Blew my HEADGASKET :(
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For that matter so will the car that's a garage queen and hardly sees any driving at all. However not the topic of discussion.
I'd be slower in a GT3, and I have the same motor, I chose a Turbo because I wanted one, and that has yet to limit me on the track. Still not relative to the subject.
I'd be slower in a GT3, and I have the same motor, I chose a Turbo because I wanted one, and that has yet to limit me on the track. Still not relative to the subject.
Never said there was, I simply said I PERSONALLY wasn't interested in that, with which you seemed not to understand. Not once have I said that anyone else should do what I'm doing.
True longevity is not completely unknown, there are enough people with mild upgrades that have gone over 70-80-100k miles to know the motor is easily capable of handling whatever the stock (K16/K24) power ugrades can throw at them.
What's consistent is people with big hp having problems. What WAS consistent is very rare engine failures with basic upgrades. I'm saying those instances have increased greatly with all the pushing of the limits.
What's consistent is people with big hp having problems. What WAS consistent is very rare engine failures with basic upgrades. I'm saying those instances have increased greatly with all the pushing of the limits.
Not really, there are more 996tt's at the track events now than GT3's in many cases because of their affordability. The Turbo wasn't built directly for the track relatively speaking (to the GT3/GT3), but it's better suited than 95% of the other marquees out there.
Look around, you see TT builds for road racing all the time, they just get drowned out by all the 60-130, standling mile, I made 3000 hp threads.
I'd also think people would pick a better platform for drag racing as the TT naturally SUCKS at it, but us guys are stubborn.
I'd also think people would pick a better platform for drag racing as the TT naturally SUCKS at it, but us guys are stubborn.
I know a lot of effort, mods and money goes into making 996TTs dedicated road-course cars (suspension, brakes, interior, etc..)...but I can't think of a single person on here that has set their car up for drag racing. Hell, I only drag race my cars to get trap speeds to measure my real-world power.
If E.T. was important to me, I would use a totally different car. Just as I would if I were to get into road-racing.
But the fact is, failures are more prominent now than ever.
Last edited by Divexxtreme; Dec 18, 2009 at 05:23 PM.
I strongly agree.
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Short of torching your head, you shouldn't be able to "feel" anything. And if you torched your head, you really don't want to put your hand near there.. lol
Justin
Short of torching your head, you shouldn't be able to "feel" anything. And if you torched your head, you really don't want to put your hand near there.. lol
Justin
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It's relative in that you stated your application was road-racing. If that's the focus, a dedicated road-racing car would be what most people that have the means would choose. But if that's not what you want, so be it.
Have you been to a road course to make such a statement? There are dedicated road racing cars of all kinds, base 996's, Miata's, M5's, cadillacs, corvette's, Vipers. And the 996 TT isn't any less suited for it than any of those.
Most people choose whatever they already have, or which brand they like.
That won't fly.
I understand it quite well. I just didn't want anyone to be confused that 500-550 rwhp is the cutoff for safety and/or longevity. It definitely is not.
No one said it was, you jumped to conclusions. All I'm saying is for people to expect more information (oil tests, tear down results etc) before throwing all this power on their cars from the umpteen tuners that are here now.
And I'm telling you that the power in and of itself is not the issue. It's other things; like tunes, not using proper fuel, etc... There are guys out there making a lot of power ons stoc motors, who are doing it properly...that may easily go over 100k. Give it some time.
Torque can easily be the issue.
There are some cars that MAY make it, but they also MAY not. If that is security enough for you then have at it.
I can see that. But 996 GT3's sure don't seem very expensive these days. I guess it's all relative...
It's not relative, the 996TT is a formidable track weapon, you should have tried it so you could have seen for yourself.
Who on here has made a 996TT into a dedicated drag car? It's a serious question.
I know a lot of effort, mods and money goes into making 996TTs dedicated road-course cars (suspension, brakes, interior, etc..)...but I can't think of a single person on here that has set their car up for drag racing. Hell, I only drag race my cars to get trap speeds to measure my real-world power.
If E.T. was important to me, I would use a totally different car. Just as I would if I were to get into road-racing.
Have you been to a road course to make such a statement? There are dedicated road racing cars of all kinds, base 996's, Miata's, M5's, cadillacs, corvette's, Vipers. And the 996 TT isn't any less suited for it than any of those.
Most people choose whatever they already have, or which brand they like.
That won't fly.
I understand it quite well. I just didn't want anyone to be confused that 500-550 rwhp is the cutoff for safety and/or longevity. It definitely is not.
No one said it was, you jumped to conclusions. All I'm saying is for people to expect more information (oil tests, tear down results etc) before throwing all this power on their cars from the umpteen tuners that are here now.
And I'm telling you that the power in and of itself is not the issue. It's other things; like tunes, not using proper fuel, etc... There are guys out there making a lot of power ons stoc motors, who are doing it properly...that may easily go over 100k. Give it some time.
Torque can easily be the issue.
There are some cars that MAY make it, but they also MAY not. If that is security enough for you then have at it.
I can see that. But 996 GT3's sure don't seem very expensive these days. I guess it's all relative...
It's not relative, the 996TT is a formidable track weapon, you should have tried it so you could have seen for yourself.
Who on here has made a 996TT into a dedicated drag car? It's a serious question.
I know a lot of effort, mods and money goes into making 996TTs dedicated road-course cars (suspension, brakes, interior, etc..)...but I can't think of a single person on here that has set their car up for drag racing. Hell, I only drag race my cars to get trap speeds to measure my real-world power.
If E.T. was important to me, I would use a totally different car. Just as I would if I were to get into road-racing.
I can assure you a 996 TT with 20k in it is much more suitable on the track than a 996 TT with 1000 hp is suited for a drag strip or ANYTHING ELSE. You might as well just gave an elephant wings, there isn't a point whatsoever to that.
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No one said it was, you jumped to conclusions.
All I'm saying is for people to expect more information (oil tests, tear down results etc) before throwing all this power on their cars from the umpteen tuners that are here now.
Torque can easily be the issue.
It's not relative, the 996TT is a formidable track weapon, you should have tried it so you could have seen for yourself.
I can think of a lot of people that have put 100k into the motor of their 996 TT and tried to drag race it. Putting 1000 whp on a TT is much more questionable than trying to road race one when that's what they were designed around.
I can assure you a 996 TT with 20k in it is much more suitable on the track than a 996 TT with 1000 hp is suited for a drag strip or ANYTHING ELSE.
I'm out for the evening. I simply can't banter back and forth this long without getting tired. Maybe I need to practice in the GT-R threads like you do?
Good-night...
Last edited by Divexxtreme; Dec 18, 2009 at 06:04 PM.
It is possible to breach the head gasket where Don has stated and not have water being pushed. The short sides of the cylinder heads between the heads studs (top and bottom) have very little gasket material (width) between the combustion chamber and outer edge of the head. Between the chain housings and cylinder head between the head studs is a place that the head can breach without water being pushed out. If it occurred in this area, you would be 4" away from the water jacket openings (top and bottom).
As mentioned a leak-down test would quickly show the cylinder in breach.
As mentioned a leak-down test would quickly show the cylinder in breach.
Lets be realistic for a second. Even if it were leaking where you state (a different spot then I was told), it wouldn't take long for 1000F combustion gas to melt/damage the gasket "breaching" it even more.
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The gasket is destroyed. The cylinder liner is also damaged and is going to replacing. when you are able to feel combustion out of the side of the head gasket with your fingers (yes I felt it with my own hand) than there is no really need to do a leakdown. I will post pics of the gasket in question this weekend. And I am not blaming tuning behind this or methanol, I believe it is just a matter of weak headstuds stretching out over time. When the stock studs were removed one side of the motor they came out with just finger pressure and the other needed to be wrenched out.
The rods all seem to be in good condition. I do however want to put a set in for insurance purpsoses.
If anyone has an OEM cylinder liner (those of you with blown motors or 3.8 upgrades) please PM me. Thanks!
The rods all seem to be in good condition. I do however want to put a set in for insurance purpsoses.
If anyone has an OEM cylinder liner (those of you with blown motors or 3.8 upgrades) please PM me. Thanks!
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The gasket is destroyed. The cylinder liner is also damaged and is going to replacing. when you are able to feel combustion out of the side of the head gasket with your fingers (yes I felt it with my own hand) than there is no really need to do a leakdown. I will post pics of the gasket in question this weekend. And I am not blaming tuning behind this or methanol, I believe it is just a matter of weak headstuds stretching out over time. When the stock studs were removed one side of the motor they came out with just finger pressure and the other needed to be wrenched out.
The rods all seem to be in good condition. I do however want to put a set in for insurance purpsoses.
The rods all seem to be in good condition. I do however want to put a set in for insurance purpsoses.
Don, does your AEM meth kit have fail safes? USUALLY, detonation is what slaughters head gaskets. Now stretched or loose studs will too. (I'm guessing the finger tight side is what blew?)The tops of your pistons will tell the story. I'm sure our tunes are similar and my pistons look like new. Post pics when and if you can.
Last edited by ttboost; Dec 18, 2009 at 07:19 PM.
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Don, does your AEM meth kit have fail safes? USUALLY, detonation is what slaughters head gaskets. Now stretched or loose studs will too. (I'm guessing the finger tight side is what blew?)The tops of your pistons will tell the story. I'm sure our tunes are similar and my pistons look like new. Post pics when and if you can.
"All AEM Water/Methanol controllers include a Boost Safe feature. This feature allows users to retard timing or reduce boost via a ground output if the system runs out of fluid or detects a controller error, ensuring fail-safe operation of the engine whether the system is engaged or not. Critical safety features are integrated into the system to virtually eliminate any chance of failure, including an integral fluid level sensor in the reservoir, internal controller diagnostics and an LED dash light to warn of low fluid level or error codes (including short circuits."
I am not thinking this was the case of detonation but I could be wrong. I always watch my AF ratios on my Brockway and my boost levels. There were no signs of detonation on the pistons per the builder. I am going to visit the shop monday and take plenty of pics of the damage to clear things up. And I know it sounds unlikely that the gasket would leak with no coolant loss but the fact is it did. I have built several motors myself and have never seen this before either.
Last edited by dgreen78; Dec 18, 2009 at 07:40 PM.
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Yes, the AEM has failsafes
"All AEM Water/Methanol controllers include a Boost Safe feature. This feature allows users to retard timing or reduce boost via a ground output if the system runs out of fluid or detects a controller error, ensuring fail-safe operation of the engine whether the system is engaged or not. Critical safety features are integrated into the system to virtually eliminate any chance of failure, including an integral fluid level sensor in the reservoir, internal controller diagnostics and an LED dash light to warn of low fluid level or error codes (including short circuits."
I am not thinking this was the case of detonation but I could be wrong. I always watch my AF ratios on my Brockway and my boost levels. There were no signs of detonation on the pistons per the builder. I am going to visit the shop monday and take plenty of pics of the damage to clear things up. And I know it sounds unlikely that the gasket would leak with no coolant loss but the fact is it did. I have built several motors myself and have never seen this before either.
"All AEM Water/Methanol controllers include a Boost Safe feature. This feature allows users to retard timing or reduce boost via a ground output if the system runs out of fluid or detects a controller error, ensuring fail-safe operation of the engine whether the system is engaged or not. Critical safety features are integrated into the system to virtually eliminate any chance of failure, including an integral fluid level sensor in the reservoir, internal controller diagnostics and an LED dash light to warn of low fluid level or error codes (including short circuits."
I am not thinking this was the case of detonation but I could be wrong. I always watch my AF ratios on my Brockway and my boost levels. There were no signs of detonation on the pistons per the builder. I am going to visit the shop monday and take plenty of pics of the damage to clear things up. And I know it sounds unlikely that the gasket would leak with no coolant loss but the fact is it did. I have built several motors myself and have never seen this before either.
Keep us posted bud.
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The gasket is destroyed. The cylinder liner is also damaged and is going to replacing. when you are able to feel combustion out of the side of the head gasket with your fingers (yes I felt it with my own hand) than there is no really need to do a leakdown. I will post pics of the gasket in question this weekend. And I am not blaming tuning behind this or methanol, I believe it is just a matter of weak headstuds stretching out over time. When the stock studs were removed one side of the motor they came out with just finger pressure and the other needed to be wrenched out.
The rods all seem to be in good condition. I do however want to put a set in for insurance purpsoses.
If anyone has an OEM cylinder liner (those of you with blown motors or 3.8 upgrades) please PM me. Thanks!
The rods all seem to be in good condition. I do however want to put a set in for insurance purpsoses.
If anyone has an OEM cylinder liner (those of you with blown motors or 3.8 upgrades) please PM me. Thanks!
Good Luck
Robert
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No, the builder told me that the Evo studs are the stuff and no need to O-ring. I am hoping they perform like they are hyped up to be and dont have any issues down the road like the ARP studs have had.