Blew my HEADGASKET :(
I don't get this comparison, the correct one would be why spend the money on a turbo instead of getting a GT2... People who buy turbo's and then venture into heavily modifying them for the track are people who like and are comfortable with the TT motor's characteristics/power and platform of the car. The GT3/RS has a different type of following.. IMO, and of course not saying this for everyone/every track driver, but the Turbo/GT2 to be driven FAST takes a WHOLE LOT MORE skill then to pilot around a GT3, unless of course you are taking the GT3 to a realm of over driving the car/your capability to get to that certain mark/lap time which wouldn't be consistent... But that's OT 

My 2001 996TT has now reached 65K miles with K24's. It initially had Evolution Motorsports GT 640 kit, but I detuned it slightly with German re-programming of the computer to run at 1.3 - 1.4 bars max., down from 1.5.
I recently had a little detionation under full power and then a "puffing" sound once per compression cycle. Check engine light did not come on, and there was no coolant loss. Oil pressure was not lost (high at idle if anything). We have not yet dropped the engine, but I suspect a head gasket failure. My mechanic will take it apart and evaluate what we are facing. I am hoping that the most parts can be saved and that we then can put it together. with stronger head bolts. Any advice is welcome.
I recently had a little detionation under full power and then a "puffing" sound once per compression cycle. Check engine light did not come on, and there was no coolant loss. Oil pressure was not lost (high at idle if anything). We have not yet dropped the engine, but I suspect a head gasket failure. My mechanic will take it apart and evaluate what we are facing. I am hoping that the most parts can be saved and that we then can put it together. with stronger head bolts. Any advice is welcome.
You are likely guiding me correctly on increasing the size of the injectors. Any suggestions?
I wasn't planning to do rods until reading the threads. It looks like one should check if any are bent.
The reason for originally lowering the boost was to protect the Tiptronic.
I wasn't planning to do rods until reading the threads. It looks like one should check if any are bent.
The reason for originally lowering the boost was to protect the Tiptronic.
How much power/boost can the raceware handle ? that vs. EVOMS 10mms ?
My engine build is waiting on hold bec the the machine shop i am using has a unique 12mm design(12 mm in the case -rest 10mm) (through ARP) and after waiting 6 weeks . (*I am on 3076s with supporting mods*)
thx
^^ correct. 10mm raceware studs. 12mm stud? why? it does nothing for clamp up. Please have the shop that its doing the work explain how a 12mm base with a 10mm stud give you more clamp up? you still cant go over the torque of the 10mm stud. Plus you are weakening the case. Now back to clamp up how does a 12mm stud with a reduced head nuts and skinny washers then boring out (weakening) the head to 12mm help clamp up? was your stock stud pulling out? Or was it the sub par for your power level stock stud stretching?
^^ correct. 10mm raceware studs. 12mm stud? why? it does nothing for clamp up. Please have the shop that its doing the work explain how a 12mm base with a 10mm stud give you more clamp up? you still cant go over the torque of the 10mm stud. Plus you are weakening the case. Now back to clamp up how does a 12mm stud with a reduced head nuts and skinny washers then boring out (weakening) the head to 12mm help clamp up? was your stock stud pulling out? Or was it the sub par for your power level stock stud stretching?
of blowing things up.. My car made 790 whp on 1.4 Bar .. on Todd's dyno (I know kinda happy
) ... but feels happy too
I often run the car on 1.7 and the car feels MUCH happier .. so I decided to throw some RODs in .. some 3.8 cylinders/pistons ... and need to clamp her down. And max out these 3076s (before I itch again
) Palett - I am going w/ EVOMS HG as they use the same HG both in their mild or wild setups.
TTDude - I think we have the same setup - except you are on E85 ..
What Raceware said -
Thanks for your RACEWARE inquiry.
We have numerous Porsche 997 TT customers producing in excess of 1000 HP with the RACEWARE Aerospace Quality head studs. They should work just fine for you as they have for our other customers. For maximum holding strength in the engine black you need to install the 12mm O.D. Timeserts to match the 10mm stud threads on the RACEWARE head stud kit.
All RACEWARE head stud kits are superior to other head stud kits because they are better engineered and manufactured. Other companies often make unsubstantiated performance claims for their fasteners but in actually customer use and independent lab testing, RACEWARE head stud kits perform where other highly advertised fasteners have failed time and time again. If you want the best Aerospace Quality engine fasteners for your Porsche 997 TT, there is only one choice – RACEWARE.
The Porsche 997 TT RACEWARE head stud kit features a precision centerless ground, Aerospace certified alloy steel stud with rolled threads after heat treat, CNC machined Billet, hardened head washers and Forged 12 point Aircraft Nuts with an anti-friction coating to insure accurate tensioning. There simply is no finer head stud kit available for the Porsche 997 engine than RACEWARE.
The Porsche 997 TT Head Stud Kit is $XXX.XX USD plus shipping. The Timeserts are $XX.XX for the set of (24). All items are in stock at the moment. If you would like to place a RACEWARE order we will need your complete delivery address for UPS/FEDEX and a daytime phone number where you can be reached. Then we will send you an electronic invoice via e-mail that can be paid online on a secure website. All credit cards are processed online on a secure server.
BTW, there is no such thing as a patented 12mm/10mm 997 head stud. That is just marketing hype.
Regards,
Randy Hubbard
RACEWARE Engineering LLC




