Help, Big Fuel Leak!
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Judging by the gunk on the bottom of the motor (and the oil drips clearly visible), he's had an oil leak for some time...
But if he says its gas I'll believe him that its probably gas. C'mon, it doesn't evaporate THAT quick. Plenty of time to get out and take pics. Plus it looks like its cleaning off/eating though the oil sludge like any solvent would do. Going to have to dig from the top side to find it no matter what.
FWIW, Also looks like the oil has been attacking the water line seal (though there are 2 o-rings down inside that may still be fine.)
But if he says its gas I'll believe him that its probably gas. C'mon, it doesn't evaporate THAT quick. Plenty of time to get out and take pics. Plus it looks like its cleaning off/eating though the oil sludge like any solvent would do. Going to have to dig from the top side to find it no matter what.
FWIW, Also looks like the oil has been attacking the water line seal (though there are 2 o-rings down inside that may still be fine.)
thanks for the replies guys
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The inlet piping for your fuel filter is a snap lock fitting (with a oring) It is tucked up against the sound padding.
The other source would be the EDM rubber/teflon line from the fuel filter to your fuel rail connection. There is a pressure tap located on this line.
The other sources of fuel would be your fuel rails or the cross-over fuel line that connects both banks of rails.
Since this looks like a Bank 1 issue>> I would look at the fuel filter. As mentioned you can turn the key to the 1 o'clock position and you will energize the fuel pump.
Don't start the car for any reason. You can call me today 360.805-9066
The other source would be the EDM rubber/teflon line from the fuel filter to your fuel rail connection. There is a pressure tap located on this line.
The other sources of fuel would be your fuel rails or the cross-over fuel line that connects both banks of rails.
Since this looks like a Bank 1 issue>> I would look at the fuel filter. As mentioned you can turn the key to the 1 o'clock position and you will energize the fuel pump.
Don't start the car for any reason. You can call me today 360.805-9066
There are two small punctures on this hose where fuel is leaking out. It looks like is leaking out a tremendous amount since I can actually see the fuel "flowing" out of punctures...
I believe it's called the fuel return line? Looks like I will need tow it to a shop to fix this. I can't believe I've been driving around like this for 2000 miles. The previous owner gave me all his service docs and he complained about a strong fuel smell, but none of the Porsche techs detected any issue.
Last edited by legendr34; May 22, 2010 at 12:46 PM.
have that oil looking stuff checked out as well... maybe thats old and the fuel covered it.. but from the pic that looks like oil... spray it with brake clearer once your fuel is taken care of and see if it comes back...
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2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
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2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
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yea, I did that, the oil is really caked on there though. but I'm pretty sure there is no oil leak now, maybe from the past perhaps!
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Kevin, do you know if it's very difficult to replace this line?
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IMHO I think this line replacement doesn't require dropping the engine but instead lowering the engine. This seems to be line # 15 which is not too long and the other end of the fitting looks like located in the engine compartment. Be careful when you order the part because MY01 and the other MY looks different. If you look at the pics you will see the line running behind the alternator under the oil filter. I can see a couple of clamps. Probably not an easy job.... Here you will found the instruction to lower the engine from "rolfjahn" https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...tt-engine.html
Last edited by jpflip; May 23, 2010 at 08:41 AM.
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yikes, yea may be possible to do by lowering. but looks like part of the #15 hose is hard piping. Not going to be easy and lots of stuff has to come out. With the right tools, man hours to drop the engine's probably going to be less than lowering to get that stuff out. one way to lower the cost is spread the labor over other maintenance/preventative/mods...
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Thanks for the advice guys, thanks for the clear photos Jpflip!
I dropped my car off at the local dealer and they said the part was $170 and the labor was over $3000
Am I able to DIY dropping the entire engine?
I dropped my car off at the local dealer and they said the part was $170 and the labor was over $3000
Am I able to DIY dropping the entire engine?
Last edited by legendr34; May 25, 2010 at 06:30 PM.
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you'd need a car lift that allowed clearance to drop the engine + special tools ... and of course know how. Wouldn't recommend it unless you knew exactly what to do or someone that did to help. May be use this as an excuse to mod/maintain a bunch of other stuff? https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ssion-out.html
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