering it. Might work now, but what about later? Would you say that the soldering in this would have not caused a problem, maybe not now, right? You know as well as I do the slightest disruption to the board and the ECU will have a problem. I test every ECU in my own car before I send it out to avoid any issues. While things do happen you can ensure the basics are not an issue. If it takes 5 extra minutes to do it right then so be it.

As far as the events with Mansour, I have no idea. That is between you two. What I can tell you is I install about 50 aftermarket EFI systems a year. I tune them on the dyno and the street and the timing and fuel maps do have a direct relation to lag and spool times. So much more than WOT in life. It would be misleading to people to state other wise. I am not implying anything here, just providing info for the masses.


I appreciate you taking the time to stop by the board. It would be nice if more people such as yourself would come out to support the masses on a regular basis rather then only when an issue arises.